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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-07, 01:36 PM
clickerati's Avatar
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  • Recurve
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Setup
Riser: merlin elite
Limbs: winacts
Sight: shibuya ultima
Stabilisers: cartel carbon
Button: shibuya dx
Bow String: purple
Arrows: plats + navs

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clickerati has completed all 6 rounds of either the Archery Interchange VGP or Winter League clickerati has taken part in an Archery Interchange Northern Counties Classic (NoCo) shoot clickerati has taken part in an Archery Interchange American shoot clickerati has taken part in an Archery Interchange Southern Counties Classic (SoCo) shoot clickerati has taken part in the Archery Interchange Ironman Challenge shoot clickerati has taken part in the Archery Interchange Birthday Weekender shoot clickerati has contributed to or organised an AIUK shoot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimster71 View Post
Interesting, I use 1816s for a 29lbs pull at a 27" draw. I think the arrows are a bit longer than needed to allow for expansion in my draw, so the extra length probably compensates.

What length do you draw Clicki?
On my 1616s, I started at 27.5" and am now at 26.5". However, my draw length has expanded back to where it was. Well, it had before I got ill, so I may need to stick with the shorter ones for the moment. My clicker is pulled right back to just in front of the button, so my draw length really is to the centre of the button and not a clicker plate in front of the bow.

That said, I managed to get a 3rd class with 1816s and 1913s that were too stiff and a bit too long.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-07, 02:14 PM
In the Blue
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Setup
Riser: Helix 25"
Limbs: G3 42# Long
Sight: Shibuya Ultima
Stabilisers: Beiter+Shibuya V-Bar
Button: Beiter
Bow String: BCY 8125
Arrows: A/C/E 520

Setup
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Perhaps you should do a complete tune-up of your equipment...

A paper test to see if you are fairly tuned in nocking height and arrow stiffness. Then do a walkback test. You will fine-tune the stiffness and then see if your button position is OK, thus correcting the windage-with-distance problem.

You could then maintain or check your tuning by doing some bareshafts periodically.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-07, 04:17 PM
John (OSF)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruthmc View Post
He's only drawing about 27" - we measured it! And he isn't using a clicker yet, as the arrows are too long for him to do so...

Ruth (part-time Jumile coach )
All you really need to know is the weight on fingers and length of arrow being shot, as he's 27" DL I compensated by reducing 36lb to 34lb and they still come up weak.
If the arrows were 27" long they'd probably be ok but as he's in his first year his draw is likely to lengthen which would make them too short (imo) to have a safe margin for the occasional (he-man) draw.
Also (if he keeps these arrows uncut) as his draw length increases due to form improvements the arrows will act progressively weaker as the 'weight on fingers' increases.
I was only trying to spare him a few weeks hassle and maybe ending up with arrows that were too short to sell on to help pay for the arrows that match his bow weight (imho)

Beg borrow or steal some stiffer shafts as the charts are a guide and there are so many variables 'trying' is the best (and cheapest ) way imho
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-07, 04:53 PM
In the Blue
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Helix 25"
Limbs: G3 42# Long
Sight: Shibuya Ultima
Stabilisers: Beiter+Shibuya V-Bar
Button: Beiter
Bow String: BCY 8125
Arrows: A/C/E 520

Setup
Bow:
String & Cables:
Sight:
Stabs:
Scope:
Launcher/Rest:
Arrows:
Release Aid:
Traditional Script currently under construction
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Location: Québec CANADA
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Do not disregard the use of the walkback test. Even if you ajust the tuning-for-stiffness by any other way, the walkback will give you the correct button position adjustment and arrow stiffness by looking at the "banana". THEN you will have correct windage at any distance
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-07, 05:31 PM
John (OSF)
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I agree with Duss, walkback is invaluable and very easy to do, do you have a sheet that shows you what to look for Ruth?
If not, archers ref shows what the arrow fall pattern can mean and how to adjust
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-07, 05:35 PM
clickerati's Avatar
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  • Recurve
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Setup
Riser: merlin elite
Limbs: winacts
Sight: shibuya ultima
Stabilisers: cartel carbon
Button: shibuya dx
Bow String: purple
Arrows: plats + navs

Setup
Bow:
String & Cables:
Sight:
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Scope:
Launcher/Rest:
Arrows:
Release Aid:
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: splendid isolation
Posts: 10,693

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Affiliation: GNAS
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clickerati has completed all 6 rounds of either the Archery Interchange VGP or Winter League clickerati has taken part in an Archery Interchange Northern Counties Classic (NoCo) shoot clickerati has taken part in an Archery Interchange American shoot clickerati has taken part in an Archery Interchange Southern Counties Classic (SoCo) shoot clickerati has taken part in the Archery Interchange Ironman Challenge shoot clickerati has taken part in the Archery Interchange Birthday Weekender shoot clickerati has contributed to or organised an AIUK shoot
WL Ranking: 2008 Rec. Div 4, 1st Place
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I do love a good walkback test!!
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-07, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clickerati View Post
I do love a good walkback test!!
Just not near a river.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-07, 05:49 PM
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Bow: Bowtech Tribute
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clickerati View Post
I do love a good walkback test!!
Behave yourself Clicki
Have you tried reducing your pressure button by 1 turn?
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Last edited by jet186; 03-04-07 at 06:04 PM..
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-07, 06:45 PM
In the Blue
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Helix 25"
Limbs: G3 42# Long
Sight: Shibuya Ultima
Stabilisers: Beiter+Shibuya V-Bar
Button: Beiter
Bow String: BCY 8125
Arrows: A/C/E 520

Setup
Bow:
String & Cables:
Sight:
Stabs:
Scope:
Launcher/Rest:
Arrows:
Release Aid:
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Québec CANADA
Posts: 221

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Go to Steve Ellison's place
http://www.tenzone.u-net.com/

Or to Joe Tapley's place
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/joetapley/

And look into the "tuning" sections

Enjoy!
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-07, 06:54 PM
In the Blue
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Helix 25"
Limbs: G3 42# Long
Sight: Shibuya Ultima
Stabilisers: Beiter+Shibuya V-Bar
Button: Beiter
Bow String: BCY 8125
Arrows: A/C/E 520

Setup
Bow:
String & Cables:
Sight:
Stabs:
Scope:
Launcher/Rest:
Arrows:
Release Aid:
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Québec CANADA
Posts: 221

Affiliations & Declarations (Click Here)
Affiliation:
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But never forget to do a relatively good paper test beforehand. Making sure that you are in a situation where you can have the arrows behave stiffer or weaker just by changing the button's pressure around a "medium" setting. That may mean some adjustments brought to the arrow's type, length, pile weight, and/or bracing height, etc.

If the young one is still growing up or expected to go up in draw weight, pelase do not choosea rrows that would have to be cut too short. You will then have to change arrows. If you start with longer arrows you will have leeway to work the arrows to keep them fitted to the growing archer and the archer's growing needs.

That may incur more checking from time to time since longer arrows tend to make the fletching touch a wee bit more if the arrows are not too well tuned.

Having two bare shafts serves to quickly check on tuning.

Quite easy but it takes some porcedure and attention, but it is well worth doing, for the sakes of fun and efficiency
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