arrow clearance issues

[Munsterman]

Originally Posted by Chase Archer

Having just checked the Easton charts I have to agree with Shirt, 430s look like the most likely choice for your setup. 480s are ok too but they don't give you the flexibility of changing the point weights. Therefore 520s are far too weak and the most likely cause of your problems.

Thanks for the great advice. How much flexibility does changing the point give me in terms of effective change of spine? Obviously it will make the arrow firmer/weaker as appropriate, but is it likely to be sufficient to effectively move the spine up/down on the chart? One of my club colleagues also suggested using brass nocking points in place of the cotton floss type I now use. Would this really make any difference?

As my arrow is currently too weak (whippy?) I wonder if it accounts for the unexpected clean breaking in 2 of one of my arrows on impact with the target recently? I had put it down to unseen prior damage.

[Chase Archer]

Removing point weight will not have the kind of effect you are looking for, the amount of change you need is too much. A 540 Nav at your drawlegth would suit a bow of between 25lbs - 40lbs.

Adding brass nocking points is supposed to slow the string down compared to floss types but again, since I've not experimented with such things, I imagine the difference to be very small.

Things that would have an effect include winding the bow poundage down and fitting a string with more strands, but this is more work that may not pay off enough in the end.

If it was me I would bite the bullet and change the arrows.

[silver streak]

sounds like your spine is too weak, have you done a bare shaft test, and have you checked your centre shot?

[Munsterman]

I agree, new arrows is the way forwards. I was just intrigued by the endorsement of the 430 over the 480, and the reason for it. What point weight would be ideal, and if I went up or down by say 10 grains, would that be the equivalent of moving very far in the direction of another spine?

By the way, would the stiffer spine make much difference in the distance reached? I currently shoot out to 100 yrds. Would the heavier arrow weight be offset by the stiffer spine, and the resulting change in arrow behaviour.

[Shirt]

Originally Posted by GingerGeneCarrier

As my arrow is currently too weak (whippy?) I wonder if it accounts for the unexpected clean breaking in 2 of one of my arrows on impact with the target recently? I had put it down to unseen prior damage.

I've been wondering that because it happened to me a lot last season - that said, I have yet to buy a new set of arrows, and the ones that broke hadn't exactly been treated gently by either me or their previous owners...

[Chase Archer]

The reason for there being two spines is the weight on your fingers; it falls right on the boundary of two spines. This combined with it's better to have too stiff an arrow rather than a weaker one, I would go for the 430 with a heavier point weight than standard.

A 480 covers the range 41-45lbs, with you pulling 45lbs-ish this arrow is at the weaker end of its range, acceptable if you don't increase your drawlength any more or you don't want to increase your poundage for whatever reason.

With the 430 covering the 46-50lbs range this makes the arrow on the stiffer side but it does allow you to play around with point weights/ bow poundage and allows for increased drawlength (I'm not sure how long you have been shooting and therefore whether this is something you may find yourself doing if you are quite new to the sport, it can happen)

10 grains, I don't think, will move you very far in the spine range at all.

You will have no trouble at all hitting the 100yds with these arrows, I bet the sight mark won't move much at all.

This is only my own opinion and the way I would do it, others may have a different approach or advice, but I hope it helps.

[Munsterman]

Hi,

It all sounds like sound advice, and I have suspected that the arrow was too whippy for a while, but the Easton program seemed to contradict my instincts. I realised that the peak draw weight was borderline between 2 spines.

I have not tried the bareshaft test but I may give it a go anyway just for practice.

I have been shooting for just over a year, and still very much a junior student of the art hence all the questions.

Thanks for the explanations.

[Tuck]

Hi

I have about 45# on the fingers and with 29" shoot 520's with 120 grain piles.

Heavier piles increase foc (front of centre) ie how far forward the arrow balance is from its centre. This helps downrange arrow accuracy and grouping especially in adverse weather.

My arrows shoot OK to slightly weak.

Please get an accurate bow weight - any pro shop has a good spring balance - or use a digital fish scale!

As you have 40# limbs at 30" I would be very surprised if you were not pulling 45#++

Also the Easton charts are a GUIDE not a bible. Bare shaft and paper tuning are the only real way to check spine and arrow flight. But I suspect that 470-480 would be a safe choice. And if you could shave 1/2"off if required then there should be no doubt it can tune.

Check out the download on Easton's site of the arrow tuning guide - this shows how to tune. Also the Archers reference is a great resource.

http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloa...ning_guide.zip

http://www.archersreference.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/

BTW I am no better than most - shooting competitions without really tuning the arrows!

Shot today - complete **** partly due to seriously whippy sticks!

Still picked up a team medal courtesy of far better shooters than I - Team Ivanhoe!

[morphymick]

Hi GGC, just plugged your figures into TAP, as previously suggested, the 430's come out right in the middle of the range for your set-up.

Some license was given to bow weight, speed etc., but on average the 540's are definitely a no-no, and the 480's turned out weak to very weak in all cases.

Mick

[Munsterman]

Originally Posted by morphymick

Hi GGC, just plugged your figures into TAP, as previously suggested, the 430's come out right in the middle of the range for your set-up.

Some license was given to bow weight, speed etc., but on average the 540's are definitely a no-no, and the 480's turned out weak to very weak in all cases.

Mick

Thanks Mick. What is "TAP"? I will definitely be going with the 430 spine. The body of evidence is overwhelming. I contacted an on-line supplier yesterday and quite worryingly, they recommended 540s again. I gave them all the same info that I posted here in terms of set up and weight on the fingers. Just goes to show, there are good vendors and not so good vendors in this game, just like any other.