Golds at 20yd but flying right at 60m?

[Jumile]

As some of you know, I started archery at the very end of the last outdoor season, so the only target experience I've had outdoors have been Frostbites and the AIUK Ironman Short Metric III. This evening I took my bow down to the club and fired it for the first time against a 60m target and now have flyers to right that confuse me a bit. I'm right-handed (bow in left hand).

As someone's bound to ask - my relevant kit is as follows: Exfeel riser with 36lb limbs, Fastflight string, 21cm bracing, Shibuya DualClick Standard sight, 27" draw length, 28½" 1816 PlatinumPlus arrows. The setup is identical - with one exception - to what I've been using indoors, and the sight pin as been about as far left as it can be (a concern I've been ignoring).

The only button tuning I've done so far is positioning the point relative to the string (2/3 of the point left of the string). Nothing else.

The sight extension bar had been set as far out as it will go, but today I set it as close to the riser as it would go to allow for distance. With the face centred on the boss, the arrows consistently flew just off the right side of the boss. If I aimed off (somewhere between the left edge of the boss and the black) they'd hit where they were supposed to. I'm fairly sure the extension arm and elevation plate were square and straight (so no bend to account for it).

It was a simple matter to wind the pin back in (to the right) and the arrows began hitting where they were supposed to, but I think my concerns are fairly straightforward:

• Why the need to adjust the windage so drastically?
• Is the spine to draw weight mismatch a contributing factor?
• Is it possible any glaring error in my form is being amplified by the distance?
• Will the lack of button tuning account for this?
• Is there anything I should have asked, but haven't?

I've not had a chance to try shorter distances yet, of course, so I don't know whether I'll have to proportionally adjust the windage, or whatever.

Any help gratefully received.

[DaveNick]

Hi, have a look at my Post on Pressure Button Settings (especially see the one from Kae). Is the plunger aligned on the centre of the shaft? (Mine was above centre) I adjusted the centre wheel nut so that the arrow is in line with the string (You could also try very slightly to the left) It may be you have too much pressure from the spring (I had too little) When you're checked these 3 have a look at you nocking point (mine was too high). I saw an immediate improvement and wishing you the same, cheers Dave

[Murray]

Form? Possibly (string picture? release quality?)
Tuning? Likely (arrow spine/button pressure - 1816s may simply be too weak)
Other issues? Possibly (clearance on outdoors clothes?)

You've pretty much covered everything else.

[MikeD]

Other possibilities:

• You are canting the bow
• Your sight track is not in alignment with your string.

1816 looks too weak at 28.5" for about 34lb on your fingers.
If you do find them too weak (retune to confirm) save yourself a lot of grief and replace them, or sell then to another improver (that holds 26-30lb) but please don't be tempted to cut them too short

[Jerry Tee]

See if you can borrow a couple of 1916's of about the same lenght to shoot from a fellow club member. See what they do.

[King Custard]

Obviously quick-check your equipment isnt producing these 'right arrows' first. It's very likely to be the tune of your gear producing this- particularly the arrow spine being too weak.
Although to be honest I have shot 1816's-29in arrows @ 28 DLwith 35lbs on the fingers and they flew GREAT - with a DACRON (slowww) string!!!

Then,
when youre done scratching your head, i do this a lot to be honest -
consider this:

60 yards is a LONG way when you've been looking at 20 meters for a good while. For some archers ( myself too in the past) the fear of not drawing enough arrow and falling short of the mark - subconciously produces the urge to pull MORE....
So changing the anchor point on the face further around the side of the face with a side anchor- and moving the pupil, string, apeture/pin, gold relationship.

Now - if you have a clicker - you'll still pull 'X' inches of arrow- but 'cos of the pupil/string/pin/gold line being off - you'll shoot more to the right as a right hander.
&- if you dont have a clicker maybe you are pulling more arrow...weakenning it....& thus producing right arrows.

It's Easy to find out if this is the case:
Have someone watch over you while you shoot 20 yards- then watch you while you shoot 60 yards. A keen eye will spot any flaw, and if it coincides with your right arrows.......Voila!

But I bet you're going to say you use a center anchor aren't you????
If so steal someone elses arrows for half an hour- something 'around' a 650 spine should be a little stiffer at the same length. And see how they shoot for you.
Quick word-
Before you go out throwing cash around for arrows to tune to sixty yards- remember that soon enough you'll want to shoot 80 or 100 yards which may require higher lb'age limbs & therefore another change of arrows.....
You may be going right now with these arrows - but can you make the longer distances now?? or will you be trading up limbs again in the near future to make the distance.
Be a shame to buy arrows perfect for 60 yds- and then realise that you cant make 80 with 'em. Best to borrow where you can.

Where's me fags - that's it! I been good- done me best - gimme a fag.
yup I failed in giving up. I cut down loads but didn't give up...there's always tomorrow

[geoffretired]

Try a bare shaft test to see if the arrows are weak.
If you can get the help of another archer, have them stand directly behind you when you are shooting. If they stand so they see your string(at full draw) directly down the middle of your limbs, they will be able to see whether nor not your sight is aimed at the gold from their viewpoint. If it looks to them as if you are aiming to left or right, there might be a string alingment/string picture issue.They get a better view of the arrow flight too which may show up something.

[clickerati]

Originally Posted by John (OSF)

1816 looks too weak at 28.5" for about 34lb on your fingers.
If you do find them too weak (retune to confirm) save yourself a lot of grief and replace them, or sell then to another improver (that holds 26-30lb) but please don't be tempted to cut them too short

I'm going to disagree with you on the 26-30lb comment. IIRC, these were once my arrows and I pull 28lbs on the fingers. They were far too stiff to me. I now use 1616s, which are a much better match.

[Jimster71]

Originally Posted by clickerati

I'm going to disagree with you on the 26-30lb comment. IIRC, these were once my arrows and I pull 28lbs on the fingers. They were far too stiff to me. I now use 1616s, which are a much better match.

Interesting, I use 1816s for a 29lbs pull at a 27" draw. I think the arrows are a bit longer than needed to allow for expansion in my draw, so the extra length probably compensates.

What length do you draw Clicki?