arrows going right...

[Wrexham Exile]

hi all,

i tuned the helix recently using technique marcus suggetsed and it groups really well.
the only problem i have is that the arrows are going very right. i have put my sight in a far amount now and at 80yds today i was aiming on the blue/black line at 9 o'clock.
some one suggested it maybe where i line the string up but i didnt quite understand how they ment.
all i can think of is maybe the centre shot needs adjusting or summin??

does anyone have any other suggestions??

a very confuzzled Al

[WhitehartFB]

A shooting pal had the same problem with his X10's. It turned out to be the way he was lining up the whole shot sequence at 80 & 100 yrds due to the additional elevation everything was fine up to 60yrds.

When aiming do you consiously line up the fuzzy image of the string to the same point on the riser each time (such as the inside if the sight window) if not then you are changing the back sight angle which will act the same as changing your windage left or right.

It could also be your centre shot or spring tension which tuning method did you use and if it was initially bareshaft at 20yrds did you put some tape on the bareshaft to balance out the FOC of the fletched arrow otherwise at 20 yrds you get a false reading weak by about 3 inches.

A few years ago Easton put out a notice to say that ACE's fly and tune better with a bit of forced paradox so as a starting point make sure your center shot puts most of the tip of your arrow to the left of the string when you look from the back of the bow lining up the string with the centre of both limbs.

Jay barrs expalines it better than me
I got this re printed from The Glade for the last Perris Newsletter

http://www.perrisarchery.co.uk/Perri...%2005%20Q4.pdf

Going right for a right hander can indicate a weak spined arrow and you might try increasing the spring tension by a turn, however you are already shooting quite a stiff spine what poundage & arrow length are you shooting?

[Wrexham Exile]

im on around 32" arrow and 40-42 pound.

i shall try looking at the string alignment method tomorrow. the method i used was bareshaft at 20yds with matchstick in pressure button and adjusting poundage to move the bareshaft. didnt use any tape on bareshaft.

the arrow tip is just to the left of the string as you look down it lined up down the centre of the riser.

maybe it is the back alignment but i cant get my head around how it can change?? surely if you anchor in the same place each time it should be the same???

cheers for the advice

Al

[JohnK]

DMU - I shoot an almost identical set up to yours, and I find that Nav 480s - which apparently tune up closer to ACE 430 than 470s - fly straight (even if they're too damn heavy to make the full distance for me). This is drawing a 32" arrow 31.5" to the back of the bow, with about the same draw weight.

[Wrexham Exile]

hey Jon,

i appreciate the advice on spine but i think its something im doing or have done in the tuning process
i have shot 470 ACE's before and it has only done this when i tuned the bow using marcus' mehtod - and in no way am i saying this is wrong or flawed, i just think maybe i done it wrong. i dunno.
it never used to be so far right before and it is the same on both my avalon and helix which i tuned the same way. maybe i have got into a habit of not lining the string up right. will investigate tomorrow. i just wanna get it sorted as aiming off all the time is really affecting my scores.

cheers again

Al

[PaulT]

DMU, another suggestion, although the string alingment idea sounds sensible you might also want to consider checking the centre shot of your set up. This is something I checked recently on mine upon noticing that my sight pin was too far to the right and there was a noticeable reduction in group size. Worth checking.

[WhitehartFB]

Originally Posted by DMU_AC

im on around 32" arrow and 40-42 pound.

maybe it is the back alignment but i cant get my head around how it can change?? surely if you anchor in the same place each time it should be the same???

cheers for the advice

Al

Yes I would agree re your point about the anchor but as with my colleague it turned out to be that he was slightly tilting his head horizontally can't remember which way but guess right and then lining up the string which moved the arrows over.

I shoot only once a week (12 Doz)and only a few points off MB so obviously there are more experienced archers to cover tuning, however I have recently changed my approach, not sure if it's text book but it has worked for me... First I set the centre shot to just over center(as per the books)then bareshaft 20yds as previously described above. I am left handed so for a starting point I like my bare shaft to hit 1 inch from Fletched at 4/5 O'clock.

I then go to 80 yrds and shoot for groups. First I move the button out and plot the groups then move it in to find the point where the arrows group better. With the centre shot set I then I do the same with the spring tension so I get to a point where I have the arrows grouping well (to my ability). I then go back and bareshaft at 20 yrds and see and record the result so that I can set the button up in the event of equipment failure. I have to say I was very surprised (and a bit concerned) where the bareshaft landed most certainly not where the text books say, apparently this is normal and will be different for everyone and I should have the optimum set up for me and my shooting ability.

I have also been told that if you are shooting good groups at 80-100yrds with carbon arrows then the walk back test is not reliable and difficult to analyse accurately?

[Wrexham Exile]

walk back test is somthing i havnt really done for long time. prefered other methods.i shall try string alignment tomorrow - something admittedly i hardly pay much attention to (slipped into bad habit perhaps??)

if nothing comes of this then will spend some time on a hard core tuning session.

i shoot just over B/M scores but want to be pushing for MB soon

its just very confusing though.

thanks again

Al

[joetapley]

The Tuning for 10s suggestion of "locking up a pressure button" doesn't work (it's based on the button being a magical device rather than a mechanical device) and often ends up with messed up bow setup with arrows appearing too weak or stiff. See http://sagittarius.student.utwente.n...pic.php?t=2666 for another example.

Follow a normal 30 metre bare shaft method for a problem free bow setup.

[Wrexham Exile]

back the drawing board then???

for a 30m tune is it just the usual get the bareshaft in the group?