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| Quarter inch to eight inch more at top is the standard starting point for every bow. Its to do with you fingers not the bow length. I have never noticed performance difference with slightly different tillers. Keep it between 1/4 and 1/8 inch more on top and all should be rosey.
__________________ The Italian stalions www.bybernardini.com |
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| Tiller is not just dependent on the riser. It is more dependent on the limbs you use, in combination with the riser and you own form. |
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| I set all my bows at the measurements I already mentioned. I have never really noticed any problems with any of the bows set at those limits. However I have never really tested for tiller so I cant say its ever been perfect but I have never noticed any difference. However I have recently taken to going for about 1/8inch.
__________________ The Italian stalions www.bybernardini.com |
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| my bow was set at 0 originally. but i found that. it was tilting up then down while drawing. after i'd set it to 1/4". all that tilting problems were gone! but i wonder if i need to set it agian when a stabilizer and v bars are installed! |
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| Also remember that the height of the nocking point interacts with tiller. If you tune the nocking point correctly, then alter the tiller, you can re-adjust the nocking point to restore the setup. I set the tiller in the middle of the range and use tthe nocking point for tuning. My Helix tips upwards without stabilisers, but I am sure it was designed to be used with a long rod. I alter the "feel" with stabilisers rather than the tiller, then tune the nocking point and button. |
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| I always shot my W&W bows with just about equal tiller. Shot a 590 Portsmouth with one and a 591 with the other. As a rough check, try drawing back very slowly whilst aiming at a target. If the bow has a tendancy to move up slightly as you draw back reduce the poundage on the upper limb and vice versa.
__________________ A wise man can learn from the biggest fool. |
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| there's a good bit about the tiller 'myth' in THA by vittorio the gist of it is; that tiller was *thought* to put more stress on one limb or another to make that limb work faster, to get synchronised limb action in a bow which is not held in the centre. however in reality modern recurve bows are either gripped in the centre if your technique is poor, or not gripped at all if you technique is good. furthermore modern limbs are designed to work on zero tiller. anyway, due to laws of physics and such, the limbs must always take equal amounts of the stress (one that is worked harder will relax and the other will take the tension, until they are in equilibrium). so now, tiller adjustment serves only to rotate the riser in between the limbs, and doesn't really affect the limbs at all. since excessive tiller just uses up space inside your limb pockets, its better to set tiller to zero. yawn.. before boredom kills even me, ill just finish by saying; i have set my bow on +6mm, +4mm, +2mm, and zero over the years, and not noticed any difference in the shooting consistency of the bow |
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| Nice to know Vittorio agrees with me!
__________________ A wise man can learn from the biggest fool. |
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