Stabilisers and when to use them - Page 3

Dooky · #21 (**permalink**) 25-10-06, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoobArcher

I'be literally only just started, and only just got my own kit. I shoot recurve and have had a few surprised expressions when people see i shoot without a long rod or V bars.....at what stage would people suggest i start using these and why?

http://www.tenzone.u-net.com/Equipme...fs/stab4a4.pdf
I guess this answers the "Why", the "when" is up to you and your pocket.
I shoot for about 6months without stabilizers and my main motivation for get a long-rod was that I was getting tired of the top limb rotating and hitting me on the head.

Orinoco · #22 (**permalink**) 26-10-06, 11:25 AM

Trouble with this kind of thread is it suddenly makes me start thinking about what my bow is doing!

I use a finger sling and I guess that If I could do some funky high speed video you'd see the bow move forwards on release, hit the sling and then drop away.

Indeed Madmac I bought my Apollo then sold my Beiter on eBay. K'ching.

Incidentally has anyone else noticed people buying used stuff on eBay more expensively (word?) than you can get it new at a "reputable" archery supplier. Particularly compound scopes. Probably a whole nuther thread in that one.

Schme1440 · #23 (**permalink**) 26-10-06, 12:09 PM

IMHO Stabalisers are nessacery on any bow with the approriate thread to attach stabaliser. But it is only nessacery to have them on to counter the back ward motion of the bow. Beginners should use stabalisers but only basic setups like wht I will now try to explain.

The stabalisers should be setup (weather you use side rods or not) to stop the top limb tilting towards you and hitting you on the head.

A good example is if you put a rod on your bow and hold the bow in your hand. Dont grip the bow just balance it in your hand as if you was going to shoot. Dont hold the sting either. If the bow does not tilt towards you then you have a good start for your stabaliser setup. That is all you need your stabaliser to do.

Once you start to improve or feel it should react different then you can play around with other setups but what I have just explained (hopefully you understood it) is all you need it to do to start with.

If you check out my Youtube vids (via my hompage on my profile) then you will see different setups makeing the bow react differently. These are more advanced setups and cant ake some time to get right.

NoobArcher · #24 (**permalink**) 26-10-06, 02:49 PM

without any stabilisers at all, i did what you suggested and the top limb doesn;t hit me on the head......

Schme1440 · #25 (**permalink**) 26-10-06, 02:52 PM

With or with out the rod did it not tilt towards you. Remeber you cant be gripping the bow. It must only rest in you hand and be free to move. If you curl your fingers round the grip or "pinch" the grip between your finger and thumb then it wont work.

kato · #26 (**permalink**) 26-10-06, 03:22 PM

in order of importance, I think stabs should

1] help you obtain a steady aim [can't hit what you can't aim at]
2] minimise unwanted movements upon release [torque, kicks wtc]
3]damp vibrations [shot feels better, stuff doesn't shake loose on your bow]

and while personal preference as regards to type of rod [multi rod, carbon longrod, ally/carbon etc] is certainly legit, when it comes to the actual configuration, accepted wisdom [as evidenced by every shooting line at all high level competitions]suggests extender, vbar and longrod is best at achieving all the above.

imho

jaarus · #27 (**permalink**) 26-10-06, 08:09 PM

Longrod is a must.
Made a huge amount of difference IMHO - really makes the bow more stable.
And you can buy a cheap carbon for £15 to see how you get on with it.

Twins is personal choice, flat or down angle, multi or parallel etc etc

I shot with just a longbow for about 2 months before deciding to try out twins.
I bought some pretty cheap ACCs - and I do appear to be shooting better but who knows if its because of em or not
(but my bow looks cool....er....um...

)