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| Yeah, that's why I like shooting my modern bow in a traditional way. It's a mix of natural insticts and precise olympic style form. You must be right, but how much should I shoot per week? I don't count it precisely, but it's surely over 500. Maybe I could do more, 600-700 if I gave up everything else... ![]() I think I should go out on the next weekend to fresh air, there will be a little 3D event nearby... I must hunt some gumbears, I am sick of indoor shooting now, but it's too cold here to shoot outdoors every day.![]() |
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nor will it effect the tiller as the limbs are still being drawn the same distance, so long as the brace hieght is correct and and the knock point is correct and bow hand does not change everything remains the same, you will get far more consistant shots with a consistant anchor. sight from the bow and not along the arrow | |||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Try to think in stringwalking! ![]() If you move your anchor point down under the chin, at the same distance, you will need a deeper crawl. And that messes up tiller. |
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| The first thing to strike me was the bow arm throwing the bow up a little on every shot. I timed your shots from settling to release; it is about 6 seconds. You were very steady as far as I could make out. I assumed you were pointing at the gold, but you say you are aiming below it. If you could release without throwing up the bow, I expect the arrows would land where you were pointing them, below the gold. Could you keep the aim below the gold and release from that position? Could you then adjust your fingers up the string to compensate and bring the arrows into the gold? It is possible that the bow arm lift is a way you have learnt(though not deliberately) to compensate for not being able to aim straight at the middle of the gold. |
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| That's a good idea, I will try that out on the weekend. And thanks for helping so much! ((My only problem with not aiming into the yellow, that what will I do in field archery, when I must shoot on different sized faces on different distances? And what will I do on a 3D event? I think it would be better (but harder work) to get on with aiming at the yellow.)) |
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| My thoughts on aiming below and not throwing the bow upwards were not geared to you shooting that way all the time, but to see if you could shoot without throwing the bow upwards. If you can aim low, keep on aim and let the arrows land where they were aimed, you could then move on to aiming at the yellow and letting them land naturally in the yellow without throwing the bow up.A two stage process. |
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| Finally managed to make a good string with the upgraded homemade jig for my new 68" 30# SF SHC limbs and tried them out. They are very comfortable to shoot, I think I can shoot them much better than my 34# W&Ws. I shot just 30-40 because most of the time I was playing around aligning the string to centre. Unfortunately, the arrows are grouping in the left blue-black now. I know nothing about tuning, but think they were stiff -ish for the W&W and now they are far-far stiff for the 4# weaker and much lower grade limbs..... The group seems good for me, I'm happy with that, but on the other side, I should rush now to buy some new arrows quickly. (I am invented to Budapest to shoot the Internet BB Championship on next weekend )Oh, and I am a bit more afraid of the greater distances with these limbs... ![]() |
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