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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 18-11-05, 10:21 PM
joetapley's Avatar
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At each set of tests, we could not find a configureation that would put the bare shaft and the fletched shaft in the same location.
I think Phil was referring to this. Incomplete account but sounds like a bad experiment with faulty conclusions.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 18-11-05, 10:43 PM
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Joe

Exactamundo and as for excuses I am desperately trying to think up new ones so that I can cover up any poor sessions. I heard a nice one last weekend when a guy said that a light behind him was making his string far to white and he could not get his string picture correct.

Perhaps he should not have washed his string in Daz for that whiter look.

P.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 21-11-05, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joetapley
(contrary to popular opinion weaker is better than stiffer)
Now THAT intrigues me, since most of my better scores have been shot with an arrow that bareshafts about a foot and a half to the right at 30m... can you explain further please?
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 21-11-05, 09:01 AM
joetapley's Avatar
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Shirt
Two aspects;
1. Given two arrows which are both tuneable the weaker arrow is likely to have some combination of lighter/thinner shaft/higher FOC so it will be aerodynamically a better performer than a stiffer shaft. You will generally get better groups with a weaker shaft.

2. For bare shaft tuning the fletched arrow will behave on the bow dynamically stiffer than than a bareshaft one (physical weight at the back of the arrow of the fletchings and the 'added mass' of the fletching drag). So if the setup is perfectly tuned for the fletched arrow, with bareshaft tuning the bareshaft arrow will be 'weak' and hit to the right (RH archer) of the fletched arrow.

The reason it's often recommended to have a stiff arrow or for the bareshaft arrow hitting to the left of the fletched arrow is I think a hangover from the wooden bow era where you didn't have much of a bow window so you sacrified tuning for arrow clearance. I think longbow archers still use the bareshaft arrow low and left approach as this gives good clearance round the bow and over the bowhand.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 22-11-05, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joetapley
I think longbow archers still use the bareshaft arrow low and left approach as this gives good clearance round the bow and over the bowhand.
I've heard one or two archers (including Jay Barrs) stating that when their fine-group tuning was complete at long distance, the results of a bareshaft showed it low and left of the group at 20m. Of course, it's different for everyone. Personally, I find a slightly stiffer arrow more forgiving - but that's just me
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 30-11-05, 09:15 AM
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I believe Jay Barrs is a left hand shooter
But yes bareshaft position is just a reference point for fine tuning.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-05, 10:13 PM
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If you want to be really fine on your bear shaft tuning you weigh the fletches and add that much masking tape to the back end of the arrow in the same place as the fletches would normally be. I don't usually bother as the small kurly vanes I use weigh next to nothing. I usually do a walk down after that and so far I have always got a straight line.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-05, 12:49 PM
joetapley's Avatar
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Bare shaft tuning is based on the different arrow stabilisation characteristics between a fletched and a non fletched shaft. Fletching weight effects are really irrelevant. Adding the equivalent fletching weight to bareshaft arrow doesn't do any harm so OK to do it if you feel like it.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-05, 07:34 PM
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arrow selection charts eh? well if your shafts are way too stiiff, you have this consolation. as you continue shooting you will inebitably increase your poundage, and dont forget that your release has a great deal to do with this , so if your release becomes more dynamic as well you may still need those shafts!!
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-05, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silver streak
arrow selection charts eh? well if your shafts are way too stiiff, you have this consolation. as you continue shooting you will inebitably increase your poundage, and dont forget that your release has a great deal to do with this , so if your release becomes more dynamic as well you may still need those shafts!!
This is only really relevant to a beginner/novice. An experienced archer is not going to is not going to develop at the same rate.
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