Hoyt Helix true center

[geoffretired]

Originally Posted by Whitehart

The key is that the limb tips are straight with the limbs and each other what the string does at the riser is not very important.

I think I follow that. I was using the string as a reference point. What I should have said is, if the string looks like it lines up down the centre of both limbs(at the same time), the gauge could then be used to check that the limb tips were pointing straight ahead. I follow that the limb may not be flat, and overlooked that. So the normal BH gauge would need the scale edge modified so it contacts the limbs only on the edges. I could imagine two little blocks that can slide along the scale. Slide to the required width apart, equal amounts on either side of the zero line. The blocks will then contact only the outer edges of the limbs.

[buzz lite beer]

To add something else for you to worry about, adjusting limb pockets to get the limb tips aligning centrally with the limb as mentioned in the J. Barrs set up method http://www.perrisarchery.co.uk/Perri...%2005%20Q4.pdf
Do it with a fully un-twisted and a bowstring with lots of twists in and you get very different observed results, the pressure from the twisted strings end loops can rotate the limb tips. (some limbs more than others)

[WhitehartFB]

Originally Posted by buzz lite beer

To add something else for you to worry about, adjusting limb pockets to get the limb tips aligning centrally with the limb as mentioned in the J. Barrs set up method http://www.perrisarchery.co.uk/Perri...%2005%20Q4.pdf
Do it with a fully un-twisted and a bowstring with lots of twists in and you get very different observed results, the pressure from the twisted strings end loops can rotate the limb tips. (some limbs more than others)

Tortional stability of limbs and tips is very variable from manufacturer to manufacturer but if you set the bow up correctly once you have drawn it up and come down everything should be in line as the string and loops settle.

TBH if after "settling in" that was still happening to my limbs I would be questioning why I was using them - as you have no idea what they are doing during the shot cycle and the limbs would clearly not be unrolling or closing up as they should.

Limb tips can be temporarily twisted just by stringing the bow, it is always a good idea to check that they are straight before shooting. If you know the bow has been set up straight then no major adjustments are needed, its just a simple case of a small twist to the top of the limb in the oposite direction.

[archer_thom]

I started reading this with the intention of learning how to do it properly, and having read this far I've decided to just go away and shoot it as it is. I think it was the mention of twisted strings that made me go "I just can't be bothered". I have immense respect for those who can.

[buzz lite beer]

Originally Posted by WhitehartFB

Tortional stability of limbs and tips is very variable from manufacturer to manufacturer but if you set the bow up correctly once you have drawn it up and come down everything should be in line as the string and loops settle.

TBH if after "settling in" that was still happening to my limbs I would be questioning why I was using them - as you have no idea what they are doing during the shot cycle and the limbs would clearly not be unrolling or closing up as they should.

What I was trying to get across, is that you will adjust your limb pockets to centralize the limb tips you are countering the string twist as well, so at full draw the loops are no longer inducing their twist and you will have limbs mis aligned while at full draw. TRY IT with a twisted string and untwisted the limb tips will be in different places, also on many bows I have seen there is a physical gap under one side of the loop and the other side is pressing firmly up against the limb.

[WhitehartFB]

Buzz I do understand what you are saying and it's a valid point, but if you set the limbs tips up properly they will always return straight strung or unstrung even if they are tortionally weak. I also agree that limbs tips may not be 100% straight after adjustment because of constraints on manufacturing verses cost and the accuracy/method of adjustment.

However, if the limb tips are not straight in the first place, but you have adjusted the string to run through the centre of the limb bolts as you draw the bow back the limb tip will continue to twist further out of line. Using the Beiter Bow Brace this twist can be clearly seen/measured getting worse at different draw lengths. Do the same with a bow set up as previously posted and there is no or very little twist.

Limb adjustment is there to iron out the fact that no riser is 100% straight not to sort out poorly made limbs.
As an aside a twisted limb is a twisted limb and cannot be straightened using the limb adjustment that’s not what it was designed for.

If you shoot a bow with twisted limb tips because of the way they are fixed to the riser the situation over time will only get worse and the limb/s will eventually take a permanent twist.

[buzz lite beer]

The reason behind my initial post on this thread, and most of the posts I make is that you can complicate things or you can simplify them. My reasoning is valid and the points raised can be tested and proved to be true, how much effect that has on joe average or ollie olympian is another issue. Also I may add and question (returning to what point straight?) or apparently straight as the case may be and how much does this impact on accuracy must be considered