Nock movement???

[joelondon]

Hi all,

first day out with my new navigators, and first time shooting with Spinwings.

i managed to tear a vane off the arrow in the green (was enjoying the sunshine n not concentrating).

I got the arrows with Beiter in out nocks, but compared to my other nocks on my xx75's and the borrowed ace's I was using these move around easily, there seems to be little tension holding them in. Now as you can imagine this has become my new distraction whilst at the shooting line, it is further compounded by the fact that I am not entirely sure how the spin wings should line up with regards clearance of the rest. whereas before the nocks didn't move, these can so I am always wondering if they have moved.

without a drawing this may be hard to describe, but do you look to balance as best you can the flappy bit on the bottom vane with the curvey bit of the top, or is there a biase with the curvey bit coming over to the right, or the flappy bottom end coming up towards the right?

so 2 questions really, what kinda tension do you need on the nock? able to move easily by hand through to cranking with pliers and gripping the arrow with an arrow puller? and what do you use to seat them stronger.

also whilst I am asking about this subject, would all my problems have been removed if I had gone for pin nocks from the outset, are these stiffer on their turning ability? if so might this be a better option?

and also the spin wins setting? because the are so flappy, they are hard to visulise going through the rest (easier to see on ep vanes where the clearance is)


hope in all my confused waffle I have managed to ask the questions I have!!!

cheers

Joe

[LineCutter]

Originally Posted by joelondon

I got the arrows with Beiter in out nocks, but compared to my other nocks on my xx75's and the borrowed ace's I was using these move around easily, there seems to be little tension holding them in.

Try this thread for some hints on keeping them in the same (rotation) position.

I'm not sure I understand the other question well enough to try & answer - maybe that drawing would be a good idea

[joelondon]

cheers Linecutter,

i did have a hunt for a thread, but must have been rubbish at it, now to decide to chew, floss or do my nails hmmmm the choices


i get what you mean about thew other part of my question i lost myself too, I will think thorugh my wording and try to formulate a better description, or work on a drawing, now I'll need to add crayons to my shopping list above!!!

cheers

Joe

[geoffretired]

For fletching position , rather than going on "looks" which is confusing, I would powder test them to see which, if any, are contacting the rest or the riser. If the powder is unmarked, they are clearing. If one fletch is marked, turn it away from the part that must have caused the mark. If it is always the rest causing the marks, raise the nocking point until they clear the rest.

[disbloke]

If I'm understanding the second bit of your question right what you want to know is the orientation of the vane when compared to standard straight vanes? As a base starting point it's fairly easy to align spinwings, instead of looking at the curled part of the vane look at the tape on the shaft. you should have the 3 vanes spaced equally around the shaft just the same as you do with EP vanes. now just align 1 of the vanes tapes into the position where you would normally have your #### flight, the one that sits horizontally out away from the riser and there you have a base starting point for spinwing alignment.

If you do notice any clearence issues try rotating the nock so that the #### flight is very slightly angled down. A small amount of spray talc on the rest will highlight if the vanes are catching. You should then be able to see a trace on the vane which will give you a guide as to which way you need to move the nock.

[goa dan]

The same thing keeps happening to me except all my fletchings are tearing in the same place although im wondering if it my hoyt super rest now

my beiter knocks move and i was told to try the beiter #1's instead of the #2's i was using

[WhitehartFB]

Hi Joe are you saying that the nocks are loose in the shaft as they should be a snug fit, although for some reason some colours fit tighter than others.

The easiest way to make them fit better is to smear fletching glue around the bit that has contact inside shaft but wait for it to fully dry (so as not to glue the nock in) then re fit the nock lining it up with the bottom edge of the spinwing (as you would with EP vanes) for the #### feather.

If its the nock being loose on the serving then you will need the smaller nocks.1's not 2's

Pin nocks should fit the same however I have found that the ears seem very fragile and also remember that adding or removing weight at the back of the shaft will change the spine of the shaft.

For example Spin Wings which are lighter than EP vanes which will make the shaft weaker. Pin nocks & pin are heavier than Beiter in outs so they will make the shaft shoot stiffer.

[WhitehartFB]

[quote=goa dan]The same thing keeps happening to me except all my fletchings are tearing in the same place although im wondering if it my hoyt super rest now

Which vane as this sounds like an arrow clearance issue? When shooting with the hoyt pro rest and button you have cut the bit of plastic off above the rest (this acts as a crude button) as this will interfere with your button settings.

[goa dan]

I currently use normal plastifletch and just use the hoyt super rest with no button and just the plastic but they still rip/tear in the same place on the same one

[WhitehartFB]

Originally Posted by goa dan

I currently use normal plastifletch and just use the hoyt super rest with no button and just the plastic but they still rip/tear in the same place on the same one

Is it the bottom or top vane in relation to the #### feather?

I would check your centre shot first, how is the rest stuck on did you use the padded double sided tape. Otherwise the arrow will have a negative centre shot because most risers are cut well past centre shot to help with arrow clearance so you need to move the arrow rest out a bit.