xx75 arrow selection

[acehero]

Hi

Bought a new bow at the weekend - Hoyt Matrix, Seb Flute 36# limbs - and was supplied with 8 Easton xx75 Platinum Plus arrows, size 1916. I had a look at the Easton arrow selection chart here at as far as I can tell, it is suggesting i should have 2016's. I have a 29" draw length so pull about 38# (and this was measured in the shop on his scales, so is about right) and the arrows are 30.25" long from the start of the shaft to the bottom of the "U" on the nock.

I've shot this twice now and notice the arrows seem to fish-tail a lot and enter the target pointing either up or down, but not perfectly straight. The effect is less so at longer ranges, where im assuming the arrow has had more time to stabilise in flight. Was putting it down to needing more tuning until i looked at the chart. Have I been given weak arrows for my setup?

[pmiddl]

36#, 29" puts 1916 in your range when I checked the chart? Never trust the charts anyway, some people find being slightly out of their recommended range works better

[acehero]

Yes the limbs say 36#, and my draw is 29". But that means I actually have 38# on my figners. Not that it matters, as the chart im looking at uses the range 36-40 These arrows are over 30" long though and so I should be looking at the charts for 30" vs 38# right?

[djthompson]

Sorry to hear your arrows aren't shooting well.

my draw is 27" with 28.5" arrows (nock to point).

I shoot 1916 XX75's with a Yamaha (39lb at 26" - or circa 41 on my finger tips)

this setup works well for me.

These arrows replaced 1716 JAZZ arrows - which had ripped fletches all the time (according to the chart - they should be used on much weaker bows). They were 2nd hand (and cheap); but boy, all those ripped fletches - man that's frustating.

I would suggest that your nock point may need adjusting + the strength and position of your button?

Rgds, Dave

[acehero]

Yes I was just about to start playing around with the nock point when I decided to check the chart first. Dont want to waste loads of time trying to set up if the arrows just arent quite right, especially as theyre new. The guy may have just accidentally looked at the wrong column on his chart, but i dont want to ring up and start a fuss if its me thats looking at the wrong column.

The pressure button position looks right, and did some walk back tests yesterday which resulted in me getting the tension good, but still with the arrows entering at angles - and not consistently the same either.

[worthipa]

Originally Posted by acehero

Yes the limbs say 36#, and my draw is 29". But that means I actually have 38# on my figners. Not that it matters, as the chart im looking at uses the range 36-40 These arrows are over 30" long though and so I should be looking at the charts for 30" vs 38# right?

I assume they gave you a "safe" length of arrow at the shop, just trim an inch off and you'll be fine!

[worstwhiteblues]

Hi,

I recently purchased a new set up, including:

Limbs: 34lb @ 28"
Arrows: XX75, 2016, 30" length (that's 38lb on fingers)

This is as per the Easton chart (T7), the bow and arrows seem to be well suited, there is probably a lack of ability in the operator though....!

Hope all goes well for you

Martin

[Jerry Tee]

Down load and read the Easton tuning guide. Go to Easton Archery: HOME click on down loads.(While you are there you might as well download the 2006 shaft selector as well) Once you have read the guide it should be clear that you need to do a bare shaft tune to get the nocking point height right first. strip the fletches off one of your arrows and start at close range 15 meters and shoot your self in a bit first.
If you are worried that you might not be able to shoot well enough to give consistant results, the use two fletched arrows and one bare shaft and repeat the test three or four times. Mark the holes that the arrows make each time with a felt tip pen, crosses for the fletched arrows circles for the bare shaft. You will start to see an area where the two types of arrows impact. mark the center of the areas and use that as a guide to any alterations you are going to make.
Once you have done that you should have a much clearer idea of what is going on. if you have any questions post and I will try to answer them. or some one else will.

[acehero]

Well this is the thing, dont want to shoot them any more if they're wrong so I can take them back and change them before theyre damaged. I'll just ring the shop up today and talk to them I think, be the quickest way of sorting it. Will report back if theres any interesting outcome. Thanks for the replies so far. By the way, was I reading the selection chart right?

[djthompson]

Taking a look at the spine chart on this link - for your draw length the 1916s sound spot on:

http://www.archery-interchange.com/f...on_Arrow_Chart

Rgds, Dave