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| Hi Malcom, Quote:
Quote:
Did the course, and then used club bows for about a couple of months - a very kind club member let me borrow a decent wooden recurve for a few weeks - which certainly helped my confidence. I think what tipped the balance and made the decision to buy was when we went outside and I just couldn't get distances at all on the club bows. So - yup credit card itching in pocket off we went to the shop ... the coaches at the club had been pretty good in talking to us about buying and so I was heading in with the idea of getting the best riser I could that was most comfortable - with reasonable everything else that I knew would be changed at some later date. So setup 1 - Matrix riser, KAP limbs (T-Rex as you know them), generic simple sight and Jazz Arrows, off the shelf string. No longrod, no button, simple stick on rest, no clicker. That lasted probably about 4 months (added the longrod about 2 months in). second setup - Matrix Riser (kept that) - added a button and changed the rest to a mag rest. Next change was very shortly afterwards and changed my limbs to a pair of Winex limbs. very shortly afterwards - I changed the sight to a Shibuya Dual Click. And that's where I am at present - with the exception of having some custom made strings, which seem to be working out really nicely. Quote:
Recently I've been to the Archery Warehouse - since it's closer for me - and Mike down there has been really good in helping me tune things. I would be happy to recommend either of those 2 as a good dealer. I don't have first hand experience of others. Looking back - I was quite keen to buy, but did do as the coaches said and held back - was it the right decision - YES. Frustrating, but yes. Taking their advice on getting a good riser and knowing I'ld change limbs etc - again with hindsight - frustrating and yes the right decision. It all takes a while - and there is no "one size fits all" solution to getting your own gear - just listen to the coaches and experienced archers - somewhere in that advice and your enthusiasm there will be the right path !! And then following that path you too can end up shooting in falling snow on a Bank holiday Monday just like the rest of we warped beings ![]() There's "my story" - hope that helps, and welcome to the frustrating/enjoyable/depressing/elating/wonderful world of archery !! cheers Grep.
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| Lets see, I used club equipment for nearly a year before buying my first set up. Which was helpful because it meant I didn't waste money on equipment that would need changing in a short space of time. My first set up was an SF riser/Limbs, CBA are very good at helping you get set up. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| A friend went to Custom Built Archery for her first set up and I can say I was fairly impressed with how they worked with her. I went to quicks, they didn’t have the bow I wanted and so I had to go online. Bowsports provided the bow (sans instructions) although there appeared to be a basic set up with regards the rest and nocking points were in the right place. I then returned to Quicks for arrows. I got KAP limbs at 32lb which were perfect I believe for the beginner in terms of smoothness. However I’m very jealous of the free upgrade to SF SHC limbs my friend got at CBA! I have since swapped to go up poundage with a friend who needed to go down. Which worked nicely as it's starting to get him back in the game! I also got the Samick Agulla riser. This was far from a mistake for me however I would not suggest it to many people. The grip cannot be changed and has a nasty seam right down the middle that cuts and rubs your hand and it only has a button hole not a button hole and rest hole thingy. Get one with two holes like the Samick Athlete is something I’d suggest. The SF is also a very nice riser. I’d suggest a Shibuya DX button as it’s fairly cheap but of good quality. I got X7 Arrows. If I were you I’d get XX75s. X7 are an excellent arrow but XX75s are inexpensive and fly much better than an X7 at 80yds. Perfect for the beginner. Make sure they’re spined right and depending on how ready your income make sure there’s a little extra length to them. Other than that I’d just say wait. Wait until you have consistant technique.
__________________ FRUB Rule #1: Discussion of the F is strictly prohibited. | |||||||||||||||
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| I finished my beginners course on the Tuesday, and went shopping to Eastcote House on the following Saturday!!!! (That was about 18 months ago...) I opted for the following: Hoyt Eclipse riser (close call between that & SF) KAP Challenger limbs - 32# 70" Arten Europa sight Shibuya DX Button Easton xx75 arrows (2016) - uncut!!! Petron Magnetic wrap-around rest First extra purchase was a long rod. Then in May, I changed to Carbon Impact arrows for outdoor use. In August I upgraded the limbs to KAP Winstorm Carbons 36#, then followed shortly after by the purchase of some short rods & extender. Most recent change was the purchase of some W&W Synerzy limbs 38#. That will probably be me....not much else to get/change. I am now very happy with my setup. With things like limbs, don't go for top of the range too quickly - it will only cost you more money in the long run. Working through a few cheaper set is definately the way to go. Arrows, are kinda similar. You might be luck in that if you change limbs, the arrows still fly well. However, that isn't always the case.
__________________ The force is with you...Always!! Giffnock-Archers.co.uk | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| I shot with an old bow I borrowed off my dad which was a 37Lb draw at 28. After about a year I went straight into matters with a Hoyt Nexus, CRX Limbs (36) and Easton X7 arrows and a Shibuya DX with the goldtip etc.. In a sense I am in fact in the minority of archers because I could use this bow to its potential. I now intend to get Merlin Triads for my recurve style and a Shibuya Dual Click sight. Main things you require: Riser Limbs Arrows String x2 Button Tab Stringer Sight Stabilisers - long rod, [extender V-bar and short rods optional] Case And Optionally: Spare fletches points and nocks, clicker, dental floss, fletching jig, glue, String Wax, Bracing Height Gauge The riser, matter of choice. You can spend as much or as little as you want. I personally wouldn't go much more pricey than a Helix if even that far. The 'less than top' bows like the Nexus, NX and the like are great. The cheaper risers are good too and can be shot to a high level but if you can afford one decent one why buy cheaper? Limbs. At an early stage buy cheap. KAP Challenger are about £50 and are good right up to an intermediate level. You will only really suffer at long range where faster limbs give you the edge. The main issue is you MUST be able to pull them with good form. With tiller adjust being able to add about 10% to the weight this gives you a good chance to move up the poundages safely. After about a year or two when your draw length has settled and you are used to it you can move up the poundages and up the limb quality. I am going to train up to about 38 or 40 on the fingers, that is when I'm going to buy pricey limbs. Arrows: Get them spined for just above what you currently draw. Easton arrows tend to be a spine or two too stiff - gives you room to breath. You can always shoot heavier arrows, but not lighter. Also get them a bit longer than you need. If you draw 28 get 29.5 or even 30. Then when you draw has settled and you are on a clicker you can cut them down to size - you will also gain a spine or so by doing so raising the poundage they are sorted for by about 2/3lb by taking an inch off. String - self explanatory. Now is a great time to learn to do a nock. You should alwats have two shot in strings at all times. Only takes about 30 arrows for a string to settle then you can reset the nock and go from there. Button - You don't need anything pricey, Shibuya DX is reliable and useable all the way up to the Olympics. Tab - matter of preference, play a bit before you buy. Sight - Shibuya Dual click - can't go wrong. It along with the Arten Europa or whatever I discoverd in my research were the cheapest you could go whilst loosing nothing. Stabilisers - matter of preference. At an early stage you won't know what you want in terms of bow reaction, so just a long rod will do. You can then expand into Vbars and the like once you are more aware of the benefits. The one thing you absolutely don't want to do is what one of our people did. Spent well over £1k on his setup... he is rubbish. He doesn't know how to tune it, he doesn't know how to use it, he just bought everything expensive. He has a sight that is far too advanced with options he is never going to make use of, he has the most advanced button money can buy when he doesn't know how to tune a bow and 90% of people who do won't even know the difference with the tiny adjustments anyway, he has TFCs which to all intents are pointless and an angled V-bar which is a waste of time/money as well. Despite all this stabilisation etc. he still holds the bow making it completely obselete anyway. Any more questions feel free to PM ![]() Edit: on the note of bow setup - almost all archers should be able to do this and certainly any coach will know how. So you don't necessarily HAVE to get it done in a shop. | |||||||||||||
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| Most, if not all of the above is very good advice. Take a look at this it may help as well. http://www.archersreference.pwp.blue...archref_05.pdf Don't save on the sight, buy a decent one to start off with that can move up with you, as you progress, there is nothing worse than a sight that comes loose or shakes it's self to bits after each end of arrows. Rgds, Jamie
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| I started off with a Win & Win Toutall riser and Win & Win Challenger Craft limbs, plus a Shibuya DX button, Hoyt Super Rest and Arten Olympic sight. It was all good stuff, couldn't have picked much better as it turns out. I got rid of the Arten Olympic after a few years in favour of a Shibuya Dual Click, but only because I got fed up of the mushy windage adjustment on the Olympic. The Toutall was replaced by the KAP Winstar, which had dreadfully soft paint. Quite a contrast to the Toutall's hard electrostatic finish. The Winstar II looks to be alright, though. The other riser I'd recommend is the Hoyt Eclipse - very popular at my club, and with good reason. As others have said, get a decent sight. Cartel sights are the bane of my life - I always seem to be sorting them out or showing people yet again how to adjust them. I'm thinking of asking Aardvark not to sell Cartel sights to anyone from my club.
__________________ After a period of review, it has become evident that this town is indeed not big enough for the both of us. Club: Phoenix Bowmen, Halifax, UK, County: Yorkshire | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Quote:
The apetures keep breaking...the adjustment is rubbish, the bolts go missing... And they charge £8 for these things!?!? | |||||||||||||
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| I'd listen to your coach if I were you. A few weeks does not make you an archer and (with respect), you have no idea of what "getting on well" actually means, and you have no way of validating the decisions which you will be putting in the hands of others. Take a staged approach and listen to your coach. Ask about the things you *should* buy now e.g. your own tab/armguard/perhaps some arrows suited to the bow you are currently using. Your coach should know when the kit your using is holding you back and advise on when the time is right to move up to something more suitable. But hey, it's your money. I'm sure if you're desperate to spend it a reasoned discussion with your coach will help you spend it wisely.
__________________ One of these days I'm going to become a coach... just in case people run out of reasons to criticise me in other ways | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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