String Twists.

[Sponge]

Originally Posted by geoffretired

Two things strike me here. One is the coach wanting NO twists. That is so very unusual, in my experience. Are there other club members shooting with untwisted strings at your club,Sponge? Have they been given the same information? If not, could there have been a mis understanding somewhere?
Secondly, you say you only ask questions when you get conflicting answers. I appreciate your situation, but I would be asking questions no matter what;it's the way to get the best from the coaches. As a coach I always feel the students who ask questions are the ones who are more interested. I know that's a generalisation but, you know what I mean. I know it could sound as if you doubt the coach's word but the expression,"Tell me more." can be a great way to learn more and quietly test the water so to speak.

Geoff, I should have made myself clear. I ask LOTs of questions. Its only when I get different answers do I start to ask questions on here.

I am lucky to be in a club with several coaches and lots of people who offer to help. As lots of threads show, you can get a big difference in opinion. Mostly, they agree, sometimes they don't.

This particual coach doesn't think that bare shaft tuning is worth the effort and uses other methods. Others think differently. When you are starting out, the issue is working out if to just listen to one or listen to many and try to sort out the differences.

As for the twists issue, the string isn't unwound and naturally hold turns (i.e. the strands all spiral, the wax holding the shape , not running straight up the string like I have seen). I was adding a few more to bring the height up when I was given the advice.

Sponge.

[Sponge]

Originally Posted by JohnK

Far from the worst thing I've heard a coach say . . .

Sponge - 8 7/8in sounds a bit low for a 70in Winstar. You might want to try putting some more twists and try some higher bracing heights, say between 9 and 9 3/4in.

OK, dumb question here. Am I measuring to the right place? Over 9" would be further than the KAP guide book, but if I rememeber correctly, it says measure the the balancing point?!?!? I have heard others say the lowest point on the handle. When I was first shown how to string a bow, I was shown measuring to the button hole. Are these all the same thing?

Rik: Thanks for the posting. One issue that I have, and other beginners may have, is what is a quiet sounding or smooth shooting bow? It doesn't sound that much different to others that I hear on the line, but wouldn't extra stabilisation or different limbs make all bows sound different? I have heard things that sound more "Boing" and others that sounds more "crack", but nothing alarming. The tuning methods also need you to be accurate enough to spot the differences.

Sponge.

Originally Posted by Sponge

OK, dumb question here. Am I measuring to the right place? Over 9" would be further than the KAP guide book, but if I rememeber correctly, it says measure the the balancing point?!?!? I have heard others say the lowest point on the handle. When I was first shown how to string a bow, I was shown measuring to the button hole. Are these all the same thing?

Rik: Thanks for the posting. One issue that I have, and other beginners may have, is what is a quiet sounding or smooth shooting bow? It doesn't sound that much different to others that I hear on the line, but wouldn't extra stabilisation or different limbs make all bows sound different? I have heard things that sound more "Boing" and others that sounds more "crack", but nothing alarming. The tuning methods also need you to be accurate enough to spot the differences.

Sponge.

The book will assume you measure to the throat of the handle. The bit where the web of your hand fits into.

[morphymick]

Originally Posted by wingate_52

Clockwise turns, I use 22 full turns to get my required bracing height. Are you using a bought string or one that has been made for you?

Twists should be in the same direction as the servings, helps to keep them tight.

One twist per 3" of string is a good starting point, as Rik says 20-60, gives plenty of room for manoeuvre on brace height change when you do the final tuning.

Strings will stretch slightly over time, so your 5 twists may turn into 10 after a few months.

Mick

[Cakemeister]

What you also need to have is a method of storing the string so you know there are still the same number of twists in it when you next get it out of the bow. You could store it loose in your bowcase with the loops round the risers, or thread one loop inside the other, or make a cardboard 'cogwheel' to thread your string through.

Pete

[tel]

One issue that I have, and other beginners may have, is what is a quiet sounding or smooth shooting bow? It doesn't sound that much different to others that I hear on the line

There are one or two archers at our club that, if I happen to end up shooting next to, I can almost identify by the sound of their bows! Daft sounding, I know - no rattle, vibration, or other unwanted nonsense - but an almost 'double bass' sound on the loose...wish I could get it!

[Big Boy Blue]

Tel

I could not agree more, the first time I tried to find my optimum brace height I went through the whole range and the bow always sounded the same. From what I had read I thought it was going to be any easy thing to hear.

I have ended up having to use group size to find my best height.

[Bald Eagle]

You can! persevere with your bracing height trials along with tiller and you can tune your bow to perfection. Remember, tuning is what it says, the bow has to sound good, as well as shooting good.

[JohnK]

Originally Posted by Sponge

OK, dumb question here. Am I measuring to the right place? Over 9" would be further than the KAP guide book, but if I rememeber correctly, it says measure the the balancing point?!?!? I have heard others say the lowest point on the handle. When I was first shown how to string a bow, I was shown measuring to the button hole. Are these all the same thing?

Not a dumb question at all

There seem to be four main ways of measure bracing height:

1. To the belly of the bow - favoured by longbow archers.
2. To the centre of the rear button hole.
3. To the throat of the grip
4. To the back of the bow - used by Marksman.

2 and 3 are usually favoured by recurve shooters, and often produce more or less the same measurement because the grip throat is normally more or less under the rear button hole. However, on the Helix for example the grip throat is much further away from the archer than the centre of the button.

I favour 2 - it's the way I was shown and you can check your nocking point at the same time.

[Thunk]

As has been said before - a sring needs twists. A good rule of thumb is one twist per three inches of string length; this enables the strands to bind together so that the string functions as a single entity. An untwisted string will 'balloon' as the tension is momentarily relieved at the point of release.

For further info see Murray's 'Archers Reference', link on the links directory page.
Oh heck, just go here.
If my memory is correct, the section on string length, bracing heights and twists etc is on page 13. But be warned; this is a 60 -70 page document, so you realy need abroadband connection to download it - or a lot of patience!