Adjusting Centre Shot

[MikeD]

I've managed to get the first stage of tuning sorted on a set of ACCs for outdoor and X7s for indoor. I have bare shafts landing in the group. Using two buttons. The ACCs were weak to start and the X7s strong.

However, one set requires the windage setting of my sight to be moved to minimum and the other set the windage is set to maximum.

Can I make small adjustments to the centre shot of one the sets to get the same windage setting as tthe other (and then screw the pin in or out to get the windage setting in the centre)?

[joetapley]

I've managed to get the first stage of tuning sorted

If the tuning is 'sorted' then the pin should be close to/on centreshot i.e. zero windage for both arrow sets. That they are not suggests maybe there's some room for improvement

Simple way to basic tune is to put the pin at centreshot and adjust so that the arrows hit where the bow is pointed.

[MikeD]

joetapley - 26/9/2005 3:29 PM

If the tuning is 'sorted' then the pin should be close to/on centreshot i.e. zero windage for both arrow sets. That they are not suggests maybe there's some room for improvement

Simple way to basic tune is to put the pin at centreshot and adjust so that the arrows hit where the bow is pointed.

I'd wondered about that, but in each case the bare shaft is falling within the group. However it was indoors and just 18 metres. A walk back test from 20 to 45 metres with the ACCs was vertical, which suggests they may be better tuned than the X7s.

My thought was that the centre shot is a bit subjective as I cannot focus on the string and the end of the arrow shaft, so it may not be exactly the width of the shaft outside the string (this is recurve by the way). I would expect this inaccuracy to have an effect.

But now I know I should be able to get the windage the same for both sets of arrows, I'll persevere with button tension adjustments for the X7s and see if they get closer to the same windage setting as the ACCs.

Ta,

Mike

[joetapley]

Two points worth emphasising.
With a walk back method the pin has to be on (and stay on) centreshot before you start.
Bareshaft tuning needs to be done at around 30 metres to get a sensible result. (18m is too short).

The initial setting of centreshot is only a starting point so don't need to be squinting too much. One diameter for the X7 and maybe half a diameter for the ACC. Centreshot (and then spring) is then adjusted as necessary.

[MikeD]

joetapley - 26/9/2005 4:09 PM

Two points worth emphasising.
With a walk back method the pin has to be on (and stay on) centreshot before you start.
Bareshaft tuning needs to be done at around 30 metres to get a sensible result. (18m is too short).

The initial setting of centreshot is only a starting point so don't need to be squinting too much. One diameter for the X7 and maybe half a diameter for the ACC. Centreshot (and then spring) is then adjusted as necessary.

Thanks Jo, I think I'm understanding this better

Just to be sure though... When you say the pin should be on the centre shot, would that be with the string aligned to the centre of the limbs the pin is in line with the string.

I've certainly got the ACCs nearer to a full diameter rather than half, so that is something to look at first.

Thanks

Mike

[joetapley]

When you say the pin should be on the centre shot, would that be with the string aligned to the centre of the limbs the pin is in line with the string.

Yes. You can also aim with the string picture running through the sight pin as this eliminates any variablility in head position from shot to shot. (in practice I've never found this to make any significant difference - in my case the string is lined up with the inside of the sight ring so minimal practical difference)

[Murray]

Agree wholeheartedly with what Joe is saying. If your sight is left and your arrows are going right (or vice versa), then you aren't tuned (and it'll be a pain outdoors). The bareshaft is a good first indicator, but adjustments of the centreshot may be necessary to get the group into the middle of the target at all distances.

It may also be that the spring is too stiff or weak, giving false results, at which point you need to consider bow weight adjustment, or other more minor changes to get the bow/arrow combination correct, of course what's right for your ALIs isn't necessarily what's right for your carbons!

Tuning is fun, ain't it?

[MikeD]

Murray - 26/9/2005 5:55 PM

Agree wholeheartedly with what Joe is saying. If your sight is left and your arrows are going right (or vice versa), then you aren't tuned (and it'll be a pain outdoors). The bareshaft is a good first indicator, but adjustments of the centreshot may be necessary to get the group into the middle of the target at all distances.


Tuning is fun, ain't it?

Thanks Murray. You've actually answered my first question. I'm getting bare shafts in the group, with both sets of arrows (with different buttons). It looks like I need to adjust the centre shot next. Then back to more bareshaft testing at longer distances. A walk back test with the ACCs was vertical, but I din't do that with the X7s as they have huge quickspins on for indoor. My guess is they are not so well tuned yet.

[Jerry Tee]

You can find the center by using so tape and dental floss. measure the limbs width half it and mark it top and bottom( put a bit of tape on the limb and mark that with pencil). Tape a lenght of dental floss between the two marks so that it passes over the front of the bow. Put an arrow on the rest so that the tip of the pile is just behind the dental floss and rest the rear of the arrow against the string. You should be able to see how much the point is away from the detal floss. If you have limb bolts with allen key recesses as I have on my compound the whole operation is much easier.