Do we believe in nodes?

[steve58]

Does anyone know whether any of this applies to wooden arrows?

[Duss]

Why not? Same difference...

Even the beneficial effect of barrelling has been used in wooden arrows, centuries before Easton applied the principle to the A/C/E and X10 arrows.

New materials, same basic principles.

Originally Posted by steve58

Does anyone know whether any of this applies to wooden arrows?

[steve58]

I suppose I should have known... nothing new under the sun! Have now spent far too much time tapping arrows dangled by the nock as described and have found that there is indeed a spot where no, or very little, vibration is transmitted to the fingers holding the arrow. On my arrows it seems to be 3 to 4 inches behind the shoulder of the pile. My question now becomes... how shoudl I take account of this in choosing what length to make my arrows? So far I have made them 29" from nock slot to shoulder of the pile, this being my draw length, plus an inch for peace of mind.

[Neo]

I think if your shooting well and grouping ok and your score are consistant or slowly inproving ... who cares.

Think of the wood chuckers of robin hoods day, can you imagine them with weighing scales and a sharpened piece of flint microtuning a piece of ceader to counteract vibration to 100000th decimal place.

fair enough its more technical now but sometimes thing just get TOOOO technical and start taking the fun out of shooting if your constantly wondering why i got only 59 out of 60 arrows in the 10.

[Duss]

Read from the beginning and you will see some views on the nodes. Node positioning is seen as something to be observed as well as something that is not so important as to take care of it. So take your pick

I tend to go the following way:

Bracing height at approximately 1,75" longer than the rear node position. That seems to fit the conditions for the nock leaving the string straight, as described in Joe Tapley's paper on Bracing Heights for a description of what should happen.

As far as the front node is concerned I tend to go long. I usually place my rear node between 0,5" and 0,75" behind the button. In my case it yields LONG arrows, but they tune well and shoot well. I must use clicker extensions

Originally Posted by steve58

I suppose I should have known... nothing new under the sun! Have now spent far too much time tapping arrows dangled by the nock as described and have found that there is indeed a spot where no, or very little, vibration is transmitted to the fingers holding the arrow. On my arrows it seems to be 3 to 4 inches behind the shoulder of the pile. My question now becomes... how shoudl I take account of this in choosing what length to make my arrows? So far I have made them 29" from nock slot to shoulder of the pile, this being my draw length, plus an inch for peace of mind.

[Jimster71]

Originally Posted by Neo

fair enough its more technical now but sometimes thing just get TOOOO technical and start taking the fun out of shooting if your constantly wondering why i got only 59 out of 60 arrows in the 10.

To some people it's the difference between gold and silver.

Saying that, the least accurate component is usually the archer

[Marcus26]

I've never seen evidence that having the front node directly over the rest will make much difference.
Sounds like a good way to sell a DVD though.

[Duss]

OH! Marcus! Were you going to propose DVD franchise?

Anyway, a few months ago I had shorter arrows that were more like the "one inch in front" view. My longer arrows are more forgiving. Go figure!

[Neo]

Originally Posted by Jimster71

To some people it's the difference between gold and silver.

Saying that, the least accurate component is usually the archer

True there are so many variables the archer can do with release, stance, posture, foot positioning. having your eyes open and such.

I mean my arrows have never been microtuned, just bought accs with spinwings and g nocks and shoot them and im shooting golds 9s and 10s with the odd 8 now and again. scores are constantly rising, so i personally think you can over tune and become obsessed with tuning, every fault or mistake is then blamed on a set up problem instead of oops i just shot that arrow wonky.

[Duss]

When you go shooting outdoors (long distances) you will see some interest in doing fine tuning. Paper, bareshaft and walkback tunings.

A minimal amount of time spent on tuning usually saves way more in readjustments later. Indoors it usually does not make much difference. I see shooters who shoot indoors with arrows much too stiff (like using 340 spines instead of 600-650) and perform remarkably well. The wonky arrow then is very remarkable as well.

I am simply talking about precaution, not obsession.

Originally Posted by Neo

True there are so many variables the archer can do with release, stance, posture, foot positioning. having your eyes open and such.

I mean my arrows have never been microtuned, just bought accs with spinwings and g nocks and shoot them and im shooting golds 9s and 10s with the odd 8 now and again. scores are constantly rising, so i personally think you can over tune and become obsessed with tuning, every fault or mistake is then blamed on a set up problem instead of oops i just shot that arrow wonky.