Choosing Arrows

[PorlyP]

hiya,

Today I'm looking to learn as much as possible about arrows (for target archery) and making my own, nocks, fletchings, what sizes to use, bow compatibility, etc.

Are Draw Length, bow length and poundage the factors, or are there more to take into consideration?

Do any of you have a resource or any links I could check out please?

Gracias!

[joetapley]

Two main (free) resources:
Murray's Reference Guide: http://www.archersreference.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/download.html

Also Easton have lots of free charts and software for arrow selection:
http://www.eastonarchery.com

[PorlyP]

Wicked, thanks Joe!

Time for the science bit

Am I the only one who loves learning new stuff?

Originally Posted by PorlyP

hiya,

Today I'm looking to learn as much as possible about arrows (for target archery) and making my own, nocks, fletchings, what sizes to use, bow compatibility, etc.

Are Draw Length, bow length and poundage the factors, or are there more to take into consideration?

Do any of you have a resource or any links I could check out please?

Gracias!

Oh blimy, lots of info to pass on here. I will try and keep it short.

What matters when selecting arrow spine...

1. The draw weight you have on your fingers when at full draw. You need a bow scale for this. Or you can guess, by adding or subtracting 2lb for any 1" difference between a 28" draw length. eg, a 34lb drawn to 28" will give 34lb on your fingers, a 34lb bow drawn to 30" will give 38lb's on your fingers. This is only an estimate. A good bowscale is the only way to know properly.

2. Arrow length is measured from the nock groove to the end of the shaft, NOT the end of the pile or end of the nock.

3. Arrow length and draw length are not related when choosing spine. When you settle down into archery your draw length should always be the same, however, arrow length can ge anything you like as long as the arrrows stay on the rest at full draw. But you must take arrow length into consideration when selecting spine. The longer they are the stiffer the spine needs to be. The easton spine charts are the best source of info on this and there is a down load for a computerised selection chart on the easton web site. Check it out here

Simply decide what draw weight you are, type in the arrow lenghth and read from the chart for all of the easton range of arrow types.

4. The point weight can influence the amount the arrow bends. A heavy point will produce a weaker arrow than a lighter point fitted to the same spine shaft. Don't worry about this too much just now, it's more a fine tuning issue anyway.

5. Stick with ali arrows for now, such as Jazz or XX75's.

I'm sure you will get lots more info on this subject, try not to get confused with information overload...

[Rik]

Originally Posted by PorlyP

hiya,

Today I'm looking to learn as much as possible about arrows (for target archery) and making my own, nocks, fletchings, what sizes to use, bow compatibility, etc.

Are Draw Length, bow length and poundage the factors, or are there more to take into consideration?

Do any of you have a resource or any links I could check out please?

Gracias!

I assume you've already got the Archer's Reference?

To use the arrow selection charts, you need 2 pieces of information:
Your shaft length (not draw length, or the total length of the arrow, but measured from the place where to nock meets the string, to the end of the tube).
Your draw weight (not the bow weight, but the actual weight you hold at full draw).

Easton selection charts are available in their catalogue, here, and they also have some (fairly basic) software, to try and automate the process a little. The catalogue also has some notes (fine print) on how to use the charts, which are worth reading, even if you only ever use the software.

[PorlyP]

Originally Posted by rgsphoto

Oh blimy, lots of info to pass on here. I will try and keep it short.

What matters when selecting arrow spine...

1. The draw weight you have on your fingers when at full draw. You need a bow scale for this. Or you can guess, by adding or subtracting 2lb for any 1" difference between a 28" draw length. eg, a 34lb drawn to 28" will give 34lb on your fingers, a 34lb bow drawn to 30" will give 38lb's on your fingers. This is only an estimate. A good bowscale is the only way to know properly.

2. Arrow length is measured from the nock groove to the end of the shaft, NOT the end of the pile or end of the nock.

3. Arrow length and draw length are not related when choosing spine. When you settle down into archery your draw length should always be the same, however, arrow length can ge anything you like as long as the arrrows stay on the rest at full draw. But you must take arrow length into consideration when selecting spine. The longer they are the stiffer the spine needs to be. The easton spine charts are the best source of info on this and there is a down load for a computerised selection chart on the easton web site. Check it out here

Simply decide what draw weight you are, type in the arrow lenghth and read from the chart for all of the easton range of arrow types.

4. The point weight can influence the amount the arrow bends. A heavy point will produce a weaker arrow than a lighter point fitted to the same spine shaft. Don't worry about this too much just now, it's more a fine tuning issue anyway.

5. Stick with ali arrows for now, such as Jazz or XX75's.

I'm sure you will get lots more info on this subject, try not to get confused with information overload...

Thanks rgs, on my training course at the mo I've actually been using some Jazz, and they've done ok so far my friends who've been shooting for a while just got some A/C/Es, but I'll worry more about actually getting any once I have a bow.

For now, it's all about learning how it all works, so as I progress there won't be any surprises, forewarned is forearmed, after all

[PorlyP]

I have now, thanks Rik!

Will take a look at the Easton stuff a bit later, thanks again for that, should help me out a lot!

[wingate_52]

Get someone at your club, or at the shop to measure the bow weight with a good scale. I find the Easton charts a good start. Don't forget the junior charts if you shoot short arrows. Small fletches ( I have 4" ones on my indoor arrows, but they don't have to reach the target at 100 yards) A decent fletching jig. A white glue stick and a heat source and non marking pliers to hold the hot points for insertion. Have fun.

[clickerati]

Wow. Excellent thread. Great info.

[PorlyP]

I thought I'd ask the question this way, as that way people don't have to type out loads if they don't want to

Sky Blue Flights are dang hard to find! Might have to go Black and White!