How Far Left/Right per Spine

[cestria]

Over the winter I've done OK and I'm very happy with the way I'm shooting my bow, I'm fairly confident that the bow shoots straight, certainly were I aim it.
But I’m now starting to think about the great outdoors, and the question is this.
I have two sets of ACE to try, some 520’s with snap offs and some 570’s with inserts. When I start shooting them, how far left or right of my aiming point would you say you would allow before you stop adjusting the sight and start thinking about adjusting the arrow or bow tune.
Or what would you say the horizontal deviation of two different spined arrows is normally.

[Bald Eagle]

You need to set your bow up centre shot initially, then shoot the arrows at about 30m and play with your button spring pressure.If they keep impacting left (right handed) no matter how much you take off your button, they are too stiff and right impacts, no matter what you put on your button, are too weak. Unless you have a lot of poundage on your fingers or long draw length, those arrows you have may be a bit heavy!

[King Custard]

Ideally you wouldn't adjust your sight very far atall...if atall.
If you adjust your sight so that it is no longer 'above the arrow'...or with the side of the aperture on bow center- then you are no longer shooting through the center of the bow... the further you move the aperture away from the correct point- the worse the problem becomes, the less effective the bow becomes...and the worse flight and score due to haphazzard releases or form.

It's far better to adjust spring tension to get the differently spined arrows to each group in the center. (This is assuming of course that you don't intend to bareshaft tune both sets of arrows- obviously you cant tune a bow fully/perfectly to shoot two sets of different spined arrows this way)

[cestria]

Originally Posted by King Custard

Ideally you wouldn't adjust your sight very far atall...if atall.
If you adjust your sight so that it is no longer 'above the arrow'...or with the side of the aperture on bow center- then you are no longer shooting through the center of the bow... the further you move the aperture away from the correct point- the worse the problem becomes, the less effective the bow becomes...and the worse flight and score due to haphazzard releases or form.

It's far better to adjust spring tension to get the differently spined arrows to each group in the center. (This is assuming of course that you don't intend to bareshaft tune both sets of arrows- obviously you cant tune a bow fully/perfectly to shoot two sets of different spined arrows this way)

I didn't intend to shoot two different spined arrows, but have both sets to choose from.
My thoughts were to try both at the first opportunity and see which was the closest to my current set-up before fine tuning.

[King Custard]

Yes, sorry I didn't make myself clear there.
Choosing which shafts are nearest to your current set is obviously easier...just see which set groups closest to your current set through your distances.

To see which has the capacity to group best for you, though is another matter...........a case of tuning your bow, and then group tuning, and plottng hits for each set of shafts is the only true way of testing one against the other.