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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 14-05-08, 11:50 AM
Little Miss Purple's Avatar
Practically Perfect
  • Recurve
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  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs:
Sight:
Stabilisers:
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows:

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Quote:
Originally Posted by not dead yet View Post
please be aware stanley blades etc can slither the carbon on carbon arrows.
also using solvents can attack the make up of the carbon composite.

stanley knives used at own risk

pete

you've seen the blades we use in the shop!!
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 14-05-08, 11:54 AM
not dead yet's Avatar
It's an X
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: avalon / ultratec
Limbs: winex/ xt3000
Sight: scorten/ toxonics
Stabilisers: beiter
Button: beiter
Bow String: f.f./ bcy
Arrows: aces / aces

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we do it all the time trace,, i mean for the average first timer etc
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 14-05-08, 12:05 PM
FunkyBadger's Avatar
In the White
  • Recurve
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Setup
Riser: Jade Nexus (25")
Limbs: 32lb WinAct (short)
Sight: SF Carbon Pro
Stabilisers: Cartel Longrod (28")
Button: Shibuya DX, Spig ZT rest
Bow String: 18 str Fast Flight Plus
Arrows: Easton A/C/C - 750

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Wink

Quote:
Originally Posted by pHz View Post
just to clarify and to follow up petes post above - the tool i linked to is a stanley-type knife but has modified blades with a blunt semi-circular 'notch' cut into it that sits round the arrow shaft and 'cuts' the vane / wrap away without digging into the carbon
I was wondering if the above sort of tool would be able to remove vanes that have been super-glued to carbon (ACC) shafts without damaging them? I bought my arrows ready-fletched from Bowsports, but needed to remove the vanes from one of them to check the tuning. I tried removing the vanes carefully with a (sharp) penknife blade, but there's still a bit of them left where the glue is, as I daren't risk going in an closer...

Next time I need to fletch arrows will use Platinum Fletch Tite and will glue them myself... BTW does using arrow wraps before applying vanes make removing them later easier?
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 14-05-08, 01:10 PM
pHz's Avatar
pHz pHz is offline
the teach
  • Recurve
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Setup
Riser: merlin elite (black)
Limbs: merlin elite 36# (39#)
Sight: AGF safari / beiter
Stabilisers: spigarelli / merlin
Button: shibuya DX (black)
Bow String: CBA flu orange 452X
Arrows: x-pert 820 / junior 2016

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havent tried the tool on bare carbon to be honest but i would imagine it would do the job fairly well

using wraps has its up and downs - with them i find it easier to clean back to bare shafts (a good soak in hot water and a quick scrape gets you a really clean shaft for starting again) and removing one vane is easy but will damage the wrap and mean the whole thing needs replacing more often than not

but for spinnies / kurlys / etc attached with tape wraps are the way to go no question

slainte rob
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Last edited by pHz; 14-05-08 at 02:34 PM. Reason: typo
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 14-05-08, 01:16 PM
Little Miss Purple's Avatar
Practically Perfect
  • Recurve
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Setup
Riser:
Limbs:
Sight:
Stabilisers:
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows:

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the strip tool removes wraps in seconds
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 14-05-08, 02:27 PM
wingate_52's Avatar
It's an X
  • Recurve
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Setup
Riser: Black Winact,Jager grip
Limbs: Winex 42#
Sight: Copperjohn with G505
Stabilisers: 31" Doinker carbon
Button: Shibuya
Bow String: 16/18 strand Majesty (R.Young)
Arrows: Nav 610,Fatboys 500 27"

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I fletch my vanes and feathers to the carbon with superglue. i remove them with a ZipStrip and warm water. No solvents, knives or anything else that can damage myself or my shafts. I use tools every day in my job, and the ZipStrip is excellent. You need no traing to use it.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 14-05-08, 03:29 PM
FunkyBadger's Avatar
In the White
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Jade Nexus (25")
Limbs: 32lb WinAct (short)
Sight: SF Carbon Pro
Stabilisers: Cartel Longrod (28")
Button: Shibuya DX, Spig ZT rest
Bow String: 18 str Fast Flight Plus
Arrows: Easton A/C/C - 750

Compound Script currently under construction
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Oxford, England
Posts: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by pHz View Post
just to clarify and to follow up petes post above - the tool i linked to is a stanley-type knife but has modified blades with a blunt semi-circular 'notch' cut into it that sits round the arrow shaft and 'cuts' the vane / wrap away without digging into the carbon
Indeed, so my query was about whether you think this would be able to remove vanes that had been super-glued on...
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 14-05-08, 03:41 PM
In the Red
  • Recurve
  • Compound
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Setup
Riser: Winact
Limbs: Winex
Sight: Summit
Stabilisers: W&W HMC
Button: Shibuya DX
Bow String: TS-Plus
Arrows: 3L-18, FlexFletch

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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Bognor Regis, UK
Posts: 436
My concern is that the 'Stanley knife' is quite a large, brutish thing that can be difficult to control lightly.

A craft knife or scalpel can be used with a very light touch but, as I mentioned before, one needs to have the level of tool-handling required, otherwise the zip-strip is probably the way to go.

As for superglue, yes, a scalpel will do it with the above caveat. I have refletched a full single set of ACCs FOUR times (don't ask!) using a scalpel to remove the old vanes with no ill-effect or marks on the shaft, some of these vanes had superglue on them due to running repairs at tournaments (shot-damaged not fallen-off!).

IMHO, if unsure then don't go near carbons with a knife, stanley or otherwise.
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