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| Thank you all for the inputs. Tonight I will have a busy session fixing form and setup. I will keep you updated. Still any other hints/suggestions will be very much appreciated. ![]() Elder. |
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| I had the same problem recently and after spending time looking at the arrows and bow setup I found it to be the position of my bow hand in the grip. Once I had rotated the position of my hand outwards, that is, clockwise around the grip, I immediately got clearance and good arrow flight. I've since bought a Jager BEST grip and it has shown me exactly where my grip should be. Its easy to bring small changes into your technique over a period of time that will eventually show up in an unexpected way and we tend to blame the equipment first instead of looking at the basics. Hope it helps, cheers. |
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| Alanadale, I'll second that. |
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| Hi Yesterday I did some changes in my bow: hardened the button, hardened the rest and pulled the arm out so it holds the arrow better and, set even tiller and increased the nocking point height. I also was more careful with release. Powder test was OK, lipstick test still TODO. Overall it seems better though the bow sounded a little louder in the 30m range (two walls 3m apart) but not in the field when I shot it today. I still have to work on the nocking point though: it is at 3/8" (from the rest) now but I think I need to set it to 1/2" as unfletched arrows are hitting 10 cm or so above fletched ones (18m). I am just a little concerned as 1/2" seems excessive to me. I am also wondering if it is worth to return to 1/8" tiller as the bow sounded more silent before. Other than that it is shooting as nice now as it was before (discounted the noise and arrow hitting problem). Elder. |
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| When you did the powder test, where did you put the powder, on the back end of the arrow and vanes,or on the riser around the button and rest area? If you re-set the tiller to 1/8"(shorter at the bottom) it can be easily reversed, so it would be worth trying.Note that the nocking point will move too. |
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| I put the powder on the bow (shelf and rest/button/clicker area). Elder. |
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| So, if there are no marks in the powder, it is likely the vane damage is being done by the sight. If it's the aperture or threaded rod, it should be clear at short ranges and only damage the vane at long range.If it happens at short range too, the vane may be striking the scale bar. Lipstick or powder on the bottom end, will be useful. |
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| Quote:
__________________ If something is to hard to do, then it's not worth doing... Trying is the first step towards failure... - H.Simpson |
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