Button depth??

[Cimbian]

Originally Posted by BeardedBowman

Paper tuning is essential for a recurve as it is the only way I know to tell if you have got the knocking point at the right height on the centre serving...

Be careful of being too prescriptive, a common trait on this forum. It is not essential, neither is it the only way.

If you can do this at the range then another, and many would say better, method is bare shaft, IMHO of course.

[Russ]

Originally Posted by Tom

Isn't it just We all owe Murray a big debt of gratitude for it

Yup, I'll second that. (Thanks, Murray)

BigBiker: if it's any help, the term "button depth" is often referred to as "centre shot" (though if you ask me, "button depth" gives a more useful description of what you have to do). Geoff describes it really well in the first reply to your post; I've used both methods and so I'll offer my own experience with them here:

1. James Park's tuning method is really good IF your arrows are well-matched to your bow. The original version is here - Tuning a recurve bow - Archery Forum - and the AIUK version is here - http://www.archery-interchange.com/f...Park_method%29

I used this method with my current set of arrows but they were a bit too soft, so as a result my centreshot wasn't where it should have been.

2. The other way is what I've been using recently: I put my bow on a table or stand, and set my plunger depth so that I can see about 1/2 (or slightly more) of the point of the arrow to the left of the string, and I set the sight pin directly above that (right-handed shooter). After tuning button pressure and nocking point with fletched/bareshaft, I check the centreshot with a "walk-back" and this seems to do the trick. Murray also describes walk-back tuning in archers reference.

I've never tried paper tuning because we don't have that kind of equipment at the club, but bareshaft seems to work; I can shoot all distances from 18-90 metres without touching the windage on my sight. The only disadvantage is pulling perfectly good fletching off two of your arrows - a lot of our adult beginners look long and hard at their brand new (fletched) arrows, then look at our beat-up and barely serviceable fletching jigs, and decide they'll worry about tuning some other time...

[pHz]

Originally Posted by John (OSF)

Please expand on this, as I think paper tuning on a recurve is a waste of time for most (if not all ) recurve archers.

agreed

WAY too easy to skew results for anything other than nocking point - and personally i find either bareshaft at 20 yards an easier way of sorting that (i have been shown another way but im not sure of its value yet)

slainte rob