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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-07, 01:20 PM
teddybear's Avatar
In the Blue
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: long bow 40lbs
Sight: mark 1 eye ball
Stabilisers: arm
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: Boynton pine medie

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what would be a good recurve bow to upgrade to?

hi i have a wooden bow and i wont to up grade what would be a good raiser and lims thanks
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-07, 02:04 PM
In the White
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 29
whats your aims!

What is your main type of archery?, what do you shoot now? whats good and bad about what you shoot now?

that should help folks scratch the heads for suggestions!
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-07, 02:40 PM
Ski's Avatar
Ski Ski is offline
Left handed: Right minded
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Win & Win Exfeel
Limbs: W&W - Winus Carbon
Sight: Merlin Omega
Stabilisers: TRIADS Oh YES,YES
Button: Cartel Micro Click
Bow String: Fast Flight
Arrows: Navs, Triples & ACC

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Location: Lancashire
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teddybear View Post
hi i have a wooden bow and i wont to up grade what would be a good raiser and lims thanks
How much do you want to spend?

What do you fancy?

How much equipment do you want?

Are you in a club?

The questions are endless.

The more we know then more accurate advice can be given.


A good start is to join a club.
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-07, 02:47 PM
Tom's Avatar
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  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: by Bernardini Ghibli
Limbs: W&W Synerzy
Sight: Shibuya Ultima
Stabilisers: Merlin, Cartel, K&K
Button: Shibuya DX
Bow String: 8125
Arrows: Navigators

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Quote:
Originally Posted by teddybear View Post
hi i have a wooden bow and i wont to up grade what would be a good raiser and lims thanks
As an intermediate riser I'd suggest going with something like the Hoyt Eclipse or the Sebastien Flute.

As for limbs it all depends on your budget and whether you intend to move up in poundage in the near future. If you have a stable draw weight any of the carbon/woodcore limbs in the £150 - £200 bracket would do the job well.

The bottom line is try before you buy if at all possible
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-07, 04:26 PM
darthTer's Avatar
In the Gold
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Seb Flute Pro
Limbs: W&W Synerzy 38#
Sight: Arten Europa
Stabilisers: Merlin ActiveBalance
Button: Shibuya
Bow String: SDM BCY8125 Black/Silver
Arrows: Carbon Impact 450

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I would support the suggestion for either the Eclipse or Seb Flute. I was trying to decide between these two - the eclipse won in the end....just. Both are very nice risers and at a good price.

At the moment I would suggest investing slightly more in your riser than the limbs. The riser will last you a lot longer. The limbs you will probably look to change in maybe 6-8 months. Somthing like the KAP Challengers/Winstorms would probably serve you well for the time being!!!
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-07, 05:30 PM
teddybear's Avatar
In the Blue
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: long bow 40lbs
Sight: mark 1 eye ball
Stabilisers: arm
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: Boynton pine medie

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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: pembrokeshire
Posts: 146
I'm in a club i use ruffly a 3olbs mark i use a sight with my bow what is the lbs that most people use for competitions ?
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-07, 11:05 PM
Ski's Avatar
Ski Ski is offline
Left handed: Right minded
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Win & Win Exfeel
Limbs: W&W - Winus Carbon
Sight: Merlin Omega
Stabilisers: TRIADS Oh YES,YES
Button: Cartel Micro Click
Bow String: Fast Flight
Arrows: Navs, Triples & ACC

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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 249
As you are in a club, is there anyone there who can offer first hand advice and possibly try pulling on their bow?

You can get good distances from a draw weight of 30 pounds plus. Many draw around 36 – 45 pounds. But you will have to build up to the higher draw weights.

Going too high too quick will not do you any favours. High draw weights does not necessarily mean better. Several good archers on this forum have improved by dropping a few pounds.

Use what is comfortable.
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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-07, 11:17 PM
pmiddl's Avatar
In the Blue
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Hoyt Matrix, Jager grip
Limbs: W&W Winex 32#
Sight: Shibuya Ultima Carb.
Stabilisers: ACE with Doinkers
Button: Shibuya DX
Bow String: 8125, Halo serving
Arrows: ACE 670, X7 2012

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Location: Loughborough Uni.
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i went from wooden club bows to a Hoyt GM, and I think thats a good first move. They are really cheap to start with and second hand ones come up on eBay all the time. ILF limbs too, so you can buy second hand ones too just to start off with to keep the price down
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 08-08-07, 09:17 AM
Russ's Avatar
In the Red
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Hoyt Eclipse/Ortho grip
Limbs: Hoyt M1 #40/70"
Sight: Shibuya Ult./Beiter
Stabilisers: 2 x 24 sit-ups
Button: Shibuya DX
Bow String: StringFlex 8125 18st
Arrows: Cartel Triple 500/29.5"

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Location: Copenhagen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ski View Post
You can get good distances from a draw weight of 30 pounds plus. Many draw around 36 – 45 pounds. But you will have to build up to the higher draw weights.

Going too high too quick will not do you any favours. High draw weights does not necessarily mean better. Several good archers on this forum have improved by dropping a few pounds.
Nicely put, Ski. When I upgraded from my club bow, I bought #34 limbs... and a few months later met a "real" coach who explained why I should be able to hold my bow at full draw for a full minute.

I still can't hold #34 for a full minute (can almost do it with the old #28 club bow) and am wishing I'd had the good advice a bit earlier.
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 08-08-07, 09:57 AM
gilf's Avatar
In the Black
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: ACS CX 62" 51#@28
Sight:
Stabilisers:
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: Wood

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ View Post
Nicely put, Ski. When I upgraded from my club bow, I bought #34 limbs... and a few months later met a "real" coach who explained why I should be able to hold my bow at full draw for a full minute.
Care to share that knowledge with us? Genuinely Interested why it's considered that you need to hold at full draw for a minute?
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