Beiter Centralizer Tuning

[Stylisht]

I had heard rumour that to tune a Centralizer easily, you could undo the tuners just slightly, but not so much as they slip and slide around, then if you shot say 50 arrows, the tuners would vibrate to their optimum position.

Sounds very romantic to me... ie a load of crap. Anyone tried it? Or got another way to find best position for tuners?

[BowSurfer]

Originally Posted by Stylisht

I had heard rumour that to tune a Centralizer easily, you could undo the tuners just slightly, but not so much as they slip and slide around, then if you shot say 50 arrows, the tuners would vibrate to their optimum position.

Sounds very romantic to me... ie a load of crap. Anyone tried it? Or got another way to find best position for tuners?

When I added an extra tuner I sent an email to Beiter and they sent me the correct nominal positions for the tuners - albeit the measurements they gave didn't actually match the length of the rod - about half an inch short as I recall, but good enough. When I came to adjust the existing ones I had to take them right off because the rubber inserts were firmly stuck to the carbon rods - I don't know how freely they would move unless very slack. On the other hand my additional tuner is a simple Cartel rubber block - no screws involved, but I don't think it has moved of its own accord.

[Kae]

Can't see this happening really.
I had the same experience when adjusting Muttley's longrod (oo er).
The rubber pads were squished onto the carbon and almost had to be peeled away before I could move them.

Kae.

[buzz lite beer]

Originally Posted by Stylisht

I had heard rumour that to tune a Centralizer easily, you could undo the tuners just slightly, but not so much as they slip and slide around, then if you shot say 50 arrows, the tuners would vibrate to their optimum position.

Sounds very romantic to me... ie a load of crap. Anyone tried it? Or got another way to find best position for tuners?

Think this method of multi-rod set up was solely advised for the Carbo-fast range of long rods, I had a set, an even then if you had a three "tuner" rod initially equally spaced (10") my findings would end up with two heading together a little over a foot from the bow side and one traversing the length of the rod till it got to within four inches from the very end. It looked crap and shot crap, set mine with progressivly increased distances between tuners as it looked much nicer but still shot crap.

[JohnK]

The official advice from Beiter is to tune your rods like this:

1. Try all the combinations of lengths, tuner numbers and so on that you can find.

2. Pick the set up that works best.

3. Leave the tuners where they are.

[buzz lite beer]

I know people have stated that Beiter Rods can be adjusted to reduce group sizes, I personally believe this is due to optimising stability and balance rather than anything to do with harmonics - resonance etc, that adjustment will reduce post arrow on string noise (dampening) to some degree but the arrow has left the bow long before these vibrations are heard or felt in the riser to have any effect that will reduce groups, the harsh sounds/large vibrations start after the limbs have travelled as far forward as they go and no longer has an arrow on the string

[Stretch]

Originally Posted by buzz lite beer

Think this method of multi-rod set up was solely advised for the Carbo-fast range of long rods, I had a set, an even then if you had a three "tuner" rod initially equally spaced (10") my findings would end up with two heading together a little over a foot from the bow side and one traversing the length of the rod till it got to within four inches from the very end. It looked crap and shot crap, set mine with progressivly increased distances between tuners as it looked much nicer but still shot crap.

YUP! Once again spot on - tried to rep you again but it won't let me. Very funny, very accurrate.

Beiter rods are interesting and fun to play with (as long as you have a power screwdriver/drill and an appropriate bit) but ultimately I think you can achieve the same thing a lot quicker with traditional stabs. I always end up shooting them at factory spacing the only decision is 3 or 4 tuners (37" rod) and end weight or cap. Cap = the Beiter way. End weight = the way people are winning stuff with them (Alison W excepted ) The original prototypes were about 30" maybe 33" and had a twin weight stack. (And the carbon rods still had AFC Exacta logos on them )

The one reason for going Beiter is that the vibration damping (at least in my setup) is very good when balanced right. So if you have any physical damage in your bow arm ( like for example nerve damage in the elbow ) they can help to keep you shooting (If you should want to do so - after receiving medical advice yadda yadda yadda)

YMMV

Stretch

[Stylisht]

Muchos Cheers, just wondered if there was a better way than fiddling... I thought the aim of archery was to have a pretty sounding bow?

No?

Oops.

[martin]

As long as the limbs close down smoothly when you release the arrow, you can have them however you like. I've actually taken three of the tuners out of my Beiter long rod and it still shoots a treat.

Mind you, IMO you could screw a tent pole into the front of a Stylist Supreme and it would still shoot smoothly.

[Stylisht]

Originally Posted by big_bloke_with_a_stylist

As long as the limbs close down smoothly when you release the arrow, you can have them however you like. I've actually taken three of the tuners out of my Beiter long rod and it still shoots a treat.

Mind you, IMO you could screw a tent pole into the front of a Stylist Supreme and it would still shoot smoothly.

Oh hell yes. The sound is beeaaauutiful!