Removal of brass nocking points

[gunmender]

a deft engineers touch to determin the point of contact needed! a beiter rest seems fine for my measuring method.

[joetapley]

Gunmender

Switched to using the button a long time ago when the problem was noticed. IIRC something a little over 1mm. With a loose fitting gauge and bow horizontal not so bad but vertical bow and the 90 deg. variable. With a gauge that grips the string more force can be exerted on the spring. As you say, you can always be careful

The finger on a beiter rest is very stiff so no problem. With Yahama flip/ARE 'what I uses' it can be.

Hi Joe,

if you cnsider the nocking point to be so unimportant why do you bother measuring it at all? and if so what distance do you measure it so accuratly at? Just seems a bit of conflict here

[gunmender]

The set up of the nockingpoint and bracing heights are i think very important, in terms of what method of measurement and even what units are used its all individual. Repeatability and consistancy are the keys. Why not mark the Bow guage with a fine line from a marker at the optimum settings - easy to check quickly that all is correct.

Thanks for confirming the top of button height Joe, I can see its a more constant point. I do like the Beiter rest for it ease of adjustment, but I dont see many around!

[joetapley]

if you cnsider the nocking point to be so unimportant why do you bother measuring it at all?

I only every measure the nocking point position once - when I make a string. But I want a new string to be identical to the previous ones.

Point I'm making is that there is no point busting a gut trying to 'tune' a nocking point to some hypothetical highly accurate position with the bare shaft approach as you are just moving about between various thereabouts settings.

Gunmender - I like the Beiter rest design as much as I dislike the wrap round rest concept; opposite ends of how to design an arrow rest spectrum and have one in the box. I and a lot of other archers have tried the Beiter and found problems with it. I think (speculatively) that the finger needs to be replaced with a hinged wire.

[TJ Mason]

Umm...the only time I've ever had a problem with the Beiter rest was when I had the nocking point too low. This caused the finger to bend. With the nocking point set correctly (achieved by bareshaft tuning) I've had absolutely no problem with the Beiter rest.

[gunmender]

Do you make your strings with the nocking points in the serving? or are they added after the string is served. The initial streach of the sting would effect the position? or is the streach constant along the length?

[joetapley]

For a long time I've used teflon reels which like the Beiter are served in. No longer availble so guess I'll have to switch to the Beiter - currently growing the required third hand for fitting . As the nocking point fitted with the string under tension never noticed any shift (8125).

Never figured out why many archers get on fine with the Beiter rest and why many (including some world class archers) don't. Suspect it may have something to do with the dynamic tiller.

[gunmender]

Interesting about the Beiter NPs, do you use their in/outs or pin type nocks?

Dynamic tiller? please shed some more light, are you referring to the change in tiller as the draw takes place?

All very interesting so far

[joetapley]

Nocks - Beiter standard 12/2 - never tried the in/out.

Dynamic Tiller = what is sometimes referred to as nock travel.
On (recurve) release you want the nock to drop rotating the arrow away from the rest - else the arrow bounces unpredictably of the rest a la trampoline. Lots of factors effect this; static limb tiller, high/low grip, hand size, finger pressure distribution and of course nock point position.

It may be that with the more vertically rigid Beiter finger some archers run into arrow-rest interaction problems as regards nock travel while flip type rests are more accommodating (just guessing)