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| Nat, I'll give those points a go, but just for clarification, this 0 tiller started before the hot weather. Also, Robert posted that he only saw the top limb and not both limbs.
__________________ success is going from failure to failure without losing enthusiasm. AIUK Subscriptions / archeryOrganiser / Archers Mart |
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| what i meant was, they may be flapping at the same time or out of sync. yet to be determined.
__________________ success is going from failure to failure without losing enthusiasm. AIUK Subscriptions / archeryOrganiser / Archers Mart |
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| when setting tiller don't measure the tiller until you have shot at least 10 arrows my limbs don't settle to their natural position until at least 10 arrows are shot and if you adjust, measure again only after 10 arrows it is the only true way to get a true measurement
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| to find out if the top limb is U/S hold the bow vertical grab the string in the middle and push up and pull down . both limbs should move in tandem. if the top limb moves more then the top limb is u/S oh and sp220 clicki has half the poundage you have is she starts adding weight the it wont be doin anything |
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| "Limb, Flutter and Tiller".... sounds like a dodgy name for an archery Solicitors office to me.... ![]() |
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__________________ success is going from failure to failure without losing enthusiasm. AIUK Subscriptions / archeryOrganiser / Archers Mart |
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| Hi, The tiller change could be down to the limbs settling down in the heat or just with use. I see that the limbs you use are winact and I beleive that they have a wood core and not syntactic, this would explain the slight movement in tiller. I can't see this as anything to worry about. Tiller is only a static measurement and is a very crude way of acheiving so called limb balance, and as far I know nobody has found a good way of finding correct tiller settings for an individaul pair of limbs. I was once told that as you pull the bow back the longrod should stay level and not rise. however when we tried it the tiller measurements were silly and the bows we tried were awful to shoot. As for the limb flap. Stabilisation is the way to go as some should be expected. Long rods with doinkers help and If shooting less that 45lb then you should use a top rod as well to reduce the flap/wobble. Over 45 and flap' is much reduced as the limbs have more inbuilt resistance to it and you can get away without a top rod. |
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Alan |
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Gtek once said on this forum, and its stuck in my head, that he has observed a drop of (if i remember rightly) 1.2-1.3lbs in bow weight over the first 3000 shots if the bow is about 35lbs at 28" (we locked horns at tad over it a little while back) Here goes for some speculation... so dont shoot me for it. If the top of the tree is less dense, than the bottom, and no two trees are the same density, then it is possible that you have two limbs with different tree's in them, and with these mass production techneques there ends up a difference that can show in the balance of the limbs as the limbs loose a different range of averages over 3000 shots.. Pure speculation as we have not observed this drop in bow weight in any of our bows, as discussed in the other thread. But if this speculation is nothing but rubbish, having not seen or have any knowledge of this product, then you have something more funny going on! If this is the case then it could be normal "settling in", more than likely its the bolts moving, BH chnages, preload changes, limbs failing, are all things to consider in the "funny things" |
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