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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 15-01-07, 02:19 PM
Gracie's Avatar
In the Green
  • Recurve
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Setup
Riser: Spigarelli Explorer 23"
Limbs: SF SHC
Sight: Something el cheapo!
Stabilisers: Arten and Cartel
Button: Shibuya DX
Bow String: Fastflight
Arrows: 1512 x7s

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Keeping your sight on the gold whilst drawing

My usual routing consists of starting with my bow arm out with the sight aimed on the gold, as soon as I start drawing backwards the aim goes lower.

I've heard that a lot of people just keep aiming at the gold the whole way through, or others start slightly higher (red ish) and come down onto the gold. I seem to have a lot of travel (i.e. at 20yds if I start on the gold, by the time I'm at full draw I'm aiming at the bottom of the boss!!). It feels very uncomfortable keeping it on the gold all through the draw and I have been getting to almost full draw and then moving the aim upwards (then sometimes I have issues "finding" the gold and staying there). I guess it's prob not the best technique as I must be drawing backwards and upwards even though it feels like I'm going straight back.

Am wondering if anyone else does this? Or maybe could suggest tips for lessening it.
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 15-01-07, 02:23 PM
Schme1440's Avatar
It's an X
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Setup
Riser: Luxor 27"
Limbs: Inno Power 48#
Sight: Bernardini Freedom
Stabilisers: Posten Nation!
Button: Black Beiter
Bow String: BCY8125 Yellow
Arrows: X10 450 w Socx

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Example, If you aim on gold and at full draw the sight moves to bottom of the boss, try aiming at the top of the boss at the start and the sight should come down to the gold. Alternatively discuss with fellow archers and/or coaches on how to adapt your technique to achive a stable draw.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 15-01-07, 02:26 PM
napolienne's Avatar
In the Gold
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Setup
Riser: Riptide Nexus 23"
Limbs: Hex5-H 41# on fingers
Sight: Shibuya
Stabilisers: Beiter
Button: Shibuya DX
Bow String: Majesty
Arrows: ACE 780 25", 100gr points

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Moving your aim upwards at full draw is hard work. Its easier to go with gravity and let the sight ring drop down onto the gold - ie start at predraw with the ring above it. I'd suggest you give it a go.

Has anyone watched you to see where your drawing elbow is at full draw? Or indeed throughout the shot? And how do you find the weight of your bow in the hand (weight weight, not draw weight)?
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 15-01-07, 02:29 PM
TJ Mason's Avatar
Off on one
  • Recurve
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Setup
Riser: Hoyt Axis
Limbs: G3s
Sight: Dual Click+Titan Rec
Stabilisers: MAC Active Balance
Button: Beiter
Bow String: D75 16 strands
Arrows: Nav 610

Setup
Bow: Merlin TM5
String & Cables: D75
Sight: Shibuya Ultima
Stabs: Beiter
Scope: Beiter 39mm
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This might indicate that the bottom limb of your bow is much stronger than the top limb. You could try winding the top limb in further to make it stronger it or winding the bottom limb out further to reduce its strength.

I suggest you measure the static tiller, i.e.:
  • measure the distance from the string to the point where the top limb goes into the pocket
  • measure the distance from the string to the point where the bottom limb goes into the pocket
If the difference is more than about 8mm, that would explain the bow pulling downwards. I prefer to have these two measurements the same, or within a millimetre.
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 15-01-07, 02:35 PM
In the Black
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Riser:
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Sight: Guess
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sighting or aiming

Have you tried sighting on the gold and then as you reach full draw bringing in the sight ring onto the gold and then aiming. I know it sounds weird but it can help bybfocusing on the gold and then moving the aim into focus.

smog
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 15-01-07, 02:41 PM
dino1300's Avatar
In the Red
  • Recurve
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Setup
Riser: Hoyt Elan
Limbs: WinEx
Sight: Shibuya
Stabilisers: Beiter + AGF
Button: Shibuya
Bow String: 8150
Arrows: ACE 470

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The culprit looks very much like tiller, as was said above. Get a coach / experienced archer / manual to help.
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 15-01-07, 02:47 PM
Gracie's Avatar
In the Green
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Spigarelli Explorer 23"
Limbs: SF SHC
Sight: Something el cheapo!
Stabilisers: Arten and Cartel
Button: Shibuya DX
Bow String: Fastflight
Arrows: 1512 x7s

Setup
Bow:
String & Cables:
Sight:
Stabs:
Scope:
Launcher/Rest:
Arrows:
Release Aid:
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Loughborough
Posts: 6

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I have gone through this problem with the coaches at our club before. Usually they just say the draw looks fine, say how wonderful my release is (nice to know, but not overly helpful) and then start tackling my creepy draw length. I have tried starting at the top of the boss, but am afraid that I may be starting with my bow at too much of an angle upwards. I was told to try aiming at the red/blue area above the gold which still results in me pointing downwards by full draw. Was told that I need to practice on the draw to get more familiar with the feel (as I had changed from something even more bizarre previously) and that it would sort it - 6 months later and it's pretty much the same.

Weight weight isn't usually an issue (unless I've missed a couple of weeks of practice).

Think I will have a play in the garden and get my husband to watch and possibly try videoing to see for myself if it looks odd (I did try in front of a mirror once, but everytime I turned my head to look then I changed position )
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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 15-01-07, 02:47 PM
Murray's Avatar
Unqualified meddler
  • Recurve
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Setup
Riser: 25" Win&Win NX Xpert
Limbs: 38# Medium W&W Winex
Sight: Shibuya Ultima
Stabilisers: W&W Fomax
Button: Shibuya DX
Bow String: 8125
Arrows: ACE 670s

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Could be the way you do your pre-draw or (as above) tiller, alternatively could be a form issue (subconciously dropping your arm/raising your shoulder as you draw back and increase the weight, shifting the weight on your feet, moving your hips back). You really need a coach/friendly experienced archer to assist.

And napolienne - I'm afraid I disagree that moving your aim upwards at full draw is hard work. It's only hard work for some, personally I find it very easy to move the aim in any direction. If it's hard work, then I suspect your bow is WAAAAY too heavy or you've got too much tension in the wrong muscles.

[edit: posted at the same time! Video is a good idea...]
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 15-01-07, 02:52 PM
napolienne's Avatar
In the Gold
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Riptide Nexus 23"
Limbs: Hex5-H 41# on fingers
Sight: Shibuya
Stabilisers: Beiter
Button: Shibuya DX
Bow String: Majesty
Arrows: ACE 780 25", 100gr points

Setup
Bow:
String & Cables:
Sight:
Stabs:
Scope:
Launcher/Rest:
Arrows:
Release Aid:
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Oxford
Posts: 1,114

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murray View Post
And napolienne - I'm afraid I disagree that moving your aim upwards at full draw is hard work. It's only hard work for some, personally I find it very easy to move the aim in any direction. If it's hard work, then I suspect your bow is WAAAAY too heavy or you've got too much tension in the wrong muscles.

[edit: posted at the same time! Video is a good idea...]
Oops sorry. I meant harder work than letting gravity do it for you. Is a simplification - but to lift something up is harder than dropping it. Dropping the sight onto the gold is a similar (but much more controlled) thing. Personally, anyway.
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 15-01-07, 02:56 PM
Murray's Avatar
Unqualified meddler
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: 25" Win&Win NX Xpert
Limbs: 38# Medium W&W Winex
Sight: Shibuya Ultima
Stabilisers: W&W Fomax
Button: Shibuya DX
Bow String: 8125
Arrows: ACE 670s

Setup
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String & Cables:
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Scope:
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Release Aid:
Traditional Script currently under construction
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Ah, ok, agreed... yes it's hard-er (slightly)
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