Arrows drifting left with distance

[pHz]

my sympathies are with you jim - i seem to be in a similar situation myself having changed limbs and done a (or what i thought was a reasonable) tune in the garden at 20 yards im now trying to sort out whats going askew now im back out at 50 and 60

time to dig out the bareshafts and find a reserve of patience for us both i fear

slainte rob

[TWIW]

Originally Posted by pHz

my sympathies are with you jim - i seem to be in a similar situation myself having changed limbs and done a (or what i thought was a reasonable) tune in the garden at 20 yards im now trying to sort out whats going askew now im back out at 50 and 60

time to dig out the bareshafts and find a reserve of patience for us both i fear

slainte rob

Not so.

First of all what surprises me is that neither you nor jimster71 have been given the information you need to set up your bow by established archers or coaches in your club!! If you were in my club (regardless of the fact that I am a coach) I would have offered to help you properly set up your equipment and tune your bow with you.

Do you know how to do a walk-back tune? Assuming that the equipment is assembled correctly and you don't have any glaring problems with your form this what you need to do now.

Do you know how to do a basic bare shaft tune?

The following document will give you all the information to correctly tune your bow.

http://www.tenzone.u-net.com/Equipme...s/tuning01.pdf

The document talks about using a single arrow for each move backwards away from the target, but if you are not confident that your grouping is good enough for that then shoot an end of arrows at each distance in the walk-back tune and mark the centre of the group. Use these marks to assess the tuning (or mis-tuning) of your bow as per the diagrams.

I would suggest starting your walk-back tuning at 20yds and move back 3 or 4 paces until the arrows strike near the bottom of the lower target. make the adjustments and repeat until you get a vertical line at the centre of your groupings.

Once you've done this start again at the longest distance from the first walk-back by adjusting your sight so that the arrows impact at the top of the target and repeat the walk-back (this where a sight-track parallel to the string is vital). Any tuning adjustments will be small ones to correct any errors.

Don't try to get a perfectly vertical line of your groups are large at distances over 40yds. Go for the best (near vertical) result consistant with your skill.

Colin

[pHz]

Originally Posted by thewayitwas

First of all what surprises me is that neither you nor jimster71 have been given the information you need to set up your bow by established archers or coaches in your club!! If you were in my club (regardless of the fact that I am a coach) I would have offered to help you properly set up your equipment and tune your bow with you.

i WAS helped to set my bow up (twice - once originally and once when i switched from ali to carbon / ali arrows) by more experienced archers at my club but to be TOTALLY honest i was never happy with either setup - all both sessions involved was a cursory centreshot check (not even that the first time) and 2 or 3 walkbacks out to a max of 30 meteres using a single boss

having read around the process quite a bit the problem i see for those of us less experienced is the variety of different opinions on which is the most effective tuning method

hmmmnnn

slainte : rob

[Vanya Goud]

Tuning can be a bit daunting, but before you do that take a good look at your sight. Is the vertical bar parallel to your string? Mine is slightly out, therefore as I move my sight down I have to move my pin slightly to the left. I know others with the same problem. Options: Shape the padding under your sight block mount to compensate and give a true parallel sight or for the less obsessive amoungst us, just get used to the amount you adjust it by. That comes with experience.

[dino1300]

Originally Posted by Vanya Goud

Tuning can be a bit daunting, but before you do that take a good look at your sight. Is the vertical bar parallel to your string? Mine is slightly out, therefore as I move my sight down I have to move my pin slightly to the left. I know others with the same problem. Options: Shape the padding under your sight block mount to compensate and give a true parallel sight or for the less obsessive amoungst us, just get used to the amount you adjust it by. That comes with experience.

Just looked up your sight and it has the adjustment needed to straighten it out.

First turn the sight over so the sight pin is almost touching the string. Then run the sight block up and down. It should run in a straight line.
If not, then loosen slightly the two allen bolts holding the track onto the extension arm and then gently twist the track until the sight tracks up and down in a straight line. Then re-tighten the bolts.

it may be necesary to straighten up the level of the sight pin. I have seen quite a few where they were set at 10deg down. So as you adjust windage, the height changes as well.

[TWIW]

Originally Posted by pHz

having read around the process quite a bit the problem i see for those of us less experienced is the variety of different opinions on which is the most effective tuning method

hmmmnnn

slainte : rob

You are right there are an awfull lot of methods but, for your declared standard a simple walk-back tune will ensure that the only windage adjustments you will need to majke will be to combat the weather. Whan you get to 1st Class let me know and I'll give you some more methods.

Colin

[dino1300]

Download the easton tuning guide from https://www.eastonarchery.com/downlo...ning_guide.zip

It is (possibly) the definitive guide that 90% of people use.