centre serving

[King Custard]

see what happens when you get tied up....you miss the chance to be a hero!

Refer to Hodgelets pictures of an alternative way to finish off the serving- a spare bit of ( dont use serving-it's rough and too thick) strand material or doubled over waxed dental floss to create the extra drawing loop. In this way you can reuse the serving material...and a pencil or something is the exact way i pull on the draw-loop to avoid cutting into my fingers.
A tiny dab of superglue on the end of the serving ( not on the string material though) where it disappears into the main part of the serving should see it hold fast indefinitely. and trimming off the last spare bit of serving you've pulled through is FAR safer than burning it down.

Hopefully thats job done!

[Little Miss Purple]

If its served properly then superglue shouldn't be needed!!

[King Custard]

Originally Posted by grimsby archer

Good advice, except 30mBull already said "my knocking points are moving up and down the string"

Ah yes caught me.

If you havent got a note somewhere of the previous nocking point height- you really should have.......if the nock points are 'roaming' then a rough guess at where they should be will do- for later reapplying those nock points..

once the string is back in serviceable order- the only way to Really get the proper nock height is to bareshaft tune a little - Only as much as nock point though ( don't be scared, its really simple even first time).....

At a distance you are comfortably grouping your arrows a fairly tight group- perhaps 20 yards but not less, shoot an arrow or two that have no fletches (ie: bare shafts) and see where they hit in relation to the fletched group.

they should hit at the SAME HEIGHT on the boss ( dont worry about left or right) just the same height.

If you bare shaft is lower than the group of fletched- this indicates that the nock points are too high ( move them down a tad )...
If the bareshaft is higher than the group- then you points are too low.
with a little fiddling you'll get them spot on- at the same level.

What if you haven't got a clue where to put them to start with???:

Using a brace-height guage, clipped to the string and resting on your arrow rest.....attach the bottom nock point in a position so that the bottom of the arrow's nock itself will be around 3/8inch or 1/4 inch "Above level with the rest"- and attach the top nock in a position to allow the nock of the arrow to have just a little movement...so that you can just 'wiggle the arrow nock' . Half a mm is usually plenty.

[King Custard]

Originally Posted by Little Miss Purple

If its served properly then superglue shouldn't be needed!!

Totally agree- but this is the first try though remember!
Belt and braces reasoning- and the draw-loop method does not allow for last end of serving to be drawn back under much more than about 8 tight turns before it just 'gags' and sticks.
This game ( serving ) like many others isn't hindered by a little 'insurance'....it's no more 'overkill' than putting washers on nuts and bolts...or indeed adding superglue to floss nock points.

My own serving work never needs glue, but I'll dab a speck on for other peoples strings....that they'll never find it unravelling during a shoot and ask "Is this the best you could do?"

[30mbull]

Originally Posted by King Custard

Ah yes caught me.

If you havent got a note somewhere of the previous nocking point height- you really should have.......if the nock points are 'roaming' then a rough guess at where they should be will do- for later reapplying those nock points..

once the string is back in serviceable order- the only way to Really get the proper nock height is to bareshaft tune a little - Only as much as nock point though ( don't be scared, its really simple even first time).....

At a distance you are comfortably grouping your arrows a fairly tight group- perhaps 20 yards but not less, shoot an arrow or two that have no fletches (ie: bare shafts) and see where they hit in relation to the fletched group.

they should hit at the SAME HEIGHT on the boss ( dont worry about left or right) just the same height.

If you bare shaft is lower than the group of fletched- this indicates that the nock points are too high ( move them down a tad )...
If the bareshaft is higher than the group- then you points are too low.
with a little fiddling you'll get them spot on- at the same level.

What if you haven't got a clue where to put them to start with???:

Using a brace-height guage, clipped to the string and resting on your arrow rest.....attach the bottom nock point in a position so that the bottom of the arrow's nock itself will be around 3/8inch or 1/4 inch "Above level with the rest"- and attach the top nock in a position to allow the nock of the arrow to have just a little movement...so that you can just 'wiggle the arrow nock' . Half a mm is usually plenty.

Hi King Custard
Thanks very much for your help. I think I am a way off fine tuning my nocking points so I will just go with the starting points for the nocks.

[King Custard]

I do appreciate your kind thanks, but would like to add that the above ' bareshafting to find proper nock point fixing' isn't fine tuning......

It's very basic tuning, without which you may get away with decent arrow flight...but it's highly unlikely that setting your nock points to a 'standard measurement' will give the following four benefits:

1)good arrow flight - without 'porpoising' ( flapping up and down at the tail end in flight)
2) decent sightmarks - evidence that your set-up is working with reasonable efficiency, and allowing you to shoot nicely at both short range And longer ranges
3) good clearance - that the arrows vanes/fletches are not 'fouled' by the arrow rest or plunger button as they pass by.
4) good grouping- for least hard work ( groups generally tighten up as you approach the ideal nock-height for your set-up)

these four- in a nutshell- are must have's...it's well worth the time to get that nock point height right......as, if it isn't almost everything else will be wrong, your groupings could be worse than your actual ability, you may never be able to shoot your bow past 40 yards with any kind of accuracy if indeed be able to reach the target, you could spend far too much time refletching.........and you'll get so frustrated that you'll stay indoors instead of Enjoying your shooting time.

I can however appreciate how you might just want to get on and shoot right now with guessed/'standard' nock height.....though I will leave you with it, saying that my own bow Will NOT shoot properly at 3/8's inch for all the above reasons.....my own nock height is tad higher at 9mm...some peoples set-ups I heard of reportedly shoot best at even 19mm high!!!

So the best guidance is to shoot at least one bare shaft- see where it hits in height relation to your other fletched arrows - do this several times- and have peace of mind.

('bare' ing and putting three fletches back onto an arrow isn't difficult atall)

[30mbull]

You might regret giving out such useful tips. I might start using you as my own personal archery guru.LOL

[Cimbian]

Originally Posted by King Custard

I can however appreciate how you might just want to get on and shoot right now with guessed/'standard' nock height.....though I will leave you with it, saying that my own bow Will NOT shoot properly at 3/8's inch for all the above reasons.....my own nock height is tad higher at 9mm...some peoples set-ups I heard of reportedly shoot best at even 19mm high!!!

Need to ensure that we speak a common language here:

Beiter rest tips from Beiter website...
http://www.wernerbeiter.com/en/infor...ipps_RE_GB.pdf

"Nocking Point: It is absolutely normal to have the higher Nocking Point 16-20mm above Zero. These allows the Arrow Rest and the Plunger to work in a better synergy."

But this does seem to refer to the TOP ["higher"] nocking point unless it is a translation error... or... Does this mean that Germany tends to use the top nocking point as a reference? Anyone?