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| Hi Adrian, The way you measured yourself for arrow length is OK but it might be worth drawing a bow and checking again.Seeing the archer draw a bow can help settle the true draw length and help you establish a sound draw length.31-34" seems a bit of a wide range to me and it would be better for you to find a closer range by being watched. As a rule of thumb, a 30lb bow would weigh 30lb at 28 inches but nearer 38lb at 34" so again, knowing what the weight feels like when you are at a good draw length would be better than guessing. My advice would be to go to an archery shop and let them watch you shooting. Get advice on a sound draw length and then select a bow weight that is comfortable for you. You will be shooting lots of arrows at a club so you need to be able to handle the weight all through the session; not just a dozen arrows.The bow will be 70" I suspect at least and knowing your draw length will help get the right arrows to match the bow of your choice. What price bow you choose is not so easy to advise. Most will choose something they can easily sell on as most archers, who stick in the sport, upgrade after a year or two.After that time, they are much better at selecting what they want from their more expensive bow.(or they should be) Ideal weight is almost impossible to guess at.I think that is: test some and know for certain that you can manage the weight you choose. |
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| Hi Geoff Thanks a bunch, most helpful. I had a feel that I might have to go down the road you suggested, but hearing it from experienced archers first hand is always re-assuring. ![]() :cheers: Adrian |
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| Hi Adrian, Welcome! I see that you are from Basingstoke which is teriffic news Will you be shooting field or target? If target, I can recommend Old Basing Archers (I'm not biased of course) Any of our club coaches would be more than pleased to assist and provide recommendations. our website is: www.oldbasingarchers.co.uk Cheers, Robin | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Hi Robin I had looked at Old Basing a few months ago, but due to lack of contact from a secretary at the time, and my work commitments I've not followed it up since. Thanks for the heads up though, and the link. I'll be sure to look into it again. For me I hate going to a club 'Cold calling' so to speak, as I feel more comfortable with meeting somebody I've initially made contact with. I'm sure to call at some point though, as yes I am looking at Target Archery, and ulitimate goal of competitions etc. Adrian ![]() |
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| Hi Adrian, I can understand what you mean about 'cold calling'. It takes a lot of pluck! I'm at the field most Saturday mornings and would be most happy to meet you and introduce you to the eclectic bunch that are known as OBA . Just let me know if you feel like giving it a go sometime.Cheers, Robin | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Robin Thanks for your kind offer, I'll be happy to drop by. I was thinking this Saturday if your available? Drop me a private message so we can discuss at your liesure. Cheers Adrian |
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| As always Geoff`s in there with exactly the right advice (go geoff go )one of the most popular risers at the moment is the Eclipse from Hoyt although they seem to have disappeared from the line up of the 2007 catalogue ![]() however you may still find some floating about if they take your interest ![]()
__________________ "Where`s the CUSTARD |
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| Hi Adrian, Looks like you have folks to look after you in your local area, which is great; by far the best way to measure draw length, bow length, ideal draw weight etc. is to try it hands-on with the proper measuring tools - a lot of clubs have these - and with an experienced archer watching! On the off-chance that you need to find your draw-length on your own, I've found this method helpful and (in my case) perfectly accurate: http://www.huntersfriend.com/draw-length-weight.htm I'm in a similar situation - travelling 5 hours to my "local" archery shop to buy my first bow next week! The most highly recommended entry level risers are Hoyt Gold Medalist (GM for short), Hoyt Eclipse, Winstar 2, and Samick Agulla, all between 90-130 GBP depending on where you buy. Luckily I can try everything but the Samick at my local shop; however be warned: if you want a Hoyt, the GM and the Eclipse are both discontinued in 2007, and will only be sold while stocks last! I can't say much about limbs: our shop is really limited for choice (it's impractical & expensive to have every brand in every possible length & weight in stock), but I have seen KAP Challenger Carbon limbs (wood/carbon) recommended by other stores as good value. I have also seen KAP Challenger Craft limbs (wood/fibreglass) recommended as affordable entry-level, but people seem to be happy to be rid of them as soon as they can. A lot of folks here on AIUK have been raving about Sebastien Flute "Super High-tech Carbon" limbs (SF SHC), which are foam/carbon but surprisingly not much more expensive. I will definitely second the recommendation (don't remember who - there were probably several) to visit a shop in person and try before you buy! Even if it means a 5-hour train ride... Best of luck!
__________________ Good judgement is a result of experience; experience is often the result of bad judgement. |
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| Hi Russ Thanks for the link. Yet another theory to try....lol But honestly thanks for the help...All well received ![]() I'll be getting my kit in the new year, after trying various options in the coming weeks. Unless Santa brings me a Riser, I can always get my limbs later..lol Adrian
__________________ Rules are for the obedience of fools and guidance of wise men. |
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