Got a new toy...

[acehero]

Treat myself to a new setup at the weekend. Hoyt Matrix riser with SF carbon foam 36# limbs. Wasnt planning on spending as much as the matrix but when i got to the shop it felt much better in my hand when drawing than the Eclipse and other one i looked at - plus the big discount on them at the moment made it a deal i couldnt refuse Shoots really sweet compared to my last bow, which was just a training bow.

I've armed myself with a copy of Eastons tuning guide and cant wait to get stuck into tuning it. Its not far off at all as it was set up pretty close in the shop. But does new equipment need a shooting in period for everything to "settle"? If its too soon to tune it any finer theres plenty of other stuff to do on the range. Need to get some new rough sight marks (I realise they will change ever so slightly after fully tuning it) and of course I need my own "shooting in" to get used to this bow

[Jerry Tee]

Tuning is a kind of 'push me pull you' thing. The better you can shoot the finer you can tune and the finer the tune the more confidence you have so the better you shoot. Just do the bare shaft tune for the time being and get used to the bow.

[Mistake]

Originally Posted by acehero

But does new equipment need a shooting in period for everything to "settle"?

One word answer: Yes


Basically the riser etc should be fine as this dosn't/ shouldn't much movement during the shot, where as the bow limbs do need to be shot in a bit (especally if they are new limbs) before you should really start trying to tune them. This applies even more if your not used to the bow because you've just got an entire new set up.

[wingate_52]

Just shoot it and get used to it. Only make one ajustment at a time, see how it goes before changing anything else.

[Russ]

Congrats on the new bow!

There are a couple of threads on this forum on James Park's method of tuning a recurve bow. It's a lot simpler than going through the Easton guide, and I found it gave me good results (much better than “just shooting" until I figured stuff out).

[numpty]

Russ do you have a link to that thread ????? Pls

[Russ]

Sure, here's a couple of them:

http://www.archery-interchange.com/f...-one-them.html

http://www.archery-interchange.com/f...-numpties.html

...and here's another (the original, from Australia):

Tuning a recurve bow - Archery Forum

Sorry about the ungainly-looking long links, maybe some kindly monitor will trim them down? I still haven't figured out how to do that...

[pHz]

Originally Posted by Russ

Congrats on the new bow!
There are a couple of threads on this forum on James Park's method of tuning a recurve bow. It's a lot simpler than going through the Easton guide, and I found it gave me good results (much better than “just shooting" until I figured stuff out).

wholeheartedly agree about the park method - as an inexperienced archer i used it on my current setup as it was the easiest to get my my head round - finally got round to checking that initial tuning (done at 20 yards) with a longer walkback from the archers reference yesterday and it was pretty spot on (within 1/8 of a turn of button centreshot with tension showing no anomalies) back to 50 yards

slainte rob

[Erika]

Originally Posted by pHz

wholeheartedly agree about the park method

of course it's easy.. he has to explain it to me.

Jim had a lot of fun meeting and greeting in Leipzig. It's a shame he couldn't come to Dover and meet more from AIUK - he's a lovely man.

[Erika]

Originally Posted by Mistake

where as the bow limbs do need to be shot in a bit (especally if they are new limbs)

Uh no they don't. Beyond the first shot to settle them into the pockets (not necessary with my G3s, but sometimes with my M1s) a decent set of limbs should be ready to shoot out of the box.