Good enough to be fussy?

[steve58]

I'd be interested in any opinions on when arrows start to be really critical? And how good do you have to be to really notice the difference? My theory is that for a long time the archer is the biggest variable and improvement will come from working on form, physical fitness, attitude etc. I think that at this stage the equipment is perhaps less crucial, provided that the bow is consistent and the arrows reasonably matched to the bow and to one another (I'm thinking of the divisions retailers sell shafts in, eg 40/45). This is prompted by a conversation at a shoot yesterday with someone who had his shafts spine matched to within 1lb and weight matched to within a grain by giving the light ones extra coats of finish. I also spoke to someone who tested a new set by shooting then 20 times at 40 yards and noting where each one landed on the boss each time. Frankly I don't think I'm that good! I can tell when I have built a set that's a bit stiff and spot a rogue shaft that blatantly won't group with the others, but that's about it. To give a context I'll give my PB's for three rounds (I only shoot target at the moment); York, 256; Western, 457; Portsmouth, 454. What experiences have other people had? Did you get to a point where better arrows were the key to the next level? If so when? How did you know?

[dino1300]

If you can shoot a 450+ portsmouth, then you are not too shabby!

Remember which bit goes in the target. To shoot consistently at longer ranges I think you need a good, well matched set of arrows. This does not mean that you need to spend a fortune, just have a number of shafts and shoot them at range until you can identify groups of 6 that group together.

Then you can number and letter the sets i.e. A1 - A6, B1 - B6, etc. Then you can shoot a set of 6, and note where each one lands. Then you may be able to aim 4 at the same spot, 1 slighly high, one slightly low, etc.

[Macbow]

You are right about form/technique and solid practise allows you to stop concentrating on the basics and understand your own shooting style. That's where having someone watch you occasionally is a real benefit as they can point out little form errors you may not have noticed.
But a decent set of arrows is key although shooting trad, especially off the hand or off the shelf, you need to have realistic expectations. I am completely mental when it comes to making matched sets of woods but as long as they are all grouping well at 20 yards a 20-30 grain variation is acceptable in 24 arrows. Even my carbons can be 2-3 grains out depending on how much glue I've used or they may have slightly different nock or smaller feathers.
Static spine testing will get your shafts closely spine matched but individual arrows from a matched set can still fly erratically and need to be fine tuned to the archer.
With carbons I shoot scores I'm happy with but my quest in life is to find the combination of wooden shafts and point weight that is as forgiving to shoot as my carbon express.
I think just having as much consistency as possible gives you confidence and if you are having a bad day you know to look within and not blame your kit.
Carbon arrows make such a difference to me that I am seriously considering quitting competitive archery altogether (because I can't use them in AFB) and getting back to just enjoying myself in the woods.

[alanesq]

I have never managed to notice much effect from matching the spine of arrows, weight does make a big difference though
so for the moment I have taken to just matching my arrows for weight

I am told that spine doesn't matter for heavy warbows any my old longbow was 65lbs at 28" so I wonder if its mostly for lighter bows that spine becomes important ?

I was once given some advice to use different coloured pens to mark where arrows land on the face (i.e. different colour for each arrow) and this will soon show up where each arrow is tending to go
I have not tried this myself yet but it sounds a good idea

[Erika]

I think it's a bit chicken and the egg (I maintain the egg came first!). How can you tell if you are shooting okay and improving if your arrows are so off that you can't hit the side of the barn, standing inside with the doors shut?

It's a constant excuse coming from archers who don't want to spend any money, that they'll get new arrows when they're shooting better. Not realising that they are never going to shoot better with their bent bananas.

I would look at cheap and nasty for the stage at which you can't keep them on the butt at 20m. Once you can do that, upgrade and progress in distance only when you can keep them all on target.

The arrows are actually more vital than the bow (assuming average level gear). So buy good ones and accept the fact that they will need replacing on a regular basis. Buy what you can afford, but don't skimp!!

[English Bowman]

I agree with Erika, if your arrows aren't good, then how do you know if poor results are due to you or the arrows?
I make mine as accurate as possible, and then I know that I've only got myself to blame if I miss. (or the wind, or the sun in my eyes or somebody kicking the stone that I was aiming at etc etc)

Daniel