retiring arrows from competition

[King Custard]

I think we've all heard how to retire arrows from a set that just don't want to group?....to use them for practice rather than competition?

I'm wondering , those of you that have done just that, How Many arrows is it that you have retired from a set...or how many 'spares' you have from one set?

I'll tell you why I'm curious.
I earlier today shot 12 dozen arrows, part of my new readiness for competition regime.....
and found three 'errant(?)' arrows from a new set of 12 ACE's...consistently finding 9's rather than 10's.at short range..numbers 4,6, and 8.

Now they have been previously nocktuned under guidance at a KG..and I have to admit I was tired going through all those shots to get 12 arrows nock tuned- so many of the later shots were .erm... doubtful.

Turning the nocks on these arrows at around 120 degrees at a time ( cos theyre fletched now) definitely changed their consistent hit-position.
Of these three arrows- none Want to group with the rest.

For sure- one has a small nick on the nock- which I'll change.
another , well I could have marked the fletching line slightly in the wrong place,
the last one looks perfect.

Seeing as I dont have the time right now to refletch (spinwings in different positions so I can get good clearance from these arrows with their nocks turned).......
I just got to wondering what the elite would say was acceptable 'won't group losses' from a 12 arrow set?
I'm sure it's not the case here that I have three dodgy arrows out of twelve, more likely that these three just need looking at and repositioning/replacing of nocks and vanes.....

But How Many arrows out of a set of 12 have you 'retired from competition?
or
How many sets of arrows would you possibly have to buy to get twelve match-winner arrows?

[WhitehartFB]

Did you know before you shot each arrow what it's number was and that it was not in the group from the ends before?

The best way to clock arrows is to shoot them plot them and do the analysis at home whilst watching the TV or in the club house after say 12 dozen. That way you do not influence the results, this is where target plot is a great help. Also I don't plot an arrow when I know I shot it really badly.

If I have shot the arrows bare shaft and they are flying ok, I usually conclude that it is the fletchings that are the problem and refletch before turning nocks.

[geoffretired]

I have retired arrows from a set because they wouldn't group, and for no visible reason, which always seems a let down.
One problem I have is knowing whether it's the nock or the shaft, or inserts if applicable. I tend to take the easy way out and use it for practice, but there was a time when I would try to eliminate the guilty feature.
I also have a second, and very different, difficulty with the retirement process.
Over the years I have noticed things like; the same arrow will come out of the quiver last; time after time in a session. One arrow will hit high almost every time in a session. Next session it's a different one doing something similar. So far, I have had to put this down to randomness.(don't think that's the correct word, but hope you see what I mean)
There are five varieties of Mingles. I pulled out a handful without taking much notice as I like them all. All five were the same variety. I did it again, only managed to grab four, but they were all the same too. A third grab collected only three but guess what? Now, what are the chances of that happening? Very small, but it did. And later, when the tin was almost empty, all the ones left were the same as each other.
Now, I arrange for my arrow numbers to be where I won't see them just by nocking them onto the string. That way, I hope to have less influence over any strange results.Knowing you are shooting an arrow that appears to be a rogue can increase the chances of it landing out of the group. I tend to like to blame the arrow rather than myself. Sometimes the arrow is guilty as charged; there have been miscarriages of justice too.

[buzz lite beer]

Some arrows won't group as they have large quantities of grease and industrial dirt inside the tubes, when cleaned I have found on many occasions they come back into the group. Sometimes these rogue arrows will group well at longer distances with the others so can be semi retired. changing nocks as you mentioned and also cutting a minuscule amount off the back of your arrows can help if the cut at the back of your arrows is slightly off square they can go anywhere, did this with my 1st set of X10's when could only get a group the size of a bin lid at 70m, cured it over night.

[geoffretired]

Buzz that's interesting and useful. I'm assuming arrows like acc's would have been cut square at the back and the unibushes fitted properly; or am I misguided there?

[buzz lite beer]

most arrows leaving the Easton factory are fine as they are, I assume that when the force is applied to the rear of the arrow if there a gap on one side of the tube between nock and shaft it will cause movement and flexing as it is "seated" as it is shot. Re cutting the back worked for me that time and that was the only instance I've had to resort to doing it, I very rarely get more than two flyer's in a set of Easton arrows and they are usually cured with nock rotation or nock replacement.

[King Custard]

Right- back home and getting my archery head on again....mmmmmmmm.......
I wonder if the tobacconist stocks 30inch pipecleaners?

Oh and yes my numbers are all underneath the arrow so I don't know what I'm shooting without specifically looking for it. I agree 'knowing' that 'this is the questionable arrow' does slant the outcome....just as much as someone calling " blue at three-o-clock" as you come to full draw (always good for a laugh!)
Ok lets check these three arrows out...

[buzz lite beer]

or you could use a loop of 30+ lb breaking strain fishing line and a very thin strip of cloth, push the loop through the tube till it emerges from the other end thread the strip of cloth through the loop and pull it back through, being very careful not to try and pull too much cloth down the tube you want it to be a snug fit on the inside the internal bore and no more.

[clickerati]

Originally Posted by buzz lite beer

or you could use a loop of 30+ lb breaking strain fishing line and a very thin strip of cloth, push the loop through the tube till it emerges from the other end thread the strip of cloth through the loop and pull it back through, being very careful not to try and pull too much cloth down the tube you want it to be a snug fit on the inside the internal bore and no more.

and be very patient, because this will test your fortitude!!

[Thunk]

Originally Posted by buzz lite beer

or you could use a loop of 30+ lb breaking strain fishing line and a very thin strip of cloth, push the loop through the tube till it emerges from the other end thread the strip of cloth through the loop and pull it back through, being very careful not to try and pull too much cloth down the tube you want it to be a snug fit on the inside the internal bore and no more.

Note to longbowmen - this doesn't work with wooden arrows!