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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 08-11-06, 06:08 PM
Shirt's Avatar
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Tiller is easy. Pick a small number or zero, whichever you like the look of, and leave the thing alone once it's set at that.

There's a reason that articles on tiller tuning are written by people like Simon Needham - it's not that he's an Einstein-level genius and it took a team of mathematicians to figure it out, it's because he's a bloody good archer and it's only at his sort of level that you might notice any difference...
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 08-11-06, 06:17 PM
Kae's Avatar
Kae Kae is offline
An Oxymoron
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Riser: Green Fusion Hoyt Helix
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Sight: Shibuya Ultima
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Button: Shibuya DX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirt View Post
Tiller is easy. Pick a small number or zero, whichever you like the look of, and leave the thing alone once it's set at that.

There's a reason that articles on tiller tuning are written by people like Simon Needham - it's not that he's an Einstein-level genius and it took a team of mathematicians to figure it out, it's because he's a bloody good archer and it's only at his sort of level that you might notice any difference...

Very true, and thats a pretty fair comment for all but the most basic tuning.
Even at my level I can still feel a big difference when the Tiller is changed. (It doesn't make any difference to the arrow that I have noticed, only to bow reaction).
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 08-11-06, 06:43 PM
In the White
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Excellent, thanks for all the help, some of the books make it a bit complicated than it actually is. I'll set my tiller tonight. cheers
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 08-11-06, 08:19 PM
WhitehartFB's Avatar
It's an X
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kae View Post
Very true, and thats a pretty fair comment for all but the most basic tuning.
Even at my level I can still feel a big difference when the Tiller is changed. (It doesn't make any difference to the arrow that I have noticed, only to bow reaction).
Very true but once the tiller is set (3-4mm difference) any further adjustments can be made to the nocking point like they had to in the old days and possibly the reason you can feel the difference when you change the tiller if you do not re set the nocking point.
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 08-11-06, 09:15 PM
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Kae Kae is offline
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Riser: Green Fusion Hoyt Helix
Limbs: Border TXG's 54#
Sight: Shibuya Ultima
Stabilisers: Doinker Rod & Twins
Button: Shibuya DX
Bow String:
Arrows: ACE 520's

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Traditional Script currently under construction
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitehart View Post
Very true but once the tiller is set (3-4mm difference) any further adjustments can be made to the nocking point like they had to in the old days and possibly the reason you can feel the difference when you change the tiller if you do not re set the nocking point.
The difference I find is not in the nocking point (which I check after each adjustment/regularly) but in the way the bow feels in the hand. But yes, I can see where you are coming from, if the nocking point wasn't changed then this could also make a difference.
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-11-06, 10:03 PM
Random_guy's Avatar
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I think (as with most things about tuning) providing that the tuning, and in this case the tiller are *approximatley* right, then it won't make the blindest bit of difference to your shooting unless you're shooting very high numbers. If, on the other hand, it's waaaaay out, then even those that aren't quite at that level yet will experience difficulties. Having said that i shot my Fita pb with my tiller 30mm out, because the adjustment system on my top limb pocket was broken, and didn't notice till the next day when i noticed the crazy shape of the limbs!
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