Arrows gone stiff overnight !?!?

[Jay.g]

If everything shoots fine, bow's sweet, group's sweet then why the bother? Doesn't matter if its stiff or soft as long as the groups good and have good clearance.

[Cimbian]

Originally Posted by King Custard

where does your lad line up the bowstring.?

Ah! A simple answer... just what I was looking for.

Edge of the sight-pin housing... always has.

[Cimbian]

Originally Posted by Jay.g

If everything shoots fine, bow's sweet, group's sweet then why the bother? Doesn't matter if its stiff or soft as long as the groups good and have good clearance.

This is true and we will do some testing this weekend at his critical distances and if all is well then I am not overly fussed, TBH, and will put the allen keys away.

I just don't like unsolved mysteries and this one has me vexed.

[napolienne]

Clicker compressing the button a little at full draw so arrows being sprung off to one side? One or both limbs damaged/failing? Is the spring in the button free of rust and/or other manky stuff? Button plunger showing signs of excessive wear?

Failing that I agree with the above, if they're grouping OK tell them to get on with it.

[Cimbian]

Originally Posted by napolienne

Clicker compressing the button a little at full draw so arrows being sprung off to one side? One or both limbs damaged/failing? Is the spring in the button free of rust and/or other manky stuff? Button plunger showing signs of excessive wear?

Failing that I agree with the above, if they're grouping OK tell them to get on with it.

This is the point I am at now.

I will strip the button later to see if it is full of foot power from the clearance tests.

I am also wondering about the limbs... we've already had one set of CRX delaminate on us.

I've assumed, as nothing had been adjusted, that the weight is the same; however, the battery on my scales has died so I can't compare the weight accurately with the previous session but he did comment that it was easy to draw. New battery due to arrive today.

[geoffretired]

I know the feelings of having a problem and no solution. Got to get the answer eventually, yes?
You didn't say how you knew the arrows were showing stiff after being ok on an earlier test, or did I miss that?
For an arrow to change spine would require something very unusual;so discount that unless the test was bare shaft compared to fletched arrows. If only one bare shaft was used, perhaps that was damaged somehow after the first testing session.
If the bow lost speed, that would make arrows perform stiffer, that would also show a loss of sightmark, especially at longer distances.
If the string was breaking up inside the serving, that might allow stretch to slow the arrows. Look for spiral type twists showing through the serving.
If the button jammed or stiffened with powder/dirt, it could have effected the results and once you backed it off a little you would have released the stickiness or noticed it when you went through the adjustment process.With it needing to be very much softer to get good tune, it seems unlikely to be that.

[ASW1973]

call it string picture or alignement or torque it is the most logical answer.
something about "hear hooves dont think zebra!"

[Cimbian]

Well, problem fixed!

I took the button apart and it was clean but in doing so I looked again at the travel and found that the button was not supporting the arrow fully and as a result was bottoming. Why it altered I know not, but alter it did (well the symptoms anyhow).

I gave the spring a precision stretch with a pair of pliers... sort of ... "that should do it", reassembled the button, retuned and all was well. Gotta love the DX for its simplicity!

I think part of the problem lies in the Beiter rest as we swapped over a few weeks ago from the ZT because we could not stop it drifting out. The ZT, with its slight incline holds the arrow into the riser. The Beiter, being at 90 degrees to the riser, doesn't exploit gravity in the same way.

Re: the paper test. It is important to understand the situation as we are not all blessed with GNAS approved ranges at home. When setting-up in the garden I don't have a huge margin for error... safe but...

ConsequentlyI get nervous about shooting soething that is unknown, which by definition this is; so, I run a paper test at close range to make sure that nothing is too far out before extending the distance for a bare shaft tune. I admit that the paper test does not fix everything on a recurve but, IMHO, it is good for close-range work and excellent for seeing the effects of clearance work.

So, thanks to everyone that pondered on this problem for me and all the suggestions.

Good shooting!

[geoffretired]

Cimbian,
I think it is good to follow up a problem with a resolution when it happens; and more questions when the solution isn't there yet.
Sometimes, problems are put forward and all sorts of advice given. Sometimes, that is the end of it. I feel that situation is a bit unhelpful.
By posting the solution, you have put this to rest as it were.A good result for you, and a good result for those who offered advice. Something to remember for next time; it will happen again, to someone, yes?
Thanks for the update.