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Old 19-01-08, 11:50 AM
cestria's Avatar
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String Making, To Tie or Not to Tie

I'm going to have a go and make my own strings.
I've read all I can find, and have a good idea about string making.
There is one thing which doesn't seem to be consistent between the various makers however, and that is whether to tie the ends of the strings together or to leave them untied and hide them under the end serving.
Any thoughts behind either option?
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Old 19-01-08, 11:56 AM
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I'm of the 'overlap under the end serving' school - just tie the ends temporarily to opposing posts (or opposite ends if you're going for an odd number of strands!) until you've done the loop part of the serving then snip off the excess. Never had a problem yet....
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Old 19-01-08, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tel View Post
I'm of the 'overlap under the end serving' school - just tie the ends temporarily to opposing posts (or opposite ends if you're going for an odd number of strands!) until you've done the loop part of the serving then snip off the excess. Never had a problem yet....
Same here.

I found it really important to write down every little measurement used. i.e. length of serving, where you start serving the loop from, where you end it before turning the end bar etc.... you'll figure out what I'm on about.

I found that the first couple of strings I made were a bit haphazard and it takes a little practice to get it right so don't try to get it right first time, try and learn as much as you can for the next one.

Best of British luck, and let us know how you get on!
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Old 19-01-08, 12:57 PM
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Tip

If you show any signs of not getting your string tension consistency exactly right during your string-making, you can go around the jig with an extra lap of string, knot the ends firmly then with a pull pushing motion of the string around the jig several times and then reverse the direction the tensions will become evened out, then simply tension the jig up fully, (I step on the bottom post, pull like mad on the top tighten in place and let it rest for an hour before commencing with the end loop serving). Serve the bottom loop with the knotted end at the opposite end of the jig 1st, then eek out the two stands that are from each side of the knot and cut them out (including the knot) and loose them when finishing the bottom loop, then complete the string as normal, this method although somewhat more pain-stacking in manufacture and at the cost of the extra string material results in a string that is more consistent from the off due to the much more even string tension and shows little signs of stretch when shooting. don't tell anyone though it's a closely guarded secret.

Last edited by buzz lite beer; 19-01-08 at 03:15 PM.
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Old 19-01-08, 01:16 PM
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I tie the ends in a reef knot, as I don't want anything to go wrong (I got into the habit when I made compound strings and cables - I didn't want anything to go wrong.
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Old 19-01-08, 01:52 PM
It's an X
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I make strings for compounds and recurves and never tie the ends. I was told that a knot would make one strand of the string "fixed" under the serving where the rest can settle a little. I think it's true to say, knots aren't needed.
I like Buzz's idea of the extra lap and the "foot bow" method of tensioning.
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Old 19-01-08, 02:07 PM
cestria's Avatar
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Riser: Browning S3
Limbs: KG Apex
Sight: Seb Flute Carbon
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Button: Beiter Jewellry
Bow String: BCY 8125
Arrows: Easton X10

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I've managed to get hold of an Arco Spigarelli jig, which I believe can wind a fair degree of tension in the string. So hopefully not too much foot pressure required.
I have a couple of old wooden bows which need strings, so I was going to use these for the experiments before 'wasting' expensive string.

Quote:
don't tell anyone though it's a closely guarded secret
My lips are sealed
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Last edited by cestria; 19-01-08 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 19-01-08, 02:12 PM
buzz lite beer's Avatar
shoots a mean X10
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Limbs: Winex@46lb
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Stabilisers: SF
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Arrows: X10 450

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Quote:
Originally Posted by geoffretired View Post
I make strings for compounds and recurves and never tie the ends. I was told that a knot would make one strand of the string "fixed" under the serving where the rest can settle a little. I think it's true to say, knots aren't needed.
I like Buzz's idea of the extra lap and the "foot bow" method of tensioning.
Not completely my idea, a tip given to me from aardvark's very own Les Newsome many moons ago.

And Cestria it's not how tight the tension is on whatever jig that's important it's how consistent the tension is from strand to strand, do your experiments using dacron B-50 like what I'm doing with my Baljinima Tsyrempilov Flemish-esk strings at present.
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Old 19-01-08, 02:22 PM
cestria's Avatar
Proud To Be Different
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Browning S3
Limbs: KG Apex
Sight: Seb Flute Carbon
Stabilisers: Beiter
Button: Beiter Jewellry
Bow String: BCY 8125
Arrows: Easton X10

Compound Script currently under construction
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Co. Durham
Posts: 389
Quote:
And Cestria it's not how tight the tension is on whatever jig that's important it's how consistent the tension is from strand to strand, do your experiments using dacron B-50 like what I'm doing with my Baljinima Tsyrempilov Flemish-esk strings at present.
Gotcha, thanks
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Old 19-01-08, 02:40 PM
It's an X
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"Not completely my idea, a tip given to me from aardvark's very own Les Newsome many moons ago."
Buzz, that's a very honest reply. It's still a good idea, too!
My string making jig is homemade. The posts have 15mm copper pipe over them so I can roll the strands round the whole jig in an attempt to even out the tensions.Seems to work.
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