arrows going very right

[King Custard]

aaah...right...lets think about this....

unless you have a competition or some shoot that you want your bow in perfect tune for between now and when you change limbs/arrows etc...you have the alternative of not bothering to sort things out right now don't you...waiting and doing the tune once for your new set-up.

Comes across though as if it's doing your brain in right now ???

What is the chance that you can get your center-shot ( button body Position) back to exactly where it was before? assuming that you were shooting 'down the line' ie: on gold at all distances? Can you get your button tension similar to previous too? ( cos I just know you'd have tried moving this first )

If you can, then we can sort this dead easy >>>>
(otherwise you're looking at a full basic re-tune)

I'm for the moment convinced that you are just achieving a better release, a cleaner shot from your new tab face...and thats a good thing.

What I propose ( and definitely so-if your 'new tabface groups' are a little higher per sightmark than your 'old tab-face groups') ...is this:

Mark your limb bolt's current position with a gold paint-pen or similar so that you can always return them to their current position exactly.
Once you've done this...( as the center shot position was probably right previously) >>>>

Slack off your bowstring and then back off Both your limb bolts equally a half turn, and resecure them with any locking bolt/nut/plug or whatever...re-string your bow.

Get outside - shoot a group centered around the gold at your shortest competition distance.....then shoot a group at your longest competition distance - is it still centered around the gold?
If so excellent- you're finished! ( except for a walkback test to check all your distances are 'gold centered' and that your button Position is correct)


If your longest distance group is still right - back off the limb bolts another 1/4 turn equally....secure, restring...and shoot again....
Your long range group-center Should now be on the move towards gold.
Adjust until the long range group is spot on- and check that your short range group is still centered around the gold.

let me explain the thinking here:
Before anything was changed- your bow was tuned well enough? shooting gold'ish at all distances yes?

Right- when you changed the tab face , the slicker/ faster face now Allowed the string to come off your fingers quicker>>> that extra speed went up the back end of your arrow>>>which made it 'appear weaker'..and hence more to the right especially at distance..ie: with your lovely new tab - you now have too much ooomph being transferred into your arrows!( where some of that oomph was being lost due to a crabby old tab face)

Backing off the limb bolts Very effectively lowers the pressure/thrust, call it what you will - to something within the 'arrows ideal parameters' for shooting straight...effectively all you will be doing is 'negating that bit of extra speed that youve gained from a new tabface'....and your arrows should shoot down the line nicely again. You'll be pulling slightly less weight on your fingers- for an arrow 'Speed' that matches what it was previously with the old tabface..and all will be good again!

Finish off your session with a walk-back test to check all your distances are 'centered on the gold'.

Remember when walk-back testing:
A nice straight line down the center of your boss(es) is beautiful!

A straight line with a lean to one side indicates the need for more/less spring tension,

A bend in the line "C" shaped means that your button position is incorrect by a bit. ...a tenth of a turn can be all it takes to get it 'spot on'...it can a very delicate adjustment dependent on the amount of curvature of your "C" shape.

And a kink- or an "S" shape indicates that your button position is wrong a bit AND very likely so is your spring tension.

"All things being equal" following this route should provide you with a bow that reacts exactly as it did before...same sightmarks and everything!!

You should be finished easily within an hour!

.......
Until you get the new limbs/arrows etc and the old tuning conundrum starts all over again

[hooktonboy]

Originally Posted by King Custard

Can you get your button tension similar to previous too? ( cos I just know you'd have tried moving this first )

I bet he didn't - he's got more sense than me!

[not dead yet]

alan chuck.


if you slacken your limbs off to the minimum you wouldn't see a great deal of differance .


in theory what king custard is saying is sort of ok but u'd need two more pr or limbs approx 5lb either side of your original poundage.



shoot the damn bow wait for your limbs.



DADDY

[King Custard]

Thats a new one..a change of tab face equating to gain in arrow speed equivalent to 5lb on the fingers!
WOW.


Maybe you should go with what Daddy says...if he's financing the new limbs at any rate.

[not dead yet]

Originally Posted by King Custard

Thats a new one..a change of tab face equating to gain in arrow speed equivalent to 5lb on the fingers!
WOW.


Maybe you should go with what Daddy says...if he's financing the new limbs at any rate.

alan knows what i mean.

your the one that mentioned winding the limbs down.

[Wrexham Exile]

Originally Posted by King Custard

Thats a new one..a change of tab face equating to gain in arrow speed equivalent to 5lb on the fingers!
WOW.


Maybe you should go with what Daddy says...if he's financing the new limbs at any rate.

hang on lets get summin clear - pete aint my dad. is some rather creepy thing he keeps saying, and no one is paying for these limbs except me.

quite good at standing on my own feet thanks.

[Wrexham Exile]

any chance this thread could be kept on topic???

[Tom]

Originally Posted by Wrexham Exile

any chance this thread could be kept on topic???

I've trimmed out the off topic posts. Hopefully, that will help