limb adjustment in or out?

[tel]

Had a look round but can't find the answer (though I'm sure it's here somewhere!).
On an adjustment system that uses shim/washer insertion or removal do you add or take away to increase poundage?

Cheers

tel

[buzz lite beer]

Can only recall Yammaha and I believe Nishizawa bows used a shim system for increasing draw weights when they were added. It's easy to determine for sure anyway, if fitting a shim moves the unstrung limb forward it increases draw weight and visa-versa.

[Timid Toad]

Having owned a Yamaha Alpha-EX and Him Indoors owning a Nishizawa...
It all depends on the angles the limbs make with the riser.
On both the Yammy and the Nishi, the shims go under the limbs, so the biggest shim moves the limb angle flatter to the riser, and the limb tip is more towards the back of the bow/target, if you get what I mean.
With both bits of kit, the standard set up as supplied came with the largest shims fitted, and that was the poundage as marked on the limbs. Fitting smaller shims moves the limb tips towards the archer, giving a reduction of 5% and 10%.
Both were pretty accurate draw weight wise but be aware that while the shims did not affect the tiller of the Yammy, the washer system of the Nishi needed rebalancing.
IMHO it was a better system because the fixings were very solid and there was much less to fiddle with. They never came loose, string alignment was fixed (and limbs straight). Never had a day's bother my Yamaha.
I hope I have explained it well enough....if not let me know and I'll try to post some pics of the Yamaha with its shims in place and its effects on the limbs.

Cherry

[tel]

I think I've got it - it's always a bit different when it's in front of you and you're wondering which way it should go, bit like the 'which way to move the sight' trap!
What started it off was the observation of one of our more experienced members that my tiller was way out. I have started to look at that problem and improved the tiller/vibration situation, but at the expense of sight marks. I didn't take anything away entirely, just transferred various 'washers' from one pocket to the other. What I was wondering was, having got the tiller somewhere like it, if I now removed/added equal thicknesses from either pocket I could maintain the tiller but increase the poundage to get my sight marks back.

[Timid Toad]

Him indoors has a box full of spare washers when he's playing with his poundage/tiller. Its not compulsory to have them all in, just whatever works. However you can get your limbs angled furthest away from you still with good tiller should give you maximum poundage. I have found that its not always as simple as removing or adding one equally top and bottom - just the same as modern tiller adjustment - one turn on the bottom needs a turn and a quarter on the top with my kit.
The other way to tell is to do some bare shaft tuning. I've recently upped my poundage a little because my arrows were too stiff and its amazing how tiny movements make a difference. My bare shaft has moved from 12" left of the group to 4" right by upping the weight by about one turn on the limb bolts. That gave me enough room on my button spring to tune the bow. I don't even feel the difference.
Good luck with the limbs.

[tel]

Thanks for your input
Strange thing, through all this the bareshaft has been right in amongst them up to 60 yds, regardless of the changes in tiller/poundage...maybe I need a stick!