![]() |
| |||||||
![]() |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
| ||||
| There is a very cheap item out there that help lining up limbs and buttons called 'Limb alligners'They are from beiter and come in two sizes recurve and compound, with each size having 6 different sizes to accomodate all limbs. you place one on the top and one on the bottom limb, there are guide lines on the alligners to check that the bow /limbs are inline once you have decided that this is so place the arrow on the rest and look down the string you can then adjust the button so that you can only just see your arrow to the left of the string(for right handed) This way you are lining up the arrow with the Bow/limbs not the stabaliser. Just a thought If Hoyt and W& W were to take time to make sure that every riser's bushing was set/glued perfectly straight it would have to be done specially by one person or a machine and then the risers would cost a LOT more to produce. dont forget they are working to supply 'thousands' of bows to a mass market world wide. |
| |||
| An engineering friend of mine said that if the alignment is too difficult/expensive to achieve, then adjusters should be fitted so the user can reach the alignment they require. I can see the merits in that as regards limbs. Long rod holes??? |
| |||||
| Offset longrod Ummmm, I'm puzzled (Ok. Ok that's not unusual for me I know!). The longrod isn't there for you to line up centre shot (or is it?). I though the longrod was to do with resisting torque during the shot. The tolerances are presumably good enough for the longrod to do its job, rather than for it do do a job we think it would be useful for? Perhaps I've just confirmed how puzzled I am? ![]() |
| |||||
| It might be straight - it might not... either way it's pointless - all you need to set centre shot is a couple of pieces of masking tape on the top/bottom limbs marked in the centre (or beiter limb guages), et voila... job done! Now go shoot ![]() |
| |||||
| Quote:
also surely the longer the long rod the more offset it will appear to be??
__________________ grab a fist full of bow, a hand full of arrow and keep fighting. |
| |||||
| Quote:
|
| |||
| Using the long rod, as an easy guide to centre shot position, is fine so long as you know where the long rod is in relation to true centre shot (or your version of true) If the error is on the longrod itself, an extra twist when fitting it could upset the whole alignment process.If I was seriously into getting centre shot, I would do the best tuning I could and then record the distance from the arrow on the rest to a place on the bow that is easy to use as a reference. I used to cut a piece of arrow tube, that would just fit between arrow rest and sight window and used that as a gauge. |
| |||||
| Two points really. (for a recurve) Using a long rod for limb alignment is very useful as it's more accurate and you can check alignment at brace height and full draw. Because of the short distance between the string and your riser aligment marks (beiter gauges, masking tape whatever) the limited parallax means you can be a significant way out even though by eye everything looks aligned. Depends how fussy you are. Outside of group tuning where an optimised centre shot position, button spring etc. combination is found by trial and error, centre shot position is arbitrary so there is no need to accurately determine the physical bow "centre shot". So using the long rod for this is pointless. Just offsetting the arrow with respect to the string (aligned to riser reference points) is sufficient.
__________________ Joe |
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|