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That said, I managed to get a 3rd class with 1816s and 1913s that were too stiff and a bit too long.
__________________ ~ you need to learn to listen before you can listen to learn ~ AIUK Subscriptions / archeryOrganiser / Archers Mart |
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| Perhaps you should do a complete tune-up of your equipment... A paper test to see if you are fairly tuned in nocking height and arrow stiffness. Then do a walkback test. You will fine-tune the stiffness and then see if your button position is OK, thus correcting the windage-with-distance problem. You could then maintain or check your tuning by doing some bareshafts periodically. |
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If the arrows were 27" long they'd probably be ok but as he's in his first year his draw is likely to lengthen which would make them too short (imo) to have a safe margin for the occasional (he-man) draw. Also (if he keeps these arrows uncut) as his draw length increases due to form improvements the arrows will act progressively weaker as the 'weight on fingers' increases. I was only trying to spare him a few weeks hassle and maybe ending up with arrows that were too short to sell on to help pay for the arrows that match his bow weight (imho) Beg borrow or steal some stiffer shafts as the charts are a guide and there are so many variables 'trying' is the best (and cheapest ) way imho |
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| Do not disregard the use of the walkback test. Even if you ajust the tuning-for-stiffness by any other way, the walkback will give you the correct button position adjustment and arrow stiffness by looking at the "banana". THEN you will have correct windage at any distance |
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| I agree with Duss, walkback is invaluable and very easy to do, do you have a sheet that shows you what to look for Ruth? If not, archers ref shows what the arrow fall pattern can mean and how to adjust ![]() |
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| I do love a good walkback test!!
__________________ ~ you need to learn to listen before you can listen to learn ~ AIUK Subscriptions / archeryOrganiser / Archers Mart | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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__________________ Joe |
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| Behave yourself Clicki ![]() Have you tried reducing your pressure button by 1 turn?
__________________ Where's the Kaboom !! There's supposed to be an earth shattering Kaboom! Last edited by jet186; 03-04-07 at 06:04 PM.. |
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| Go to Steve Ellison's place http://www.tenzone.u-net.com/ Or to Joe Tapley's place http://homepage.ntlworld.com/joetapley/ And look into the "tuning" sections Enjoy! |
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| But never forget to do a relatively good paper test beforehand. Making sure that you are in a situation where you can have the arrows behave stiffer or weaker just by changing the button's pressure around a "medium" setting. That may mean some adjustments brought to the arrow's type, length, pile weight, and/or bracing height, etc. If the young one is still growing up or expected to go up in draw weight, pelase do not choosea rrows that would have to be cut too short. You will then have to change arrows. If you start with longer arrows you will have leeway to work the arrows to keep them fitted to the growing archer and the archer's growing needs. That may incur more checking from time to time since longer arrows tend to make the fletching touch a wee bit more if the arrows are not too well tuned. Having two bare shafts serves to quickly check on tuning. Quite easy but it takes some porcedure and attention, but it is well worth doing, for the sakes of fun and efficiency ![]() |
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