Point weights

[easy]

I'm shooting a new set of ACE's 620's with 120 grain points, and i'm struggling to reach 80 yards. I was hoping that going up in poundage to 38lbs, and these arrows would get me to 100 yards comfortably.

My bow is well set up, the arrows are matched well with bare shafts hitting the group at 30m. The braceheight is well within the recommended range.

Last season i shot ACE 670's with 100 grains with 36lbs on my fingers and reached 80y much easier.

Is the combination of stiffer shaft and heavier points likely to make this much difference?

[Des]

Yes it will... i found last year that the extra 20gr lump made the arrows drop considerably after 60 yards, especially at a poundage lower than 40lbs. What is your draw length, are the arrows the same length as your previous set?

Try going back to 100gr.

[Kae]

When you say you've incresed your bow poundage, have you measured this against a reliable gauge? Just by buying heavier poundage limbs doesn't necessarily mean your poundage will increase.

Kae.

[easy]

Originally Posted by Kae

When you say you've incresed your bow poundage, have you measured this against a reliable gauge? Just by buying heavier poundage limbs doesn't necessarily mean your poundage will increase.

Kae.

I am pulling just over 38lbs, measured with an electronic Easton gauge. Last year i had 36.5lbs on my fingers. Draw length 27.5 on the button, arrows 29" the same as my previous set.

My sight marks up to 50 yards are pretty much the same, i'm just surprised that from 60 yards onwwards, the arrows drop so much.

[Chris B]

You shouldn't need that much point weight for your draw-weight & spine. If they are break-offs, you might (carefully) consider breaking them down to 110 grn.

since last season, I added 20 grains, but my 80 yard sightmark fell by about 9mm on the sight track =(

[wingate_52]

I shoot Navigators (unbarrelled ACE's according to some). I draw 27", at 45# and am ok with 100gn breakoffs at 100yds. 120 is probably too heavy. rather than brekoff a whole section of point, saw off a portion on 3 points, weigh them and shoot them. Repeat the cutting until you hit what you aim for, then repeat with the rest of the points.

[archer_thom]

You can get quite odd effects with point weight - a few years back I had 48lbs, ACE 470. I tried to use 120gns but they dropped massively by 50m, then with 110gns they flew quite well to 90m.

An engineer friend thinks that there may be a certain speed below which arrows appear to drop. Don't know if that's helpful.

[archer_thom]

Originally Posted by sp220

This is something I've thought about quite alot but don't really know where to go.

I currently use 120gn tungsten points on a 450 X10 shaft, 28.5 inches long, pulling around 49lb.

I am not so sure whether or not to break off to 110gn, as my sight marks could definately be better, but I am very hesitant to do this due to the cost of the points.

Probably anathema, but could you try the steel points just to see how they'd go?

[ASW1973]

as a recurve archer you do not need to go over 100 grain points untill you are in the 4XX spines. arrows should be selected and tuned by 1)point weight 2)spine 3) bow weight.

[King Custard]

Originally Posted by easy

I'm shooting a new set of ACE's 620's with 120 grain points, and i'm struggling to reach 80 yards. I was hoping that going up in poundage to 38lbs, and these arrows would get me to 100 yards comfortably.

My bow is well set up, the arrows are matched well with bare shafts hitting the group at 30m. The braceheight is well within the recommended range.

Last season i shot ACE 670's with 100 grains with 36lbs on my fingers and reached 80y much easier.

Is the combination of stiffer shaft and heavier points likely to make this much difference?

So far all great answers, nothing to argue with- but none of them helping very much, I'm sure you are still frustrated...you have good kit, tuned arrows and cant hit your damned target!

First thing above all others.......
Be CERTAIN that you are FULLy relaxed in your bow hand- that you are not pushing from the wrist..and tilting the bow downwards on release

THEN you have choices from here
Pull your sight extension in
Up your poundage- at your descretion
reduce string weight, different material or fewer strands for a faster arrow, remove excess servings
remove any limbsavers
go to the lower of the sweet spots in BH
Lighten point weight or shorten arrow- or remove any nock pins
raise tab ledge- or go to tab with ledge
Bareshaft at longer distance to show up if you can get away with lowering your nockpoint any
And retune.

In desparation if this leaves you well short still but you want shoot this set-up
NOTE:these are less orthodox 'fixes' and will create a debate among the forum, also these may influence your grouping significantly:
raise the arrow rest a smidgeon
lower the nock point- still allowing for good clearance and flight, but leaving bareshafts above the fletched group at 60 yards.
Increase the bottom tiller by 1mm

Adopt a high wrist, and change your grip thus lengthening your draw and finger poundage ( i wouldn't recommend this unless you are really desperate) and of course retune and re-learn your whole form from there.

Simplest 'cure'? - plain old lose point weight and retune- and shoot a stiff arrow unless you want to up your poundage -


PS I've found 38lbs matches a 27inch 720 ACE arrow at 100grains perfectly with a reasonably smooth release...are you sure you need 620's at your draw length?- is that why you've loaded them with 120gn points? 670's should be your arrow I reckon with 100 gn points