Back Tension

[radsbow]

How do you know if you are getting back tension right?</p>

I mean are there any tell tale signs that I could/should be looking for when executing correct back tension - like cleaner release etc.</p>

No coach at the club, well there are, but none that know about back tension, so am trying to self coach through books and forums. I've managed to gain 106 points on a York round in#about a month, but my goal is Bowman class by the end of September and I'm looking for everything I can do to gain the 60 points that I'm short presently.</p>

All help greatly appreciated.</p>

[TJ Mason]

A good indicator is where your drawing hand goes after release. If it flaps outwards ("the Hello release", as I've heard it called), then you're probably using arm muscles rather than back muscles. If the hand remains at the anchor point then you're probably not using back tension -- at least not properly. The hand should come several inches backwards and behind the neck, and perhaps downwards.

You can get perfectly good results without using back tension, but chances are that your consistency will then suffer in the later parts of a long round.

[JohnM]

Another good indicator, in combination with the drawing hand mentioned above, is that the bow arm, if you're shooting right-handed, will go slightly to the left upon release - if you're shooting lefty (like me), it will go to the right - you shouldn't consciously focus on doing this - it should naturally happen, and is more of a "feel." Virtually every time I hit gold I notice this action and "feel" a good shot...in trying to explain how it feels, I guess it should feel like your shoulder blades are continuing to come together upon the release of the arrow...it's only a millisecond, but definitely noticeable.

[Little Miss Purple]

The coach at St. Ives told us last week that when you are at full draw your elbow should still be moving backwards (fractionally), when you do this you can feel it in your back - it also forces your fingers to relax and release the string smoothly.

[Furface]

Try using a "Formaster" or similar. If you are using your back muscles, it will feel the same, and you will be able to draw properly. If not, then you will struggle to draw, but at least you will then have the equipment to practice with.
It is almost impossible to coach yourself in this fine detail - you need someone to observe everything and work with you. If you are not confident in the coaches at your club, then get in touch with your County coaching officer who will be able to suggest others at nearby clubs (yes, there are some!)

[Barry C]

The best set of back muscles to use is the large set located between the tip of the scapula and the spine. The easiest way I have found to use these is to draw with the bow pointing down at 45 degrees, with the a high draw elbow, then bring the elbow up and back. If it is done right your scapula should stick out of your back, you can then squeeze the large muscle to bring the draw scapula down and in, while putting full pressure into the bow arm. I will attach a photo I took of my brother after I taught him this technique. </p>

Now I have mastered the back I have a big problem collapsing with my bow shoulder. If I align it before the shot I cant use the back effectively and end up using the# less efficient muscles between the upper scapula, it looks like a crease in my back, which is bad. As soon as I can mix the stable bow shoulder with the back I will rule the world! </p>

I highly reccomend you buy Total Archery. It is explained in detail there. Together with the draw - holding transfer phase and expansion. It is thought bad to continue pulling as you need to effectively stop in order to transfer the bow weight into the important muscles before the push pull. Maybe Marcus can chip in and add his wisdom.</p>

[radsbow]

Thank you to all that replied. I now have food for thought and something new to try out today.</p>

Barry C - do you use a pre-draw? I think my form is more of a classical T Form. I raise my bow arm and draw straight back, without any pause, to my anchor. My draw arm is low.</p>

I had previously used a high draw and let my bow drop onto gold/ yellow as I came to anchor then loosed, but had a club coach (I think) tell me not to do that as it was a movement not needed -#dropping on to yellow. So he tried to get me to aim at the yellow all through my draw. Did't like so didn't do it, but seemed to have lost/moved to a low arm draw, if you understand what I mean.</p>

[KevinH]

Hummm, just to be a bit of a devils advocate;

After much reading of books and self-coaching I used to shoot using the muscles and technique Barry has described. I felt I was doing pretty well too. Then at the beginning of this year I attended some performance clinics organised by our local coaching group. I was shown ( with the aid of video ) that my hand came back and down on release. The coach took some time convincing me ( no easy task ) that I would get a cleaner release and consequently better groups if I could make my hand come straight back or slightly up. In making this change it was necessary to change the back muscles I was using, to include muscles higher in the back. Guess what after many weeks work making the change, my groups improved significantly, just like the coach said !!!

[Barry C]

radsbow - 5/8/2005 9:20 AM

Thank you to all that replied. I now have food for thought and something new to try out today.</p>

Barry C - do you use a pre-draw? I think my form is more of a classical T Form. I raise my bow arm and draw straight back, without any pause, to my anchor. My draw arm is low.</p>

I had previously used a high draw and let my bow drop onto gold/ yellow as I came to anchor then loosed, but had a club coach (I think) tell me not to do that as it was a movement not needed -#dropping on to yellow. So he tried to get me to aim at the yellow all through my draw. Did't like so didn't do it, but seemed to have lost/moved to a low arm draw, if you understand what I mean.</p>

</p>

Trying to hold the sight on gold all through the draw will create a lot of tension. Mant people start with the sight above gold, draw and it will just come down. If you start with a low draw the pin comes up anyway. Just dont feel like you are fighting it, it should feel natural and easy. Ki Sik Lee said it doesnt matter how you get to full draw, so long as you have the correct form and muscle group engauged. </p>

Take the Initial draw with the back of#your shoulder then use the elbow then transfer to the back. Its much less of a weight then.</p>

Many british#coaches do not appreciate back tension and or biomechanics at all, even at county level. I have seen books effectively telling the Koreans they are doing it all wrong. However I will side with the technique called correct by scientisits and the words great shooters.</p>

It is reccomended to draw down to your neck then bring up your hand and draw arm parallel#to anchor, This will help you engauge the correct muscle group especially if you start with a high draw. I have a video clip I can email you if you wish of the current world chapion who has a very noticable form that demonstrates this well.</p>

Sometimes you just need the confidence to tell a coach they are no help and are teaching you outdated innefective form, a wise skill to learn usually </p>

[Barry C]

There is a great thread on back tension in Archery Forum.</p>

http://www.archery-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=90416&amp;postdays=0&amp;postorder =asc&amp;start=0</p>