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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 13-03-08, 09:43 AM
It's an X
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Poole uk
Posts: 4,575
If anyone needs help with any aspect of their archery, there will help available from members of this forum. That is a strength.
There is another aspect to this forum too. Advice is offered and then the contributers start to share ideas with one another, sometimes with conflicting opinions. That is when the contributers can get themselves onto a learning curve.
This thread is taking on a life of its own.Does the long rod wait till form has reached a certain level;or does it go on now and improve the form through being there?
A long rod can steady the aim and help in that way.
A long rod can mask some faults or even add to some.
It is not all good; nor all bad, or am I wrong?
Learning to shoot well can be straightforward, if you have the right help!
With the right help, learning to shoot well without the long rod, soon becomes shooting well with one.
With the right help, shooting almost from the outset with a long rod, soon becomes shooting well.
I am sitting on the fence as I don't think there is enough evidence to say one way is better, in every case, than the other. Does the beginner get taken into acount? Some seem to benefit from a long rod as soon as it is fitted. Some find it makes their life difficult so decide to wait and try again later.
I think good quality help is more important than the timing of the long rod use.
Imagine, " That archer is shooting well, but you can tell he was told to use a long rod too soon."
or " That archer is shooting well but you can tell he didn't use a long rod soon enough."
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 13-03-08, 01:06 PM
In the Red
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Winact
Limbs: Winex
Sight: Summit
Stabilisers: W&W HMC
Button: Shibuya DX
Bow String: TS-Plus
Arrows: 3L-18, FlexFletch

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Sitting on the fence? I don't think so; offering a balance? Yes.

My own belief is that the bow needs to be setup properly given the constrainst of limited form from the archer, so, for example this means a centreshot at a good starting point with a button... even the cheapest model.

The bow must also not distract the archer from developing a good technique and for this I believe a weight in the bottom of the riser (towards the back of the bow) can encourage novices to shoot with a relaxed bow hand but this is not the same as using a long-rod for aiming stability.

I do believe that many, perhaps most, novices will see their ability grow beyond simply 'shooting well' in a faster time-frame if they take a little longer to know their body and how to control it during the shot sequence before adding stabilisation.

Many an experienced barebow archer will demonstrate a higher shooting ability than an "all the gear and no idea" recurve archer relying on stabilisation.

Could I tell if an experienced and capable archer had a long rod 'too soon or too late'? No I don't think I could as it is too far down the line. Can I spot a new archer with poor form but relying on stabilisation? Probably yes... from my armchair. :
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 13-03-08, 02:12 PM
It's an X
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Poole uk
Posts: 4,575
Cimbian, a nice post if I may say so.
Nothing to disagree with either. What is important, from my point of view, is the reasoning behind the statements. As far as I am able to tell, all your reasoning is sound. A student in your care, following your plan, would do well, I feel. It could be said that another student, following the same plan but with poor supervision could end up less well. I appreciate that that does not make the plan incorrect.The plan needs the follow up from the coach; as does the "long rod now" plan.
Both plans need good follow up from their respective coaches.
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 13-03-08, 02:18 PM
In the Red
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Winact
Limbs: Winex
Sight: Summit
Stabilisers: W&W HMC
Button: Shibuya DX
Bow String: TS-Plus
Arrows: 3L-18, FlexFletch

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Quote:
Originally Posted by geoffretired View Post
Cimbian, a nice post if I may say so.
You may, sir!
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 18-03-08, 10:55 AM
In the White
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: 25" Hoyt Gold Medallist
Limbs: Kap T-REX 26#
Sight: Cartel Championship
Stabilisers: Cartel Pro-gold
Button: Cartel Expert
Bow String: 8125
Arrows: 31" Easton Jazz 1916

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Cheers Guys

Thought I'd provide a quick update - got the button on at the start of last night with a bit of help - I know it's not fully tuned but it didn't seem to adversely affect my shooting.

Also tried the longrod towards the end of the session and certainly felt the difference.

I will however bear in mind everything said about working on form rather than hiding behind tech aids
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 18-03-08, 12:50 PM
Jerry Tee's Avatar
It's an X
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Revolution
Limbs: 38lb winacts
Sight: Arten Oylimpic
Stabilisers: Clickers, K&K twins
Button: SF
Bow String: 14 strand fast flight
Arrows: 1816

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Location: Suffolk
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Modern recurves are designed to be shot with at least a long rod on. Also a long rod will make it a lot easier to use a sling preferablely a finger sling. Learn to shoot the bow with an open hand, let the sling catch the bow. That way the bow not affected by you gripping the bow. Shooting this way will for 95% of archers improve your accuracy
I agree that taking everything off the bow has a value as far as form goes for experienced archers but only after having learned how to shoot with an open hand as that is a vital bit of form. When you are happier with you performance with the bow fitted with a longrod and button and you can use a finger sling without grabbing at the bow ,then go back and see what you are like with out them and see if you have developed any from issues.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 18-03-08, 01:46 PM
In the Black
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Browning S3
Limbs: Winex - 70 inch, 36lb
Sight: Skorten
Stabilisers: Bieter - 36 inch
Button: Shibuya DX
Bow String: 8125 Black and red
Arrows: ACC 3-28

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Location: Norwich
Posts: 74
I have had problems setting up my button, but the bow came with it. Its OK now I think.
Buttons seem to have to be set up by people who really really know what they are doing!

The longrod on the other hand... I loved this from the start, but it took me several months to use it right. When you finally get to grips with shooting with an "open hand" the longrod really finally kicks in. Until the point of "open hand" the longrod is just a toy, but its the only way I found I could be confortable opening my hand (with a sling on of course!)

The Longrod and "open hand" have been my 2nd biggest improvement in self taught form so far

Oh, one tip.... once semi used to a logrod, try out the different types out there (ally, carbon, with dampers, without, bieter etc) there are huge differences in the way they feel, and with the way the shot cycle feels.

I didnt get on with the carbon ones, too low a frequency with or without a damper, and most wernt long enough for me to rest my bow on the floor.
I ended up getting a dirty great long bieter one, much higher frequency, and slightly more damped on my bow Who cares if its all in the mind, it looks awesome!
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 18-03-08, 05:39 PM
Hodgelett's Avatar
In the Blue
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: W&W Evolution
Limbs: 30lb Evos
Sight: A what? :D
Stabilisers:
Button: Cartel?
Bow String: FF
Arrows: X7 Eclipses

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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ldn/Ebourne/Sweden
Posts: 169
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Tee View Post
Modern recurves are designed to be shot with at least a long rod on. Also a long rod will make it a lot easier to use a sling preferablely a finger sling. Learn to shoot the bow with an open hand, let the sling catch the bow. That way the bow not affected by you gripping the bow. Shooting this way will for 95% of archers improve your accuracy
I agree that taking everything off the bow has a value as far as form goes for experienced archers but only after having learned how to shoot with an open hand as that is a vital bit of form. When you are happier with you performance with the bow fitted with a longrod and button and you can use a finger sling without grabbing at the bow ,then go back and see what you are like with out them and see if you have developed any from issues.
I've heard you shouldn't shoot with a longrod unless you have a sling. Is that a myth?
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