Whats 25grains here or there

[Next Generation]

Hi, Ive begun to look into the point weights, mainly because im wanting to lower the draw weight on my bow a bit.

Im shooting 42lbs measured on an old spring bow scale and about 40lb on the easton bow scales, I'm shooting 29" long 520 ACE with the 59grain inserts with 36 grains screw in points.

I am thinking of going down to around 38lbs and I was just wondering if the added 25 grains of the heaviest break off point would make that much difference to the spine of the arrow. Since they are already according to the easton chart 1 spine out and if i where to go down further then they would be two spines out. I know some people say having a stiff arrow is better than a weak one but this is kinda ridiculous since i dont think i will be able to tune the arrows.

Any help really appritiated thanks.

[ASW1973]

25 grains is alot, and where normally i would say that point weight makes no odds to tuning in this case:1) it is alot more point weight and 2)it is alot further forward in the break offs than the longer point and insert.
the 520 will tune at 29 inches with a 100 break off at 38lbs just fine so no real need to waste effort of throwing another 20 grains down the range to 90m. these 520's have been week at your 40lbs and will be pretty much spot on at 38

[King Custard]

Originally Posted by Next Generation

Hi, Ive begun to look into the point weights, mainly because im wanting to lower the draw weight on my bow a bit.

Im shooting 42lbs measured on an old spring bow scale and about 40lb on the easton bow scales, I'm shooting 29" long 520 ACE with the 59grain inserts with 36 grains screw in points.

I am thinking of going down to around 38lbs and I was just wondering if the added 25 grains of the heaviest break off point would make that much difference to the spine of the arrow. Since they are already according to the easton chart 1 spine out and if i where to go down further then they would be two spines out. I know some people say having a stiff arrow is better than a weak one but this is kinda ridiculous since i dont think i will be able to tune the arrows.

Any help really appritiated thanks.

You want to drop 4lbs of draw weight yes?...and you understand what that will do to your sightmarks, of course you do.

Adding 25 grains to your arrow weight will give you another appreciable loss in your sightmarks at distance with a far less benefit gained from the 'weakenning of the arrow'
if you are going to use the exact same arrow forget proper bareshafting other than for nockpoint height!
---- slacken off spring tension to keep your overly stiff arrows grouping around middle -with some play still on the button if you know what I mean.
Buy or make a faster string and fit longer nocks to your arrows.
That's all you can do - and may well be enough.
Starting out with a spine that matches your bowweight at that given arrow length is eesential for 'proper bareshaft tuning'.....

But many achieve very good scores with completely the 'wrong arrows'

[Next Generation]

Thanks for the fast replies, so you reccomend the 100grain break off points whats the difference with those and me just changing the bulge point to the next one up in weight to get 100 grains? is it that the bulge points more wieght on the front?

I put 42lb for th spring bow scale king custard since i have found a difference between that and the easton bow scale saying its only 40lb. and the only reason they are a spine off now is i was shooting an even higher weight of 45-6lbs according to the easton one.

and thanks again

[King Custard]

if your arrows did indeed tune at 45/46lb coming down to 38 lb almost certainly dictates that you'll need another set of arrows DEPENDENT on how you wish to tune!
Tuning by walkback alone you might get away with just slacking off the spring in the button as I said before.
It would seem there is some underlying factor as to why you are dropping your poundage 8lbs...injury perhaps?....in which case I personally wouldn't want to cough up for a new set of arrows for a temporary situation....I'd shoot on a bad tune until full fitness returns.

If 38 lbs is to be your final drawweight, by all means buy the spine for 38lbs. But if you don't know yet where you're going to end up...thats up to you

Shooting an arrow that really spined well 8lbs above this is likely to cause all sorts of problems with clearance and maybe grouping and be unforgiving on your technique. Again you cant get an 8lb range out the the same arrow specs- not tuning 'properly'...in fact to even try to compensate for this kind of mismatch you are possibly going to have a 'peculiar' centershot position and a nearly bottoming out button.

No, adding a house brick to your pointweight isn't going to compensate viably, you'll need new arrows to tune 'properly'

[SLOWHAND]

Originally Posted by sp220

I have a question relating to point weight.

I have been shooting 46lb on fingers, 500 X10's with 120gn point at 29.5 inches including nock and point.

I will now be shooting 50lb on fingers, 450 X10's at 29" shaft only (no nock or point).

I was always under the impression I should just wack the whole point in there, but now I am thinking I should break off at least 10gn (according to spine chart).

Am I right in thinking that I should just shoot with the lightest point that I can as long as the arrows spine no problem to the bow? Because at the end of the day it is dead weight yes?

Sam

Just my opinion but I always shot my recurve with Aces with 120grn piles. Much better arrow flight and far less drift in the wind.

[ASW1973]

I re-iterate the 520's with 100 grain points will be tuning 38-40lbs so just forget it and shoot.
Sam you are so under spined that if you think they tune you are torquing the bow, 450 x10 at your draw length for 46lbs, 410 for 50lbs and some top archers have gone for sub- 400 spine on 50lbs at 29.5 inch arrows

[Next Generation]

The only reason i was thinking of going down a bit of weight is im still a junior and i keep getting told to put the weight down to stop injury later, which i can totally understand but i will have to leave it for the mo till i can get the money for some new limbs.

But thanks for all the info I just wasnt sure if the weight on the end would make that much difference. Since they shoot just fine now maybe slightly stiff with 95 grains on the end i will just leave them and stop thinking about things.

One last question though what bow do you think is closest to actual wieght since in the last 2-3 days I have had my bow weighed 3 times on different scales. the one at Quicks (Waterlooville) said 45-6lbs and thats a old scale likethe ones you see haning in super markets (i know this since Im saterday staff there and its where i normally get told to lower the weight) it measured 40 on an easton and 42 on a hand spring one as I said.

[Chris B]

Originally Posted by sp220

Really?

I didn't know that. I just go off the spine chart, which says 450's for my length of arrow at 50lb...

I don't know many archers who shoot this poundage, other than Collin geenes, and he also shoots 450's...

But I will still look into it if you are sure...

I also shoot around this poundage. Around 51# last time I used a good bow scale.
I use 570 ACEs at 28" w/ 120grn, and 570 ACEs at 28.5 w/ 105grn. These are the equivalent of 550 X10s.
I tried some X10s 500s, at 28.5", w/ 110grn. They worked ok..

ASW will probably say I'm also underspined, but it works, so f### it.

[Edit: ps. The main reason i was really impressed by Colin's 900cx is that his bow is actually the same poundage as mine, but it felt a little easier to hold. Also, if you are wondering how i can get over 50# out of a 44# pair of limbs and a 29" draw length ,with the limbs wound to the absolute min., the answer is simply that Samick are just crap at labelling their limbs properly! (they are a lovely pair of limbs otherwise)]

[Chris B]

yeah. if ever in doubt, go with the stiffer spine.