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| I'm of the 'overlap under the end serving' school - just tie the ends temporarily to opposing posts (or opposite ends if you're going for an odd number of strands!) until you've done the loop part of the serving then snip off the excess. Never had a problem yet.... ![]()
__________________ "When all is said and done, there will be nothing left to say or do......" |
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I found it really important to write down every little measurement used. i.e. length of serving, where you start serving the loop from, where you end it before turning the end bar etc.... you'll figure out what I'm on about. I found that the first couple of strings I made were a bit haphazard and it takes a little practice to get it right so don't try to get it right first time, try and learn as much as you can for the next one. Best of British luck, and let us know how you get on! ![]()
__________________ Never try and apply physics to a bald, fat, middle aged bloke. It won't work. |
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| Tip If you show any signs of not getting your string tension consistency exactly right during your string-making, you can go around the jig with an extra lap of string, knot the ends firmly then with a pull pushing motion of the string around the jig several times and then reverse the direction the tensions will become evened out, then simply tension the jig up fully, (I step on the bottom post, pull like mad on the top tighten in place and let it rest for an hour before commencing with the end loop serving). Serve the bottom loop with the knotted end at the opposite end of the jig 1st, then eek out the two stands that are from each side of the knot and cut them out (including the knot) and loose them when finishing the bottom loop, then complete the string as normal, this method although somewhat more pain-stacking in manufacture and at the cost of the extra string material results in a string that is more consistent from the off due to the much more even string tension and shows little signs of stretch when shooting. don't tell anyone though it's a closely guarded secret.Last edited by buzz lite beer; 19-01-08 at 03:15 PM. |
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| I tie the ends in a reef knot, as I don't want anything to go wrong (I got into the habit when I made compound strings and cables - I didn't want anything to go wrong.
__________________ If archery was easy, everyone would shoot. as it is, there are some of the best people who shoot - those who can control their own minds!!! |
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| I make strings for compounds and recurves and never tie the ends. I was told that a knot would make one strand of the string "fixed" under the serving where the rest can settle a little. I think it's true to say, knots aren't needed. I like Buzz's idea of the extra lap and the "foot bow" method of tensioning. |
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| I've managed to get hold of an Arco Spigarelli jig, which I believe can wind a fair degree of tension in the string. So hopefully not too much foot pressure required. I have a couple of old wooden bows which need strings, so I was going to use these for the experiments before 'wasting' expensive string. Quote:
__________________ Don't think...............Just shoot. Last edited by cestria; 19-01-08 at 02:19 PM. |
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And Cestria it's not how tight the tension is on whatever jig that's important it's how consistent the tension is from strand to strand, do your experiments using dacron B-50 like what I'm doing with my Baljinima Tsyrempilov Flemish-esk strings at present. |
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__________________ Don't think...............Just shoot. |
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| "Not completely my idea, a tip given to me from aardvark's very own Les Newsome many moons ago." Buzz, that's a very honest reply. It's still a good idea, too! My string making jig is homemade. The posts have 15mm copper pipe over them so I can roll the strands round the whole jig in an attempt to even out the tensions.Seems to work. |
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