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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-05, 05:46 PM
Field Archer's Avatar
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No problem, this is what the forum is all about.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tel
Sorry to go on - but with this method do you use heat (presumably a nylon thread? any recommendations?) and glue, or does one replace the other?
To be honest, I have never tried burning the end because not all threads will melt, some will just burn. I use superglue as I mentioned earlier.

I use fairly thin serving thread, button thread will work just as well, but you can't pull it as tight because it will break.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-05, 06:37 PM
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Riser: Hoyt UltraElite 2008
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I just use heat, no glue.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-05, 06:44 PM
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I'm planning on being around long enough to try more than one method, so thanks everyone for all for the tips
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Last edited by tel; 04-11-05 at 06:56 AM.
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 05-11-05, 02:44 AM
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I follow the OB one Kanobi method...."Use the floss Luke"

Dental floss makes great (and cheap) nocking points.

Whip it in the bottom nocking point first and shoot a few shafts to make sure you have it in the right place. If it needs to be moved simply cut off the temporary nocking point and start again.

When you are happy, whip the top one on and then gently melt the floss.

I don't think the flavor of floss matters.

The other advantage of floss is that it gets in between the gaps in the serving and grips so it doesn't slip down the serving.

Cheap, quick, easy and reliable....works for me.
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 05-11-05, 07:05 AM
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Quote:
The other advantage of floss is that it gets in between the gaps in the serving and grips so it doesn't slip down the serving.
....and helps prevent plaque presumably

seriously, I have heard of floss being used quite a lot. My only thought was that if you were having a tuning session then its "getting between the gaps" would prevent its easy adjustment. I know it would be relatively simple to tie on another one, but you wouldn't want to be doing it during a session.
A good option once your point is established though (if that ever happens!)
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Old 06-11-05, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Field Archer
Radsbow, that's the same method of tying on nock points that I use. Can't remember where I originally found those pictures.
Those pictures show the same method that Chris (Merlin Bows) uses when making up a string, it works for him & it works for me
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-05, 06:44 PM
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Riser:
Limbs: Hoyt Matrix & 40# G3
Sight: Sureloc Contender X-
Stabilisers: Home made and cartel
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: ACE 720 Beiter in/ou

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Lightbulb

I use a Beiter rest which allows for some nocking height adjustment at the riser, once the string is nocked up its easy to tweek the rest.

After a bit of a problems with spin wings i changed to nornal small vanes and its magic
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-05, 07:01 PM
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Not for human consumption
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Setup
Riser: Purple Merlin Quazar
Limbs: SF Carbon 34 lbs
Sight: Omega Classic
Stabilisers: Cartel carbon
Button: Shibuya DX
Bow String: Angel Majesty
Arrows: ACC 3L-18s, 30ins

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Hmm - interesting. All this discussion about how to tie a nocking point. I've only ever used the little brass ones that clamp onto the string and are quite easily moved if required. This is such a simple method that I am now wondering what (if any) is the perceived advantage of a tied point, wth all the uncertainty of how it should be done ?
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-05, 08:19 PM
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'pparently the little brass ones are frowned upon for several reasons, one of which is speed. How much difference it makes to most of us I wouldn't like to say, but when people that have been around the game for years tell me (just coming up to 1yrs experience) that I should bin the brass and go with a tied knock I have to at least look into it. Believe me, I'm not known for making things difficult for myself unnecessarily
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-05, 08:27 PM
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Third Echelon
  • Recurve
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Setup
Riser: Hoyt Matrix
Limbs: Hoyt 900CX 40#
Sight: Sure-Loc Contender X
Stabilisers: Beiter
Button: Beiter & Arc Systeme
Bow String: SDM BYC8125 18
Arrows: ACE 670/X7 1914 27.5"

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And they leave a rather unsightly scar on your arm if you get a shot wrong and it hits behind your brace.
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