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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 14-12-05, 10:07 PM
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Indeed they do. I've had both my allys & my ACCs shortened slightly- partly because I wound up the limbs, partly because of the effect of removing brass nocking points. Tuning time after Xmas..

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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 15-12-05, 08:33 AM
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I have removed the brass nocking points and changed nocks to the beiter in/outs it did make a pretty large change to the spine, and once tuned in the groups were tighter and more expensive!!! plus the tab isnt getting chewed slowly by the ends of the brass.

Try it its relativly simple and easy to go back if it doesnt work
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 15-12-05, 02:03 PM
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There has been a lot of discussion about nocking points on the boards but no one has mentioned what height they nock at. I know that this depends on the state of tune of each individual set up but there does not appear to be a definitive way of measuring it. In the archers reference by Murray Elliot the arrow is shown below a nock point and is measured from a point level with the rest to the bottom of the nock while in the Easton tuning guide it is measured from the same point but to the top of the arrows nock. Thus 2 archers talking nock points could both seem to have the same nock height but be very different. Why do we not have a standard which takes the centre of the arrows nock as a reference point? Just a thought but seeing as most other measurements are taken in a standard way it seems odd, could also cause a lot of confusion to new archers.
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 15-12-05, 02:17 PM
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I agree on this point Andy. The measurement is not very clear at all. A good standard would be the centre of the arrow and it's nock. Saying that as we all learn the technical side of archery we kind of work it out for our selves.

I am shocked to see so many people in some clubs are totally clueless as to how to setup a bow, and what is more, show little interest in learning how to do so.
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 15-12-05, 02:32 PM
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I have been led to measure the height difference between the rest and the top of the lower nock. if that makes sense! currently its at about 5mm +-.5
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 15-12-05, 02:58 PM
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Hi Gunmender, that's cool as long as you feel the arrows group well compared to a bare fletched arrow.

It does not really matter how you measure it. Bare shaft tuning will determin the ideal nock point. The trick is to measure it when you are happy with it. How you measure it is up to you. I measure from my brace hight gauge ( a true right angle to the bottom of the arrow shaft on the rest) to the bottom of the nock. Nock points in books are only a starting point to tune from. 5mm to 6mm above square is a good starting point.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 15-12-05, 03:08 PM
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For nocking point position I rest the square on top of the Beiter plunger - why - because its the only fixed reference point. Middle of the arrow, arrow rest are all moveable. As far as the other end goes I use the centre point of the arrow shaft.

Never being convinced that nocking point, within reason, was that important anyway. It only becomes important for the small minority of archers who fine tune and even then there is no optimum position unless you are tuning the bow for a specific target distance.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 15-12-05, 03:25 PM
rgsphoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joetapley
For nocking point position I rest the square on top of the Beiter plunger - why - because its the only fixed reference point. Middle of the arrow, arrow rest are all moveable. As far as the other end goes I use the centre point of the arrow shaft.
Hmmm. I agree the button does not move but if you say the rest does move then the only way to check the angle the arrow sits on the bow is from the rest. If the nock point was measured from the button the distance would never change even though the rest could have dropped off!

If this sort of stuff did not matter, top arcghers would not bother going to great lenghts to tune there bows. I agree a lot of archers would not benefit from an acurate nock point, good form is king when it comes to points, but I see no point in not following good practice when it comes to setting up a bow. And as we all get better this sort of stuff helps get those extra points we all crave. But each to there own. have a

Last edited by Dave; 15-12-05 at 04:19 PM.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 15-12-05, 04:17 PM
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rgsphoto - point valid - misunderstanding

To clarify most arrow rests are 'springy' so its easy to get variations by the bow square pushing the rest down variable amounts. Plunger is fixed.

Quote:
If this sort of stuff did not matter, top arcghers would not bother going to great lenghts to tune there bows
I agree but for the average archer not necessary to any significant degree. Take 'bare shaft hits at same height as fletched arrow'. This only a rough reference point - nothing really to do with tuning. Your bow set up will will be different if you do this at different distances, will even be different at the same distance depending on what height the two sets of arrows are hitting.
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Last edited by joetapley; 15-12-05 at 04:22 PM.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 15-12-05, 04:17 PM
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I agree with Joe, the button will never move. The height recorded then will be still to the best point as determined by the bare shaft? as long as your consistant with the measuring points and recording any method will do.

Out of intrest Joe are you getting readings of just 1 or 2 mm?
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