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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 05-06-06, 08:37 AM
whisky's Avatar
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When I shot recurve I was always told (by someone on the GB team) the best place for your sight was as far out as possible. Told it was like shooting a rifle and having a greater distance between your eye (rear sight) and the sight pin (front sight).

James Park theories that you can find a sweet spot with the distance on your sight where regardless of torque on the bow canting it off will still get the best results with arrow grouping. It certainly works for compound and I have no reason to think it doesn't with recurve.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 05-06-06, 08:46 AM
rgsphoto
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OK my 2p

As a rule of thumb I suggest setting the sight as far out as you can and still be able to reach all distances you need to shoot at. It does help reduce bow torque . If the sight pin ring jiggles about more due to a longer extension, change the pin/ring to a bigger one.

Check out pictures of high class recurve archers, very few have the sight close in to the bow.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-06, 09:13 AM
Kuchipuka's Avatar
In the White
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Hoyt GM (red) - Rented
Sight: Shibuya - Borrowed
Stabilisers: Cartel Long rod - Rented
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: Jazz Arrows - Borrowed

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Quote:
Originally Posted by geoffretired
Try different positions and see what happens to the way you feel about the aiming process.
I think this is probably key - try things out, experiment. Some people won't like the faff of moving the sight bar in and out, I on the other hand find it a reassuring, I can see quickly that I've moved my sight to the right place. I know I've checked it 8 gazillion times since the last distance. If you have pins and rings you can change, I'd try different ones too - different visual cues may be more attractive to you.
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-06, 09:22 AM
Murray's Avatar
Unqualified meddler
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: 25" Win&Win NX Xpert
Limbs: 38# Medium W&W Winex
Sight: Shibuya Ultima
Stabilisers: W&W Fomax
Button: Shibuya DX
Bow String: 8125
Arrows: ACE 670s

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IMO - Out, then go practice until you get used to it.
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-06, 10:13 AM
Flying Whale's Avatar
It's an X
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Elite Synergy XL
Limbs:
Sight: Shibuya Ultima Carb.
Stabilisers: Beiter long rod
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: Axis FMJ 400

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Location: Malvern, Worcs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuchipuka
I think this is probably key - try things out, experiment. Some people won't like the faff of moving the sight bar in and out, I on the other hand find it a reassuring, I can see quickly that I've moved my sight to the right place. I know I've checked it 8 gazillion times since the last distance. If you have pins and rings you can change, I'd try different ones too - different visual cues may be more attractive to you.
I definitely prefer out. Since moving from allys to ACE's I have been able to reach all the way to 100yds with the sight bar in the same position. What I have moved to recently is an adjustable sight ring. This has an adjustable iris (like the f-stop mechanism on a camera) and allows me to maintin a similar amount of the target visible at any distance. I like it.
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-06, 11:02 AM
wingate_52's Avatar
It's an X
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Black Winact,Jager grip
Limbs: Winex 42#
Sight: Copperjohn with G505
Stabilisers: 31" Doinker carbon
Button: Shibuya
Bow String: 16/18 strand Majesty (R.Young)
Arrows: Nav 610,Fatboys 500 27"

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Far out, man. Get used to it. Variable recticule iris to match red zone at 20 to 100 yards. Consistancy.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-06, 03:23 PM
CALOR's Avatar
In the Black
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Red Hoyt Helix with H
Sight: SureLoc Quest-X with
Stabilisers: Beiter Long and Twin
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: ACEs

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Location: Cheltenham
Posts: 79
Hi I have posted this elsewhere today but this is the sight pin flying whale is talking about which I have too

Last edited by CALOR; 08-06-06 at 04:12 PM.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-06, 08:18 PM
In the Gold
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Bowtech Allegiance
Sight: CJ Ants 2
Stabilisers: Beiter
Button: Bowtech Allegiance
Bow String: Bowtech
Arrows: Nav FMJ

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I always have the pin out as far as possible (which is quite a long way on the Spig carbon). Strangely enough the only time I ever have to move it back is on a Portsmouth when the gold is too big to get it inside the apperture.
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