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| French tuning ,if I remember correctly, is a walk back method but you cut out most of the intermediate distances.You shoot something like 70m and possibly 30m. I think the idea is that if they are ok(left/right) the ones between should be. 90m/ 100y should have no reason to go off to one side either. |
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| that sounds like what i do, shoot 18m, then set sights for 90m and shoot that, hopefully left/right alignment should be good. then i dont worry about anything in between
__________________ 2006/7 -BUSA Indoors Novice Gold -BUSA Outdoors Novice Bronze -AIUK MooCo Silver |
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| from NYBOWHUNTER.COM: Modified French Tuning - Quote:
now i realise theyre talking compound but assuming your arrows are matched and substitute 'button centreshot' for 'rest centreshot' ? slainte : rob
__________________ individually we are one drop - together we are an ocean (ryunosuke satoro) |
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| IMO this sort of french tuning - ie: at just two distances is just not good enough for recurve....unless you only shoot the same two distances in competition. It is only too easy to beleive that cos you hit tens at 20 yards and nines at 100 yards ( or whatever) that there is no distance in between where you're hitting fine groups of blues or worse! A simple walkback test that shows a drop of arrows - 'C' shaped in either direction may well have your first highest arrow central...and your last arrow central too .... but those in between ie: that correspond to the distances in between can be way out of central on the boss. This indicates , normally, a dodgey button body position - that you'd not notice if you only shoot the two distances.... not notice, that is, until you have a fine longer distance score -a poop middle distance score ( cos your grouping isn't cental on the boss)- and a fine short distance score. I'd advise that a walkback is the only way to be certain that you are shooting 'down the line'....I do mine from 20 to 100 yards on as windless a day as I can ...and 'allow' ( through experience) for any small draught if - as usual- windless days are few and far between. I was under the impression though that two distances is fine for compounds as they have 'no' (?) horizontal paradox to eliminate |
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| Read this article on french tuning by John Dudley - Did it a few times. http://www.dudleyarchery.info/articles/usarcher1FT.pdf |
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| I just find my group centres at all fita distances and adjust button in/out & pressure until the are all below each other (ish) .. I'm not in favour of FT because strange things can happen between 90 & 30 and think you have to check the distances you shoot |
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| Having read the other posts in this thread, two things strike me as important enough to try to get some clarification. One; I would not necessarily use paper testing to tune a bow for groups but I feel it is worth noting that paper tears at 5y or so can help archers who are having problems with hand postion in the grip. If the tears vary in shape it is possibly showing a variation in hand position; this is not good. Two; if the arrow is neither left nor right of center at 70m and at close range, why would the impacts be off centre at the in between distances? That would mean arrows flying along a curved path(curved left to right or right to left) I am not saying this cannot happen,I am asking how it is possible in still air. This has bugged me for some time, as it seems unnatural. |
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| Quote:
(based on my own experience and the valued opinions of those who know better than me) slainte rob
__________________ individually we are one drop - together we are an ocean (ryunosuke satoro) |
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