Clicker setup for dummies (that'll be me then)

[Robert]

Well I've just spent a rather frustrating time trying to setup/ get used to a clicker. Its a Beiter blade that screws onto my GM riser.

I tried to shoot a few dozen with it set so i was pulling *just* past my natural draw length to get the click and this was just plain unpleasant. after a few dozen shot sans clicker (much better scores !) I figured that the extra draw was just requiring too much effort to still execute a good shot so moved the blade to click sooner.

Much nicer feel - but now the group is all over the place.

Just tried the clicker back on just past my natural draw and the groups are coming back into line but It still feels really weird.

Whats going on? where should i set it to click ? how many doz is it gonna take to get back into some kind of rhythm?

HELP !

maybe I should just ditch the thing (clicker) for a while... but I know its gotta be done sooner or later so I figured that now was good.

maybe i need to reduce poundage now im using a clicker ?

I'm in need of some help ...

Robert

[LineCutter]

A real coach'll be along in a minute , but for now:

Get someone to watch your arrow when you're shooting without the clicker. They need to spot the draw length you use. That's basically where your clicker will sit (with the nearest edge to your nose level with the place your point comes to before you loose).

Then use Murray's clicker drill & get the idea of what you're trying to do. Then you start wondering about groups on the target. Otherwise all you demonstrate is what you already know - thinking about a new element of the shot process makes the rest of it go to pieces.

[PaulT]

Robert, new thing always fell 'weird' for a while but they usually work (especially the clicker). You refer to your 'natural draw length' and this should be the best place for your clicker but get an experinced archer (and /or coach) to help with this. Also expect this to change as you gain more experience.
But whatever don't ' ditch' it and expect the transition to take time - they always do.

[Rik]

hmmm. Natural draw length? What's that?

Unless you're shooting very consistently, I don't think you can say there is such an animal. It's possible to set up and shoot a clicker over a small range of different draw lengths, but my personal experience has been that going for the longer end is better (assuming you weren't already drawing to the point of overdrawing - most people don't). You might be able to move the clicker back a fair way from your 'natural length' and get good groups. But you need to get someone to help you find the right place.

One exercise to try: have someone watch you draw up with a measuring arrow. Do your normal draw and get them to check the length under the clicker. Now draw up normally again and then apply extra pressure - don't jerk it, just try and get the feeling of stretching into the shot. Get your helper to make note of that length under the clicker. Compare the two. You probably want to set the clicker somewhere towards the longer length, not right at it, but towards the top end.

Whatever you do, it's not going to feel natural until you get used to it. As with any of these things, give it a few months to settle in.

[nfinite]

I have recently removed my clicker due to the fact that i have been raising my shoulder and it has been varying my draw ( just a bit ).

Will put it back on maybe in a couple of months or so, when i keep it down.

Could never understand why some people start with a clicker ?

always though there were to many inconsistances to use one correct when a archer starts archery.

But i surpose everybody is differant and it may work for some......

[wingate_52]

i wish that i had started with a clicker. I have had to change my style and am not still using it effectively. it has helped scoring at 80 and 100 yards, so there is improvement through use.

[Murray]

Best to find a friendly coach, but if no one's available...

IMO, the best check is to set up close to a blank bale, and draw the arrow up to full draw, stretch a *little*, and if the clicker doesn't drop, move the away from you. (if it drops before you reach full draw, move it towards you).

Repeat until the clicker drops when you expect it to, 90% of the time.

Once you have that down pat, you can add an additional step in the process by watching the clicker as you pull the point back to it. You should be at full draw just as the clicker starts descending down the end of the point, which will show you that you're almost at the end of the arrow travel, then transfer your focus to the target and stretch a little to finish the shot.

It can take considerable time to get used to shooting with a clicker, so don't give up.

[geoffretired]

How long have you shot without a clicker?
How consistent was your draw without the clicker?
How does your draw normally progress from start to finish?
Is your current draw length based on alignment and body posture?
These are some important details that require answers.
Rik had it right when he suggested it is unrealistic to expect to have the perfect draw length. PaulT had it right too when he said new things feel weird.
I would give yourself a chance at getting the clicker to work for you. If it is too far forward, it will always click before you reach your initial settling drawlength. That makes it useless. Move it towards yourself so you reach your face references with 1cm approx left to pull through. When you are doing the last stage of the draw to get the clicker to click, you are in new territory. Don't over complicate that by having a target to hit. Blank boss, no sight, will free up your mind to work on the one thing you are trying to get right. That one thing is the draw that gets the clicker to click. Often, the thing that makes the last part of the draw so difficult, is fear of pulling the sight off the gold. Fear of the click sounding when you are no longer on aim.
With nothing to miss, there is far less mental stress.
If the new draw is over long, it could be that it just feels like that because you have been underdrawing in the past. If it really is too long, ease the clicker away a small amount at a time until it feels better. With only 1mm under the clicker in the early days, the fear of it going too soon will upset the early stages of your draw and then you are going backwards not making progress. Watching the arrow pile, pulling under the clicker is a good idea. If you are close enough to the boss, there is no fear of missing. You should soon start to get a nice surprise follow through and the loose will have done its own thing.

[Robert]

Originally Posted by geoffretired

How long have you shot without a clicker?
How consistent was your draw without the clicker?
How does your draw normally progress from start to finish?
Is your current draw length based on alignment and body posture?
.

Many thanks for all the input everyone.

I have been shooting without a clicker for about 8 months and my draw was pretty consistent- had no real issue with it until I got to more than 30yds, but with the outdoor season here I want to start using the clicker to sort out the vertical spread that was a problem on my first windsor, I honestly feel I could of done better and have resolved so to do.

I'm going to have another go tonight and try to put some of your suggestions into effect. I'm currently shooting 3rd class scores and that just isn't good enough !

[Timid Toad]

IMO it isn't compulsory to use a clicker...I wasn't taught to use one in the early days, and have developed a comfortable style which has a very consistent draw length. It was always described to me as a training aid/gold shyness correction tool, and I can reconcile that with my own style. I have tried to use one to work through some gold shyness, but it makes it worse.

My husband uses one, very successfully, but walk up behind him and click something that sounds like his clicker and he's got a night with the fletching jig!
For me it has always been one less thing to think about through the shot, but if it works for you, why not?
I can't think of it as compulsory; if you can draw a consistent draw length without it and don't have target/sighting problems don't bother. If it achieves your aims, work at it.