centre shot

[pHz]

im curious

if (for whatever reason) you had your centreshot setup so that the arrow tip was slightly INSIDE the line of the string rather than slightly outside ...

would this create any potential clearance issues (assumption is that arrows are correct spine for weight on fingers) ?

if so where might you expect to see the contact and what effect might this have on arrow flight / impact point ?

slainte : rob

[wanshu]

Originally Posted by pHz

im curious

if (for whatever reason) you had your centreshot setup so that the arrow tip was slightly INSIDE the line of the string rather than slightly outside ...

would this create any potential clearance issues (assumption is that arrows are correct spine for weight on fingers) ?

if so where might you expect to see the contact and what effect might this have on arrow flight / impact point ?

slainte : rob

One would expect that with the arrow pointing inside the line( to the right that the arrow risked contact with the rest/button.

I had this dilemma with my Cartel Triples after I had fitted the Jager grip to sort out my heavy contact problems.
I set them up as per recommended outside the line with 2 thirds ish of the arrow point visable. Not quite right. One of the coaches commented to two of us, both shooting Triples that the thinner arrows such as the triples tend to need more to the outside. Tried this and based on results the arrows do fly better.

From recent experience heavy contact wrecks fletchings and makes the arrow fly like a bucking bronco. So glad I'm sorted.

[hollowpoint]

that's from the easton tuning guide.

[pHz]

yeah - read that and lots of other theory (there are tuning methods where you could concievably end up with centreshot 'correctly' inside the line of the string) - just wondered what the practical effects of an 'inside' centreshot would be on clearance and arrow impact

slainte : rob

[hollowpoint]

Originally Posted by pHz

yeah - read that and lots of other theory (there are tuning methods where you could concievably end up with centreshot 'correctly' inside the line of the string) - just wondered what the practical effects of an 'inside' centreshot would be on clearance and arrow impact

slainte : rob

i m just wondering, will there be a scientific way to find out the perfect centre shot setting rather than trying and guessing?

[not dead yet]

i have known bowmen + archers ,shoot with arrow into the bow in the winter due to shooting a lower poundage indoors. only when arrows are too stiff though.

centre shot , keep playing find best group.

ideal way 2 bows use one fiddle with other..

get better groups / performance, swap bows. fiddle with the other

[WhitehartFB]

Indoors I to have got away with using a stiffer spined arrows by playing around with the centreshot, but then again indoors you can get away with almost anything as long as your fletchings are big enough.

Many years ago (14 years) Easton recommended that ACE arrows tended to be more forgiving of a poor release if the paradox was deliberately increased.

I have found with carbon arrows that if the centreshot is not to the left of the string for a RH archer and vice versa for LH good consistant arrow grouping seems more critically linked to your release.

[hooktonboy]

Originally Posted by Yorker

Now after a form revision and being at the appropriate weight for my arrows I have it set hard as nails and dead centre - no messing around.

Do you find the "hard as nails" button fairly unforgiving, Yorker? I used to have mine set medium (whatever that is) until I read ASWs advice (i.e. really soft, just hard enough not to be compressed by the clicker) and I've found that this improves the grouping quite a lot.

YMMV of course.

[King Custard]

Originally Posted by Yorker

When I was at a slightly lower poundage ie. about 32 fingers rather than 36 my arrows wouldn't behave, so I had the button slightly in with a soft spring.

Now after a form revision and being at the appropriate weight for my arrows I have it set hard as nails and dead centre - no messing around.

As whitehart and hooktonboy have pointed towards - 'forgiveness' of release is affected by button position and tension..hence grouping - in fact thats what a recurvers button is for!
To introduce a measure of forgiveness into the shot, a 'buffer' from varying releases.
Effectively 'a hard as nails' button tension is a sign of a misunderstanding of the equipments purpose.
Yes, sure Jay Barrs and others Can shoot off a nail (to coin a phrase), but that's due to a very highly consistent release....it's not an advantage to shoot with a non-functioning button atall, unless perchance, your sole intention is to ascertain exactly how your groups deviate without said 'forgiveness'..unless you are working purely on your release perhaps wanting to exacerbate the result of any poor releases......or of course you are tuning arrows to bow a la Park method. Of course top level archers wouldn't be relying on a 'release fault supressor system' such as the button..but for the vast majority of us, properly set - it aids consistent grouping

In my experience reaching a tune such as this ( with totally stiff button) may seem early on in the endeavours of a bow-tuning apprentice to be the best tune you can get with the given equipment, form and accessories - but in reality it is an indication that there is something else amiss, poorly spined arrows perhaps....maybe just a poor basic tune.

This mis- set button will cost points on a poor release...where a properly set button should lose less points for the same sloppy release.

I'm sure Yorker isn't advocating a hard button to be 'best advice', though some may mistakenly read his post that way. This post is for clarification only.

[Jerry Tee]

Do a walk back tune to set the button position.