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| Stiffening arrows Hi all. I've read many times that stiff arrows can be compensated for by using a slightly heavier point or of course by increasing poundage. I just wondered if it works the other way? I'm using 30.5" 3L-18 A/C/C's with 100 grain points and spinwings, I'm drawing 39.5# on my fingers and the Easton charts say that the 3L-18's are not stiff enough by one group. Easton recommend T7/T8 and my arrows are in group T6. I only fitted the spinwings last week, I was using plastifletch fletches before, and have noticed that my arrows seem to take longer to stabilise in flight, would you normally expect that to happen? Would changing to 80g points help much? Thanks Paul. [edit] I should probably add that the bow seems to tune okay, centre shot is set up properly (arrow tip aligned left of string and in line with sight pin) and button pressure is set so the arrows hit fairly centrally at all distances. Bare shafts at 50y land slightly to the right of the group (by around 12"). |
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| You can stiffen an arrow mainly by decreasing poundage, decreasing pile weight, increasing spring tension in the button or shortening the arrow. Increasing the brace height and adding weight to the 'back end' of the arrow (eg. heavier fletchings and nocks) will also stiffen the arrow slightly. If your bare shaft is hitting within 12" of the fletched group at 50y then you are not too far away from a good tune. I would first of all increase spring tension and look if you can shorten the arrow at all, even half an inch will have a noticable effect. This plus increasing the BH may be all you need. Personally I like to use as heavy a pile as I can so reducing pile weight will help tune the arrow but they will drift more in the wind and not fly as well.
__________________ A wise man can learn from the biggest fool. |
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| If you have enough height on your sight marks add two brass nocks to the string. Any weight on the back of the arrow or the nocking point will stiffen the dynamic spine. If it works OK then cut the slot in the tab to fit out side the two brass nocks and make sure that you locate the tab before you draw and this will ensure that the tab and fingers are in the same position every time.
__________________ I am not a grumpy old man, I am a cynical senior citizen |
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| Additionally you could use a "heavier" string. How many strands do you actually have? NIBB points insert section might also be longer, thus stiffening your shaft. If you can afford cutting down your length, that also works. |
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| All of the above are common ways to change the dynamics of the arrow the only one missing is a cleaner release. Also you may be inducing the extra movement in the arrow flight by unintentionally peeking just after release to watch how they are flying, something I was doing recently with a new set of ACE's. Also it seems a shame that you buy into all the benefits and cost of the Inno and then undo the speed/stability benefits by having to make your old arrows fit for purpose. Which afterall are top of the list when it comes to equipment. |
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| Thanks for all the responses. I can't cut any length from the shafts I'm afraid, they are perfect length already. I think the arrows have been a good match for my setup, and they are still very close. The only thing that changed recently was fitting the spinwings and I can't help thinking that they have weakened the arrows slightly. To find out if that has made the difference I'm going to fit some different fletches to three arrows and do a comparison next week. I'm also going to try some 80g piles to see how that changes the arrows characteristics, more out of curiosity than anything. I'll let you know if I get anywhere - thanks again for the tips. Paul. |
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