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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 30-04-06, 10:07 PM
Flandyman's Avatar
In the Blue
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Riser:
Limbs: Hoyt GM - edge limbs
Sight: Eyeball Mk1, Blue fo
Stabilisers: 30in Easton ACE with
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Arrows: ACC

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Quote:
Originally Posted by merv
not with arrows actually,but with the shooting of them.
bought myself a new set of aces,i have to say that shooting them as apposed to aluminiums is quite different.
Has anybody else encountered problems changings from aluminiums to aces in respect to groups or more accurately the lack of.
did it take you long getting into the groove so to speak,i know that long term they are the business,but at the minute i wouldnt want to go further back than 20 yards just in case.
Any little tips on how to get back to the form i had shooting aluminiums previous before the change would be appreciated.
Changing from alis to these will require you to reset-up your bow - you will need to re-tune - they are less forgiving than alis and will show up even minor errors in your form. That said - sort the tune and your form and you will see better groups and higher scores !
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-06, 12:50 AM
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Now with added LBB
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Riser: W&W Inno Carbon
Limbs: W&W Inno Power 36#
Sight: Shibuya Ultima/Titan
Stabilisers: W&W HMC Setup
Button: Beiter
Bow String: Angel Majesty 16 Strand
Arrows: 620 ACE's/ 570 FMJ's

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I must confess that when I changed from my XX75's to ACE my groups improved. But that was after I spent a good amount of time changing the setup of the bow and making sure everything was absolutely spot on, or as close as I could make it. Of course its not and I need to spend some time tuning the bow but the groups are not too bad. Good place to start the tuning process.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-06, 12:45 PM
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It's an X
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Riser: Winact -original version
Limbs: Samick Extreme
Sight: Arc Systeme SX10
Stabilisers: Spiga Scorpion rods
Button: Shibuya DX
Bow String: 8125/Angel Majesty
Arrows: Triple 700s, 110 gra

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I recall an article in Archery Focus, from Don Rabska.

He reckoned that centreshot was much more critical on skinny arrows. He recommended setting up ACEs and X10s, so that the tip of the point lay at the outside edge of the string (and not the edge of the shaft, as is quite often illustrated). And then adjust the rest so that none of it protrudes past the arrow shaft...
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-06, 12:12 AM
In the Blue
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Limbs: merlin litestorm 2
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Arrows: carbon epic and 2114 platinum XX75

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slightly off topic abit but i have just changed my tab to a platform tab from the good old beginners tab and im having similar problems though has got better with lots of arrows shot. what im trying to say is that any change to your current set up will cause a blimp in form/scores. i think you need to persevere and depending on the size of the change will determine the size of the blimp
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-06, 10:17 PM
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In the White
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Limbs: Hoyt Aerotec with Vector 70" limbs - 42lb
Sight: Silver Sure-Loc Quest-X
Stabilisers: Beiter Centralizer, V-bar and twins
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Arrows: Easton A/C/E

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Agree with doubletop, I see this a lot down the club. Someone will change to a new bit of kit, say fitting a longrod for the first time, and it will screw up thier scores. They then give up and go back to shooting without it.

Switching to ACEs is going to screw your groups unless you spend a good few sessions getting used to them. They need careful setting up, as stated the centre shot should be half an arrow width out, not a full width as with ally's. They are also really unforgiving of bad looses, try shooting some bareshaft ACEs and plucking one - the damn thing will nearly go around the corner even with a good tune!
Most of all, persevere! Don't be tempted to switch back to ally's for out doors. The sight marks for ACEs are much better (get a basic tune then loft one at your old ally 90m mark and watch it go sailing over the top!), they are faster and they are much more forgiving in the wind.

IMHO changing to a decent set of carbons is the single biggest equipment-only thing you can do to improve scores.
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