Slow Motion Video - First Attempt

[pyroarch57]

This is great stuff to see Trevor, keep it coming

[englishwarbow]

Originally Posted by Watch_Man

No it was just natural light. The software was what was at hand to get it on youtube. For our own use it doesn't matter as we review the raw data from the camera to a 42" Plasma via an HDMI cable. Thanks for the offer though

Your very welcome, if you ever need any help or want me to burn you a menu driven DVD out of them then I'll freely give my time

I think it's an outstanding tool you have there and will benefit your club immensely. I asked about the light because it gives an indication of the cameras ability, usualy you see these slowmo shots taken indoors against a black background, the reason is that they need a lot of light, the black background absorbing the shadow and light overspill. The fact that those shots you've taken have been taken in natural light shows the quality of the camera, it is amazing how things move on. I was thinking about buying one but I've looked at some of the resolution specs and for what I need it isn't there just yet but then again...

[Watch_Man]

Originally Posted by Huffy

I am very impressed with the videos that you have taken, like englishbowman I did wonder about the quality that an "amateur" camera would produce.

I hope that you will take some shots of a recurve and can post them as well.

Best wishes, Mark

Mark

we will be taking it along to the club so I can imagine there will be plenty of recurve clips.

[Watch_Man]

Originally Posted by englishwarbow

Your very welcome, if you ever need any help or want me to burn you a menu driven DVD out of them then I'll freely give my time

I think it's an outstanding tool you have there and will benefit your club immensely. I asked about the light because it gives an indication of the cameras ability, usualy you see these slowmo shots taken indoors against a black background, the reason is that they need a lot of light, the black background absorbing the shadow and light overspill. The fact that those shots you've taken have been taken in natural light shows the quality of the camera, it is amazing how things move on. I was thinking about buying one but I've looked at some of the resolution specs and for what I need it isn't there just yet but then again...

Cheers for the software We just went out on to the decking this morning and apart from forgetting to change the white balance back to auto or daylight I just used all the auto settings. My DVD camcorder requires very good lighting and this is much much better.

[englishwarbow]

Originally Posted by Watch_Man

Cheers for the software We just went out on to the decking this morning and apart from forgetting to change the white balance back to auto or daylight I just used all the auto settings. My DVD camcorder requires very good lighting and this is much much better.

Thats a good sign, if the auto settings a reliable for out doors work then it's doing well, but always adjust if indoor. Does it allow you to adjust the white balance manauly to the enviroment by holding up a piece of white paper/card?

[Tony_zelah]

Useing a TT drop away as well I found the clips very usefull It's got me thinking do I need to adjust the timing, so its comes up at the last moment, hopefully meaning it will drop earlier to.

[the_bowman]

Very interesting clips, just shows the amount of flexing that an arrow goes through when shot.

However, as a recurve archer, I am now wondering that if all arrows flex like that, why do I need to bother with a sprung pressure button.

unless I did not see it correctly, it did look like the arrow in the first clip flexed away from the bow, and as such would not have any contact with a button!!

If that is the case, why does everyone spend so long tuning the pressure applied by the button. I can understand the button's help in ensuring that the arrow is pointing at x degrees away from true centre for a recurve bow, but apart from that.................

[Watch_Man]

Originally Posted by englishwarbow

Thats a good sign, if the auto settings a reliable for out doors work then it's doing well, but always adjust if indoor. Does it allow you to adjust the white balance manauly to the enviroment by holding up a piece of white paper/card?

I will have to check the destructions on how to set it but it does have Manual WB as well as Auto, Daylight, Overcast, Shade, DayWhite Fluorescent, Daylight Fluorescent and Tungsten. And while scrolling through them I have just remembered to reset the WB to Auto

[Watch_Man]

Originally Posted by the_bowman

Very interesting clips, just shows the amount of flexing that an arrow goes through when shot.

However, as a recurve archer, I am now wondering that if all arrows flex like that, why do I need to bother with a sprung pressure button.

unless I did not see it correctly, it did look like the arrow in the first clip flexed away from the bow, and as such would not have any contact with a button!!

If that is the case, why does everyone spend so long tuning the pressure applied by the button. I can understand the button's help in ensuring that the arrow is pointing at x degrees away from true centre for a recurve bow, but apart from that.................

The flexing of a recurve arrow is different. The video clips shows a compound. Hopefully (weather permitting) we may have an opportunity to get some recurve clips at the club.

[Watch_Man]

Originally Posted by Tony_zelah

Useing a TT drop away as well I found the clips very usefull It's got me thinking do I need to adjust the timing, so its comes up at the last moment, hopefully meaning it will drop earlier to.

Tony, there is very obviously a shelf bounce back from the blade of the TT as Geoff pointed out. Wendy tried it a couple of weeks ago with her shorter outdoor nano pro's and the grouping spread when compared to her limb driver. We now think this is because the bounce of the rest is catching the tail of the arrows. On the heavier indoor arrows this does not seem to be a problem.

If the weather holds today we hope to try and capture some footage of the TT with nano's to see if this is the case. We also want to capture the limb driver to compare the two.

I would guess that if Wendy wants to shoot the TT with the nano's then it will need to be re-timed to ensure the fork bounce happens after the arrow has cleared the rest. You may need to play around with your timing if you are having similar problems.